Wheel weights
- Thread starter patrickg
- Start date
hayden
Veteran Member
I'd be inclined to put all the weights on and never take them off. It doesn't sound like any of your tractoring is weight sensitive (silly thought with a 4610), and I'd be worried about the imbalance of less than three weights. The wobble is one thing, but I'd be more worried about the tractor wanting to move when parked on a flat surface due to uneven wheel weighting. It defies the whole body-at-rest thing and I'd probably get myself into trouble assuming the tractor would want to stay put (I seldom use the parking break and just rely on the HST).
Hayden, I know it seems like if you followed all of the manufacturer's safety rules/comments/suggestions that you couldn't get any useful work done B U T I have trained myself to always set the brakes before exiting the tractor. I do leave it running. If I need to jog the tractor forward or back while hitching an implement, I leave it in low range and can reach in and press the HST pedal foreward or back with my hand. Exercise care so you don't run over yourself! Even at idle, in low range, the engine/HST overpowers thte brakes and moves the tractor. If on level ground, you can leave the brakes off and jog the tractor a bit by grabbing the rear tire (tread gives hand grips) and rocking it a mite.
Since I always set the brake, the tractor isn't going to roll due to unballanced wheel weighting. Silly me, I asked the dealer if it would hop up and down at max speeds with non-symetrical weight installation (1 or 2 weights out of 3) but was reassured that it won't.
Until or unless there is a problem with rutting (let me clalrify that.. problem with making ruts), I will likely leave all the weights on as has been suggested. Looking forward to tractoring with 4 wheels on the ground.
Just the day before yesterday the nearest pond to the house was frozen over till late PM. I cruised over on the tractor and tested the ice with the FEL bucket to break it and note the thickness (early AM). It was about 3/16. As I tried to back away from the water's edge I just spun the rear wheels (nothing on 3PH). Switched to 4x4 mode, same result but spun a rear whees and ONE front wheel. Engaged diff lock and spun 3 wheels with no help.
After three tries I was able to use the FEL to raise the nose of the tractor and shift enough weight to the rear to back away from the water with a little assist from the curl control. For a while I thought I would have to go get my truck with winch to pull tractor away from pond. Even my "industrial" tires with less traction than Ags do pretty good with some weight on them.
Pat
Since I always set the brake, the tractor isn't going to roll due to unballanced wheel weighting. Silly me, I asked the dealer if it would hop up and down at max speeds with non-symetrical weight installation (1 or 2 weights out of 3) but was reassured that it won't.
Until or unless there is a problem with rutting (let me clalrify that.. problem with making ruts), I will likely leave all the weights on as has been suggested. Looking forward to tractoring with 4 wheels on the ground.
Just the day before yesterday the nearest pond to the house was frozen over till late PM. I cruised over on the tractor and tested the ice with the FEL bucket to break it and note the thickness (early AM). It was about 3/16. As I tried to back away from the water's edge I just spun the rear wheels (nothing on 3PH). Switched to 4x4 mode, same result but spun a rear whees and ONE front wheel. Engaged diff lock and spun 3 wheels with no help.
After three tries I was able to use the FEL to raise the nose of the tractor and shift enough weight to the rear to back away from the water with a little assist from the curl control. For a while I thought I would have to go get my truck with winch to pull tractor away from pond. Even my "industrial" tires with less traction than Ags do pretty good with some weight on them.
Pat
OkieG
Veteran Member
Patrick,
This past summer I built a set of rear wheel weights from steel yard scrap and have been evaluating ever since. I believe for general tractoring they noticeably improve traction. However, for Loader work more ballast is needed.
If I recall, the JD loader owners manual suggests something like 700# of ballast on the 3pt. My boxblade doesn't weigh near that, but I welded a small rack on top of the blade to carry suitcase weights to add some extra counterweight.
This helps loader work feel more balanced on my tractor, gives the boxblade more bite when needed and the weight is easily removeable.
OkieG
This past summer I built a set of rear wheel weights from steel yard scrap and have been evaluating ever since. I believe for general tractoring they noticeably improve traction. However, for Loader work more ballast is needed.
If I recall, the JD loader owners manual suggests something like 700# of ballast on the 3pt. My boxblade doesn't weigh near that, but I welded a small rack on top of the blade to carry suitcase weights to add some extra counterweight.
This helps loader work feel more balanced on my tractor, gives the boxblade more bite when needed and the weight is easily removeable.
OkieG
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rf33
Gold Member
Hi Patrick,
I guess I just took that MMM abreviation for granted. And as to the taking the weights on and off, I sure would want an easier way to do to too. I have my tires filled, and have wheel weights, but have never driven this tractor without either. I am pretty sure that I would be in about the same boat with you though without either. As to the exciting part of the tractor with insufficient ballast, I think that I will just leave that "excitement" to you. My life is exciting enough with all four wheels on the ground/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
I guess I just took that MMM abreviation for granted. And as to the taking the weights on and off, I sure would want an easier way to do to too. I have my tires filled, and have wheel weights, but have never driven this tractor without either. I am pretty sure that I would be in about the same boat with you though without either. As to the exciting part of the tractor with insufficient ballast, I think that I will just leave that "excitement" to you. My life is exciting enough with all four wheels on the ground/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Anonymous Poster
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Hi,
I think it is polyurathane foam...had a link on it somewhere but can't find it.
Have my front tires foam filled. Not cheap, but seems cheaper [relatively] as the tire gets bigger. I believe I was quoted $247 per tire to get my rear 12.4x16 tire foam filled. I did not need it for puncture resistance so I went the liquid route. THe fronts $137 for the pair...just for reference. Forget the size...
Bill in Pgh, PA
I think it is polyurathane foam...had a link on it somewhere but can't find it.
Have my front tires foam filled. Not cheap, but seems cheaper [relatively] as the tire gets bigger. I believe I was quoted $247 per tire to get my rear 12.4x16 tire foam filled. I did not need it for puncture resistance so I went the liquid route. THe fronts $137 for the pair...just for reference. Forget the size...
Bill in Pgh, PA
OkieG, Both my box blade and brush hog are Xtreme duty and quite heavy for a 40 HP compact. They make good ballast, especialy the brush hog due to its length/leverage. Due to its size the brush hog is often in the way in anything resembling close quarters. Weighting the box blade for improved penetration and improved ballast action sounds very useful. I'll consider adding a piece of plate on top of the blade that would permit hanging split weights or suitcase weights or custom weights.
I bought a carryall platform a while back but haven't used it yet. One of its uses will be to carry ballast. Not so much leverage but doesn't penalize manuverability much either. My L4610 Kubota is nose heavy with the FEL mounted and nothing on the 3PH.
Pat
I bought a carryall platform a while back but haven't used it yet. One of its uses will be to carry ballast. Not so much leverage but doesn't penalize manuverability much either. My L4610 Kubota is nose heavy with the FEL mounted and nothing on the 3PH.
Pat
Hayden, The foam fill I have in mind is NOT for weight but to prevent flat tires. Once filled they can't deflate and will continue to work till they are worn completely out or really thrashed. It will add some weight but definitely isn't ballast.
There are soundproofing products that are made of lead loaded foam. Lead dust is distributed in the foam. It is usually made up in sheets and sometimes has a thin sheet of lead sandwitched between layers of lead loaded foam. Never heard of it used for anything but soundproofing but if it has no characteristics that would make it unsuitable, it should be useful as ballast as well as flat prevention. The lead is captured in the foam matrix and is not a helath hazard in normal applications. I suppose if the tires got really chewed up you could lose a little lead to the environment. Like the foam fill I am considering, it ISN'T cheap.
Pat
There are soundproofing products that are made of lead loaded foam. Lead dust is distributed in the foam. It is usually made up in sheets and sometimes has a thin sheet of lead sandwitched between layers of lead loaded foam. Never heard of it used for anything but soundproofing but if it has no characteristics that would make it unsuitable, it should be useful as ballast as well as flat prevention. The lead is captured in the foam matrix and is not a helath hazard in normal applications. I suppose if the tires got really chewed up you could lose a little lead to the environment. Like the foam fill I am considering, it ISN'T cheap.
Pat
Anonymous Poster
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HI,
<font color=blue>Hayden, The foam fill I have in mind is NOT for weight but to prevent flat tires. Once filled they can't deflate and will continue to work till they are worn completely out or really thrashed. It will add some weight but definitely isn't ballast.</font color=blue>
Patrickg,
I don't know what kind of foam you have but the stuff in my tires is heavier than calcium cloride and certainly is ballast. Naturally, like you say, its primary function is puncture protection, but the secondary effect is a tire hevier than tires filled 75% with liquid...
I could not believe how heavy my little front tires became when I picked them up after filling...
Bill in Pgh, PA
<font color=blue>Hayden, The foam fill I have in mind is NOT for weight but to prevent flat tires. Once filled they can't deflate and will continue to work till they are worn completely out or really thrashed. It will add some weight but definitely isn't ballast.</font color=blue>
Patrickg,
I don't know what kind of foam you have but the stuff in my tires is heavier than calcium cloride and certainly is ballast. Naturally, like you say, its primary function is puncture protection, but the secondary effect is a tire hevier than tires filled 75% with liquid...
I could not believe how heavy my little front tires became when I picked them up after filling...
Bill in Pgh, PA