TIG welding aluminum

[robs660]

I am a pretty good tig welder on steel, and I am finding aluminum to be really difficult to weld. I have a miller Syncrowave 200 and I am trying to weld on 1/8" aluminum flat stock. I am looking for anyone who can give me some advice so that I stop flying through filler rod and gas and I am running out of scrap to practice on.

Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Need to repair an aluminum roof on my Kubota

 

[DrRick]

i am sure that you are welding using the AC instead of DC current. It also requires only argon gas, not the 25/75 mix. not meaning to step on toes.

 

[moship]

Remember to ball the electrode and to use the correct ones.

The other thing to think about is that it takes a lot more heat to melt through the aluminum oxide layer then it does to melt pure aluminum. Therefore need a lot more heat to get it started and then back off on the pedal.

 

[sizzami]

what type of tungsten are you using they are colored at the end we say red top green top and so on red isnt for alluminum green is if youre using green then by all means ball it if u get gold grey or orange u can use them for any metal and should sharpen them not ball them having said that I agree that you are probably just starting too cold and allowing the work to get too hot

 

[Mechanos]

The metal need to be CLEAN. Get a stainless steel wire brush and write "Aluminum ONLY" on the handle. Do not use this wire brush for anything else except aluminum or it can pick up contaminants that will be deposited on the aluminum you are trying to clean.

I should also note that different alloys of aluminum use different alloy filler rods. Some alloys of aluminum just don't weld very well at all.

 

[Ford tractor]

CLEAN metal is needed. If you are using an abrasive wheel to cut the metal, that can be an issue. The heat forms thick oxide quick. Saw cut, file to bevel.

 

[RoyJackson]

Once the puddle forms, you need to move pretty quickly. With aluminum, you won't have that tight bead ripple that you have with steel.
Also, keep the filler rod close to the arc so it's just on the solid side of melting.
With 1/8th sheet, I suggest you use 1/16th rod.

As Mechanos wrote, some alloys don't weld well. This includes most of the tempered alloys. But I'm going to make and educated guess your roof is a 5xxx or 6xxx series aluminum due to their workability (in forming and stamping).

 

[Wayne_H]

Do you have any pictures and can you tell us your settings? For 1/8" I'd start with 125 amps, AC of course. On my Dynsasty I'd run maybe 100 Hz depending on the type of weld. I use ceriated tungsten all the time (orange) and I use 3/32. On my Dynesty (Invertor) I do not ball the tips, sharpen it at a 20 degree angle or so.

Also, what type of aluminum? With aluminum you need to move WAY faster than with steel. Also, what cup are you using and what is your argon flow set at? If the aluminum if new, I don't wire brush it, the cleaning action of the AC removes the oxydation.

Wayne

 

[robs660]

I am using the green tip electrode with a balled end. I have the amps set to 175 max and was at 60% on the peddle. I am using the same cup and flow that I use for steel and I running 100% argon. The photo was the best I could do. It's strong but ugly and I am not happy with it

 

[Wayne_H]

In my opinion, you are not close enough to the corner, and you are lacking shielding gas. What cup are you using? Are you at 15 CFM or so?How far out is the electrode sticking?

Wayne