getting the blades off

[rdbrumfield]

I too would have laughed if I hadn't seen it for myself. An old timer gave me the hint when I was trying to get a broken stud out of a block. I had drilled and was using an easy-out and it wouldn't budge, even after heat, he shobed that bees wax in and when it cooled it came right out.
Bees wax is what was used to make molds in the days of pyramids.

 

[jima1]

George,

That's a good thought, having broken a left-handed lug on a mid-70s Plymouth /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif you can be sure I won't take your post the wrong way!

Before I go try it, I might as well ask: any KK owners out there who could confirm left-handed threads on blade bolts?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[jima1]

Bird:

Of course you are absolutely right, for any serious work I would expect to move up to something a lot more powerful like the IR2131. But outside of tractor upkeep, my needs are very modest right now. Being new to air tools, I'll use the cheap set to gain some experience and see where that leads before springing for the $200 model /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.

Thanks for your comments!

Jim

 

[OkieG]

Don't be oblivious to the adverse effects of cranking up the psi to coax more performance out of your air tool.

At a local tool warehouse, I was looking at a big (to me) IR 3/4' drive air wrench. I asked the salesman about psi and was surprised to hear that even the "big" tools are mostly rated for use at 90psi. Before becoming a salesman he used to rebuild air tools for a living. He said folks that turn up the psi on their tools is what kept him in business.

Larger air tools may have a higher torque rating, but may require higher air flow (cfm not psi) for optimum performance. A small portable compressor (like mine) generates ample pressure, but the flow is weak for larger tools. It is pitiful with my small sandblaster!

A drop or two of oil each time you use your tools will help them last longer.

Welcome to the world of air tools. Enjoy!

OkieG

 

[jima1]

JimMc:

Thanks for the warning! An experienced friend offered to stop by with his 3/4" air wrench, hopefully between that and the other suggestions it will come off.

Jim

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>He said folks that turn up the psi on their tools is what kept him in business.</font color=blue>

Yep, George, that and failure to add a little air tool oil (preferably after each use), failure to keep oil in the impact mechanism of those that use oil or grease in those that have grease in the impact mechanism, and getting dirt and moisture into the air intake./w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

You may be new enough to the forum to not know that I was in that business for about 3 years; found it to be very interesting and a lot of fun. I don't know of a single 1/2" or 3/4" impact that isn't rated for 90 psi (not to say that such doesn't exist 'cause I ain't seen all of them yet; just most of'em), but a lot of mechanics are running 150 to 175 psi , and if you need that extra power, maybe it's worth a repair or replacement bill now and then./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[beenthere]

I agree and was also amazed when I watched a mechanic prepare an engine block for steam cleaning. After experiencing removal of studs in engine blocks and getting a few that would just twist off, I made a smart remark about how he handled such a problem. He said, just you watch.

He grabbed a torch (acetylene) and heated the studs quickly to almost red, then touched them with a wax candle. He then took a pair of light weight pliers and easily turned the studs out. Truly amazing! The wax seemed to wick right into the threads as the bolt cooled (likely also cooled due to the wax). Someone might know the physics behind this trick, but I watched him do several studs and they all came out very easily.

 

[em14]

Very interesting ... thanks
Leo

 

[JimMc]

3/4" drive should do the trick.

Just another tip - use 3/4" sockets not just for the strength factor. Every time you add a joint, whether it be for an adapter or extension or whatever, you lose effectiveness in an impact tool application. Even a loose fit in the socket reduces the imact effect.

Also, I think you'll find that KK uses traditional RH threads on their blade bolts.

One last tip. Always replace the lock washer, even if it is brand new. They are not made for re-use. If the lock washer cracks on re-installation, it has no locking action whatsoever.

 

[OkieG]

<font color=blue>mechanics are running 150 to 175 psi , and if you need that extra power, maybe it's worth a repair or replacement bill now and then.</font color=blue>

No, Bird, I didn't know you were "in the business". I find your opinion on using higher pressure interesting. I guess if you know how to fix 'em it broadens your point of view.

I went ahead and bought the 3/4" IR-261 wrench I was looking at (on e-Bay). I think I got it at a fair price, but it was still almost $300.

A lot of places sell impact wrenches, but I wouldn't know where to look to get one fixed. Does it cost much? It must be cheaper than buying a new tool. Could the average user do it himself? Where do you find rebuild kits?...from the manufacturer? How well does a reasonable quality tool hold up to 150-175 psi? I'm wearing out the question mark key, so I'll stop now. Thanks.

OkieG