Replacing FEL bucket cutting edge

[KENSFM]

Hi, I have a JD 650 with a model 67 FEL with a 48" bucket. I would like to replace the worn cutting edge on the bucket. The worn edge is welded on and looks difficult to remove. Has anyone ever removed one and what did you use (cutting torch or grinder to break the welds)? A new edge is available from JD for about $75. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks, Ken

 

[OkieG]

My cutting edge is showing wear, too...from pushing snow on pavement. My 70A loader bucket edge is welded on, probably similar to yours.

Although the task of grinding to remove looks intimidating, the JD parts guy said the edges are attached with replacement in mind. I don't know. There is still a little life left in my edge, especially if I keep it off the pavement. However, replacing the edge does not look like fun. Let us know how it goes if you give it a try!

OkieG

 

[Hoeman00]

Most people on larger equipment add the
edge to the old.
Let it stick out past old one in front and if it
sticks past old edge behind weld a pc of
strap iron as a spacer.
BTW I picked one up for my TLB from
Bucyrus Blade (local manufacture)
1"x8"x94" for $90.00 so I need to weld it
on this winter.

 

[Thomas]

I agree w/ Hoeman00 about welding the cutting blade..

The only problem I found useing nuts & bolts,you could damage tar or cement etc..when the nuts are showing outside under the bucket...drag or dig marks.

 

[woodmills1]

when i buy a new edge for my snow plow I weld the old one onto the new one. this is not as easy as it sounds. the first one popped right off even though I used lots of heat. It seems the weld will shrink some on cooling and the edges are heat treaded steel. I was taught to use a thin welding rod as a spacer to hold the edge to be welded away from the attached one. I have good luck with this trick and the last time I did it I used the welded edge to plow streets for a town. welders on this board should be able to respond with helpful tips or the reasons why this trick works.

 

[Egon]

My B7100 loader required a new cutting edge last year. It too was welded on. I replaced it with a 1/2 in. by 4 in. edge which really helped stiffen the bucket.

The welder that did the work first cut the old blade off with a torch. It was a clean cut removing only the weld and left the original bucket material intact and remains of the old cutting edge intact. The new edge was then positioned and spot welded in position. Then was properly welded on.

Its a pleasure just to watch this guy weld.

Egon

 

[Hoeman00]

Use 7018 low hydrogen rod when
welding on these cutting edges.
The higher carbon content causes it
to get hard and brittle around weld area.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Putting a small space berween the plates allows for shrinkage. Grader cutting bits are brittle compared to the moldboard. When welding two surfaces together, as the weld cools there is shrinkage and the brittle side will crack instead of stretch.

 

[Turfman]

I had mine done at the dealer on Ol' Drippy before I traded her off. They left the original edge on and welded about 3/8" plate to it. They welded to the sides of the bucket also.

 

[JJT]

I had my dealer bolt on an 8" edge cut down from skid steer stock when my L3710 was new. Bolted right over the stock edge, significantly stiffened up the bucket and it's reversable. 4 years later and it doesn't show any wear, i doubt I will be reversing it in my lifetime....

It was a $100 upgrade.

They also used plow bolts, the heads are flush or slightly recessed into the cutting edge, so there's nothing to dig into the driveway.