John Deere 4200 Rear Diff lock repair

[Mighty Dodge]

You definitely need the manual. The diff lock is in the lh final drive. Do you know if they cleaned the suction screen when they changed the oil? If they didn't that could account for the erratic loader operation. Taking the final drive(s) off isn't that hard. I just changed a axle seal in mine a few months ago.

 

[pollolittle]

John in TN - the oil level was at the halfway mark on level ground. then I added fluid yesterday to see if it would change anything. No change. Now the level is toward the top of the glass. Which that is the way it has been for 10 years till the dealer changed it out.

The service manual seems to show synchronizer's and to check them.


I don't know how to post a pic, yet. Otherwise, I would show the pic and then you could explain it to me.

Mighty Dodge - Supposedly they cleaned the suction screen. How did you support the tractor when you split it to change the seal.

 

[dfkrug]

How did you support the tractor when you split it to change the seal.

So you must have the SST, with the 3-speed synchronized gearbox. The
manual (TM1677) is very detailed on how to fix the wet clutch and different
gear trannies. You will have to split the tractor to fix the clutch and
I suggest that if you do not have a hoist, use a cherry picker and rolling
jacks. Keep all the wheels on to facilitate rolling the halves.

For removing one of the rear "trumpet" housings, you don't split the
tractor. Just support the tractor under the central gearbox at the
rear and leave one rear wheel on for stability.

 

[pollolittle]

I have the book TM1677. Looking over it now, I see that I have the CST with no synchronizer assembly that I can find on the parts breakdown.

Here's my problem, then, everytime I go to shift it into gear the gears grind until such time it moves the wheels enough to slide into gear. Maybe I need to start over from the beginning, since I have the attention of more intelligent folks than I. Looking at the digital version of the book and I thought I was looking at synchronizers.

So, what makes it grind and how do I stop it from doing so.

 

[Mighty Dodge]

I didn't have to split the tractor. I just removed one of the final drives.

 

[John_in_TN]

I think you do have a clutch problem. I was just hoping the fix might be simpler than a clutch replacement. Sorry, but I am not a mechanic so I don't have any additional reccomendations.
The problem I experienced is probably rare. My dealer sent mechanics out twice (2 different mechanics) and both just said the tractor needed to wear-in and that the extra oil wouldn't cause the problem. After about fifty hours I somehow punctured the rubber coupling that connects the hydraulic suction tube to the transmission. I went out one morning to find a puddle of oil under the tractor. I needed to move it to a better position before the repair and found that it shifted much better than before. After installing the new coupling, I refilled to the center of the glass (like my manual specified), and never had anymore shifting problems.
Good luck with resolving your problems.

 

[dfkrug]

I think you do have a clutch problem.

I agree. If the clutch is dragging due to contaminated fluid or broken
friction discs or bearings, that will make the gears grind during engagement.

 

[pollolittle]

It is starting to make more sense.

Where do you get your parts from? Cheaper than dealer or equivalent price just mail order.?

You got to love a nice puddle to make a tractor work better.

 

[dfkrug]

Where do you get your parts from? Cheaper than dealer or equivalent price just mail order.?

My last order came from Bomberger's in PA. I have had good parts
sales from Arends Bros in IL also.

First, sign up on JDParts.com, then assign a dealer to your parts price
quotations. It does not have to be a local dealer. My locals have
gone off the charts when it comes to prices. And Deere prices are
already quite high.

 

[pollolittle]

OK, now the tractor is split in half. Now the what! I got the clutch off and seems to measure fine. Unfortunately I don't know what I'm looking for that would cause my problem. I haven't taken the gears out yet. I thought about removing them and taking all of it down to the dealer. The clutch and gear set to see if they could tell me what I had to fix. Any ideas would be great?