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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3
    Tractor
    New Holland TC29D

    Default New Holland 914a mower deck Scalp Wheel Adjustment Shaft rusted in place

    I have a New Holland 914a belly mower that has faced some neglect. I am replacing the two outside caster style scalp wheels. They are supposed to be adjustable, pull the pin and move the shaft up or down and line up a new hole. They are rusted and slightly bent. They barely spin. I bought two new wheels, the shafts, pins and bearing for the wheels. By the way, they are not sold as a kit, all parts are seperate and totaled to $230!!!! This is even re-using the forks that hold the wheels. I have gotten the wheels and forks off the deck and the adjustment pin pulled out of the shaft. All that is left is the shaft which is stuck in the round holder that is welded to the deck. I have tried pounding the pin with a center punch, heating the holder with a torch, and applied almost two cans of PB blaster over 2 weeks with no luck. I will try a gear puller tomorrow to drive the pin out. Last resort will be to take a grinder to the pin, flip the deck over, and try to drive out from the bottom side. I broke a large screwdriver off putting it through one of the pin holes in the shaft trying to twist it on some advice in another forum. Didn't work either. Anyone else have a suggestion?

  2. #2
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    319
    Location
    Central Pa
    Tractor
    NH Boomer 1025

    Default Re: New Holland 914a mower deck Scalp Wheel Adjustment Shaft rusted in place

    Quote Originally Posted by Cubbie View Post
    I have a New Holland 914a belly mower that has faced some neglect. I am replacing the two outside caster style scalp wheels. They are supposed to be adjustable, pull the pin and move the shaft up or down and line up a new hole. They are rusted and slightly bent. They barely spin. I bought two new wheels, the shafts, pins and bearing for the wheels. By the way, they are not sold as a kit, all parts are seperate and totaled to $230!!!! This is even re-using the forks that hold the wheels. I have gotten the wheels and forks off the deck and the adjustment pin pulled out of the shaft. All that is left is the shaft which is stuck in the round holder that is welded to the deck. I have tried pounding the pin with a center punch, heating the holder with a torch, and applied almost two cans of PB blaster over 2 weeks with no luck. I will try a gear puller tomorrow to drive the pin out. Last resort will be to take a grinder to the pin, flip the deck over, and try to drive out from the bottom side. I broke a large screwdriver off putting it through one of the pin holes in the shaft trying to twist it on some advice in another forum. Didn't work either. Anyone else have a suggestion?
    You know anyone with a ball joint press. Looks like a super heavy duty c-clamp or a air brake shoe anchor pin removing tool, one end of the tool is made so you can push things thru it. Might need a bushing to make it work so the pin would pass thru. Tighten the clamp down with a good 1/2" drive air gun, then smack the end of the clamp with a hammer, you might have to do this several time till it breaks free. Loc-tite also makes a chemical spray that makes stuff super cold which they claim will loosen seized bolts & nuts, that might work also.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    1,055
    Location
    WVa
    Tractor
    Kubota L3710, Ford 5600, Case MB4/94, Kubota B6200

    Default Re: New Holland 914a mower deck Scalp Wheel Adjustment Shaft rusted in place

    Get a can of Kroil and give it time to work.

  4. #4
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3
    Tractor
    New Holland TC29D

    Default Re: New Holland 914a mower deck Scalp Wheel Adjustment Shaft rusted in place

    An update. Had my friend come over with his Hydraulic Service truck. He has a lot bigger tools. Couldn't get his hydraulic gear puller to grab well enough to use it. Instead we pounded the pin upwards just a bit (thats all it would give in either direction) and rounded off the top with a grinder to account for mushrooming. We drilled a small pilot hole in the top of the pin. Some more PB blaster and took a very large center punch and a 5 lb sledge. He held the punch with some oversized channel lock pliers and I hit the punch with the sledge. 4 whacks and it popped out. I hate to say it, but I just needed a bigger hammer - and some extra hands to hold the punch so the hammer blow could be directly up and down and with some force. Had to ream out the holes with some emory cloth on a barrel drill bit before the new pin would slide freely. Cleaned the zerks with some brake cleaner and a small wire to pick out the dried grease, applied liberal amounts of silver anti-seize and re-assembled the whole wheel assembly with the new parts. Works great now. I would recommend (if you don't adjust the height of the scalp wheels much) to use a cotter pin in the end of the lock pin that goes in the adjustment holes. The Key Ring style keeper is a pain, especially when its rusty. Thanks for the suggestions. I will check out that Kroil and Loc-tite break free and stick some in my grease shack in the barn.

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