Leak from Hole in front axle

[OkieG]

I can pull all the plugs, but how do I flush the whole axle?

Would just heating with a TIG arc and then allowing to cool, loosen an outer race? That way no spatter to clean up and my unsteady hand wouldn't be depositing weld material off target here and there. Might be worth a try anyway. I could always escalate to molten steel if necessary.

Never would have thought of consulting with a bearing shop. Sounds like a good idea.

 

[rdbrumfield]

It might mean dissasembling a bit more of the housing and flushing with some diesel or solvent. If you have a pressure can like a weed sprayer, after you slip the axle from the housing, you should be able to take the wand under pressure and rinse it out. I know it means taking off the outer stubs on the housing, but it might save you some considerable damage in the future.

 

[Hoeman00]

At work we have cast iron all thread for plugging
holes in large cast iron pcs.
If u can get a small pc then cut off flush and braze
would be best way to plug.
Using similar metals is the best way to do it.

 

[AndyMA]

I've been following along with your problem for a while and just wanted to add my 2 cents. Years ago on my NH 2120, I also blew up the front differential. I did not hurt the casting. At the time I was told that the gears had to be replaced in matched sets, not just the pinion. A dealer fixed it, but did not get the thrust washers or something right and a few months later the gears blew again. I also remember the painful repair cost to be $1600 and as I said there was no damage to the casting. I would be very careful with this repair, and I would seriously consider replacing the gears as a set and finding out about the preload and backlash adjustments on them. Also from what I can see, I think the piece broke off the pinion and got wedged in the bearing causing it to break. I don't think the bearing came apart first but I could be wrong.Andy

 

[OkieG]

Andy,

It is pinion gear "L" that is damaged and the bearing just beneath it (not lettered) that failed. The gear that meshes with "L" is gear "M". The drawing is a little hard to read until you get used to it. Oops, am I saying that to an engineer? /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif The drawing was a little hard for ME to read. Is "M" the gear you suggest should be changed out?

 

[OkieG]

The more that gets cleaned up, the more there is to see. This is a shot of the manufacured "dish out" in the bottom of the casting (oval shaped). Of course, it all looks a little banged up, but if I can get the hole fixed, all may work OK.

If you look close at the picture in the post above, the "dish out" is shown in the drawing at the bottom of the semi-vertical spindle assembly (at the bottom of the housing between the printed letters L and M).

 

[OkieG]

Is cast iron "all thread" a threaded cast iron rod? It's easy to find threaded steel, but I have never noticed threaded cast iron anywhere. Would a welding store have that? I have included a picture of the hole with ruler for perspective. That little ruler hasn't had such a workout in a long time. Do you think the hole is small enough just to go ahead with brazing? It is about 1/4" by 3/8".

 

[rdbrumfield]

Okie, I believe that brazing it would work just fine. If you have the race out, you should be able to sit is on a small piece of plate and start your braze from the inside if you have any trouble filling the hole. Then turn it over, knock the piece of metal off and finish from the outside. Be sure not to get a cold weld, it will leak. Getting that small area redhot will not affect the heavier metal around the race seat, Just don't get the whole area redhot.
Be sure to leave some room in the dish. The inner bearing and shaft needs a little room. Hope this helps you.

 

[OkieG]

Would you pre-heat the casting before brazing or maybe not necessary?

OkieG

 

[rdbrumfield]

Just heat the area you need to weld. It is fairly thin, so you should be able to keep the heat down to the other areas. It will warm up some but shouldn't cause any harm.