IGNITION SWITCHES

[gunnner]

Hi--
I seem to have a faulty ignition switch---when turned to start it will push the plunger out on the fuel cut off switch , thus shutting off the fuel & then it will not start. ( the fuel cut off switch is brand new ). I can also jiggel the key in the on position & controll panel lights will go off & gauges stop working. Other than that there is no real problem with the switch.

So my question is are all ignition switches pretty much the same or do I need to get one from the manufactura of my machine which is a Kobelco SK 015.

 

[kebo]

For ease of repair, and possibly saving you a headache, I think the cost of the exact replacement part would be worth it. If you buy something that is *close* to what you need, you may wind up having to change a connector or terminals, or else figure out new connections, thus not making it such a good deal. Jmho.

 

[gunnner]

Thanks for reply kebo---
I'm kinda thinkin the same thing as there is not much room to get in to repace the switch. And the neck of the existing switch is rather large compared to what I saw at the Napa auto store. So a problem there to start with.
Gona call a parts place that I have delt with before. I'ts the only place I know to get parts for this Kobelco----no place here in town has any listings for it. ( along with my Yanmar 1610 tractor)

THANKS

 

[mitch becton]

if they cant help in atlanta ga company name metrax used to sale kobelco parts. we have your same problem in north georgia kobelco packed up several years ago and left and some of their parts have to come from kobelco to fit right. their phone number is 404-691-9445 good luck

 

[gunnner]

if they cant help in atlanta ga company name metrax used to sale kobelco parts. we have your same problem in north georgia kobelco packed up several years ago and left and some of their parts have to come from kobelco to fit right. their phone number is 404-691-9445 good luck

Hey thanks mitch becton--:thumbsup:--I will make note of that number--

Was in town yesterday & was talking with a friend who has Kobelcos. He be workin in Ga. rite now clearing land etc..---He told me of a place in Ga. area that deals in Kobelco parts---Cowin Equipment I think he call it. ( it's a 849 #)

This is good---I now have 3 places to get parts from.

Thank for your info.

 

[gunnner]

Just thought I'd pop in hear & tell ya I ordered a new ignition switch ( a Kobelco one) from the place I have ordered from before---Southern parts I think it is called--In Tenn. I think----They did me OK---( I think)
Anyway the switch cost $160 ( YIKES )

After reading kebos reply ----I asked some knowlegeable people I know that I just happened to see in town---They all said--buy the manufacturas one---SO BE IT---shoyld be here tomorrow.

Thanks for all the replies

 

[Soundguy]

wow.. 160$..

had it been cheaper I'd have gotten oem.. but for that one that must have platnium contacts and a jeweled movement.. i think I'd have gotten a napa universal multi position rotary key switch and wired it up as needed for igntion, accy, glow and run / start.. can't be that hard.. just a switch..

soundguy

 

[gunnner]

Well I got the new switch yesterday----marked the old one & removed it. The terninals are in the same place but not marked the same as old one.
So dose anyone know where I can find a color wire diagram to hook this up---fraid if I do it wrong I will fry something.
At present waiting for the company man who soldme the switch to find a diagram---1 hr. now!

My machine is a Kobelco SK 015 (1992 I think )----

The box says Kobelco part # PV50S00001F1

I have tried google---did not find a answer ( maybe I didn't ask properly)

I did find a site ' Ask a Kobelco Mechanic'---wanted $30 to get a answer!

Any leads appreciated

 

[Snaker]

One way to figure it out is to make a table grid on paper for each switch. Write down each terminal position at each switch position down the left side and across the top.
Example:

Off term A
Off term B
Off term C
Run term A
Run term B
Run term C
Start term A
Start term B
Start term C

Use a ohm meter or a simple test light and go through all those possibilities, placing a X in the appropriate table box. This assumes that you can wiggle the old switch enough to work.
Then compare the two tables and match the terminal combinations to each switch.

 

[gunnner]

Thought I'd pop in & tell ya all that I installed the new ignition switch.
I hooked up the same way it came out even though where on the old one the red wire was conected to a terminal that was marke with a 'B'---& the the terminal that was marked 'C' had the black wire. I was thinkin that should be reversed------
But I hooked it up the origanal way cause it worked that way when I bought it. Maybe the owner replaced the original switch but not correctly----------
Anyway my excavator is up & running----starts up 1st try & shuts down with the key switch too.

Now to find the hydrolic leak---allways sumtin

THANKS for all the replies :thumbsup: