Ford 800 hard steering to left

[george46]

Sure will!

 

[638]

Check your front tire pressure. Low pressure on one side will make it steer easier in that direction.

 

[george46]

Allright, are you ready for my troubleshooting results? Allow some time to red this, as it's not the short version. You had me in such suspense that I made the trip north over the weekend to check out the tractor as you suggested.
Wormshaft end play is 0.017. That is turning the steering lock to lock with the machine up on jack stands. Now I turned each way with considerable tension to get that much end-play. My repair manual suggests to first make certain that the gear housing is filled with lubricant (which I had filled it with # 2 grease that you said is a no-no so im reluctant to add more now that some has leaked out & I don't have any 0 or 00 grease) & they say to removing the drag links from the sector shaft arms to remove load from gear unit and to back out the sector shaft adjusters before doing this test, with acceptable tolerance range of 0.006 to 0.010 of end play. They suggest if it is greater that 0.010 to remove shims to achieve the optimim reading. Would you feel that 0.007 excess end play over the suggested acceptable range is significant considering my method of testing and considerable tention & load on the gear unit? However from your experience that worn thrust bearings are the only cause that you are aware of for hard stearing in just one direction that you would feel that I should disassemble & inspect them at minimum.
I could not detect any noticable fore/aft or up/down movement in the sector shaft arms. I even placed my finger on them to feel any such movement and nothing other than rotational movement when it started to rotate. So I'm pretty confident of my findings! However remember I do have a right side seal leaking what appears to be of the thinner 0 or 00 grade grease. Too thin to be # 2 grease. At minimum I need to replace that seal I assume! Question for you: Since I filled it with # 2 grease do you feel I need to disassemble the whole steering box to wash it out w/solvent as i've heard you should not mix different greases as well as will the 00 grease find it's way to the voids created around the gears & bearings due to the no slump #2grease??
Front axle: The bottom front spindle bearings have some play, not major. What is acceptable? I don't see it being enough slop to allow it to bind as you indicated can be a problem. My repair manual only gives replacement instructions, no tolerances.
Left front drag link has play and needs replaced I'm sure.
Wheel bearings have some play but I had planned to remove them & wash them out w/solvent, inspect & repack when my time permits. I don't see that being priority versus these other things now though.
Front tire pressure as good. I just put on new front tires and inflated to 40 psi.
Thats about it!

 

[Soundguy]

unless the steering is hard turning, i doubt that .07 end play is an issue.. such as a bad bearing.. worn..yes.. probably needs a shim removed at least.. normally when you see a bad top bearing, there is 1/8" to 3/8" play in the steering wheel!

sector side adjusters being adjusted in too tight will cause hard steering.

the worn spindle bushings, if they allow the spindles to cock tot he sides.. that will cause some hard steering.

the worn tie rod end just adds slop.

i'd shoot some gear oil into the box for S&G's as it will fil the voids in the grease, and lube that ballnut and bearings..

so far.. it's not sounding like a box issue.

the seeping you say from the sector seal is likely fluid off the grease or residual oil seeping out. if you intend to pack with 0 or 00 grease.. and are not rebuilding the box, but merely removing a shim.. I don't think I'd go to too much superhuman trouble to get all the #2 grease out.. just whatever you can dig out with a tool with the cover off, then fill the ballance with 0 or 00, then put cover on and squeeze in more 0 or 00 till it comes out under the steering wheel or vent hole...

adjust the sector studs to remove slop.. but not so tight to make steering hard.. and it's easy to do.. just snug them.. don't go past snug or they WILL bind the steering.


front wheel bearings also add to slop.. they have a castelated nut you can pull the pin on and then give a turn to and reinsert pin.. if that corrects the slop, then thee bearings are likely still serviceable.

soundguy

 

[george46]

Okay, I'll follow your suggestions. One question though: 0 or 00 grease, is that only available from Ford/New Holland? Can't seem to find it so far at places such as Tactor Supply or Advance auto parts. Also I believe you said a 34 oz tube should fill the steering box. I don't think I recall seeing that size. I'm familiar with 14 oz tubes of grease that my grease gun accepts. What for gun would a 34 oz tube require? If it''s available in 14 oz size I'll buy multiple tubes if you feel it would likely take 34 ozs. I guess I should also consider that it will only accept enough grease to fill voids created in the # 2 grease around the gears & bearings since I had it pumped full.

Thank you so much for all of you help.

 

[Soundguy]

cnh does sell a ep 0 grease.. but then.. probbaly a hundred other people do too.. amsoil.. john deere.. etc.

I get mine from a lawnmower dealer.. who sells snapper.. as some snapper equipment use nlgi 00 ep grease.

comes in a 32 oz 'gear oil' BOTTLE not tube..

soundguy

 

[george46]

Okay, great. Thanks!

 

[prateroad]

time to do some testing.

jack the front axle up so the tires can move freely.

steer the steering wheel from lock to lock.

look at the hub on the steering wheel and the steering column.. does the steering wheel hub rise out away from the column in one direction, and fall or screw in in another?

if so you have worn thrust bearings, which is a very common cause of hard steering one direction and easier in the other.

also.. observe the sector arms that come out of the sides of the steering box. when you turn the steer wheel, is there fore / aft movement ( or even up / down ) of the shaft BEFORE it starts rotational movement? if so, the sector bushings are worn, that usually doesn't make for hard steering, it just makes for sloppy steering, and makes it harder to adjust backlash out of the sector gears and ballnut.. also makes the sector seals wear and leak.

lastly.. lack of oil in the box will make it hard to steer.

next test is to see if you have excessive spindle bushing wear. go to the front knees and se if where the axle comes out of the bottom of the knee.. see if you can rock the axle inside the knee.. worn bushings allow the axle to cock to one side and bind.

depending on what you post back, you may need one or 2 thrust bearings and very likely the races.. .. plus bushings and seals if needed, and if spindle bushings worn.. them too.. check front hubs to see if they have any play while you are at it.. IE.. front wheel bearings and seals. also check rear draglink ends and front tie rod ends.. botht he pin and the dust seal... those also add to slop.. but not so much hard steering. worn front wheel beaqirngs can lead to wobbly steering and hard to set toe in when travveling.

a 32oz tube of NLGI EP 0 or 00 grease can then be used to refill the box after you rebuild it, set preload with shims and adjust backlash via sector adjuster studs.

there is also a lil bushing/bearing that sets at the top of the steering column that usually needs to be knocked out and replaced.

I generally plan on rebuilding the steering box on all my manual steering fords when i get them. price is less than 100$ in parts assuming no gear wear beyond reusing the ballnut/worm gear, double and single sectors.

an impact wrench will be helpfull in removing the acorn nut atop the steering wheel, plus the sector arm nuts. a 2 jaw tie rod puller is good for removeing the pittman arms from the sector shafts.

for the steering wheel.. be carefull.. a 3 jaw standard puller usually mangles the hub.. I use a 2 jaw that is a wide narrow jaw .. it is more suited for pulling wheels.. there are also pullers that pull on the spokes. in rare cases you have to split the hubs of the steering wheels to remove them.

I just finished rebuildig the box on my 63 2000.. ie.. same box as your 800. if all the nuts and bolts and arms and steering wheel come off with no more than usual hassle, figure that you can pull the hood sides and set them aside a lil, and then the dash.. etc.. pop the box apart , and preferably seperate from the tractor and rebuild ont he bench... probably use an hour to get it free of the tractor.. then an hour to rehab, and 30 minutes to set back up on the tractor and adjust and be ready to go after greasing... if you've worked on em before.. or had the hood off recently and them lil fasteners are new or neverseized.. haldf the times I mentioned... someone who knows a ford can usually rehab and have a box back together on and off the tracor in just over an hour.

post back with any questions... ford manual steering boxes are EZ.

ps.. I'd suggest having the fo-20 service manual handy for retiming the sector gears to the ballnut.. there's a cheating method.. but best if you learn the correct way..

soundguy

Im new to this this site. I dont know how to start a new thread but HELP! 800 Ford tractor power steering worked fine until I changed the seals upper and lower, now i have a rattling sound and hard steering. Any help would be appreciated. I've got a manual and i've done this before, scratching my head. Soundguy, if you could possibly call me, David 3 fiftytwo 807 fourteen twentyfive anytime. Ive got a few questions. Thanks.

 

[prateroad]

I dont know how to start a new thread but HELP! 800 Ford tractor power steering worked fine until I changed the seals upper and lower, now i have a rattling sound and hard steering. Any help would be appreciated. I've got a manual and i've done this before, scratching my head. Soundguy, if you could possibly call me, David 3 fiftytwo 807 fourteen twentyfive anytime. Ive got a few questions. Thanks.

 

[Soundguy]

Back out of this thread.. that leaves you in the parts and repairs forum. at the top left of the page is a 'post new thread' grey button.