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  1. #1
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    ford model 1710 & ford 800

    Default Ford 800 hard steering to left

    I have a ford 800 with a front-end loader with no power steering. As would be expected steering becomes more difficult when moving a full bucket of material w/o powersteering. However steering to the right is manageable but is a major challenge when turning to the left. So much that fatigue sets in when doing any amount of work. Even without any material in the bucket its still a handful. Anyone had any such experience or suggestions? Any input would be appreciated!

  2. #2
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    time to do some testing.

    jack the front axle up so the tires can move freely.

    steer the steering wheel from lock to lock.

    look at the hub on the steering wheel and the steering column.. does the steering wheel hub rise out away from the column in one direction, and fall or screw in in another?

    if so you have worn thrust bearings, which is a very common cause of hard steering one direction and easier in the other.

    also.. observe the sector arms that come out of the sides of the steering box. when you turn the steer wheel, is there fore / aft movement ( or even up / down ) of the shaft BEFORE it starts rotational movement? if so, the sector bushings are worn, that usually doesn't make for hard steering, it just makes for sloppy steering, and makes it harder to adjust backlash out of the sector gears and ballnut.. also makes the sector seals wear and leak.

    lastly.. lack of oil in the box will make it hard to steer.

    next test is to see if you have excessive spindle bushing wear. go to the front knees and se if where the axle comes out of the bottom of the knee.. see if you can rock the axle inside the knee.. worn bushings allow the axle to cock to one side and bind.

    depending on what you post back, you may need one or 2 thrust bearings and very likely the races.. .. plus bushings and seals if needed, and if spindle bushings worn.. them too.. check front hubs to see if they have any play while you are at it.. IE.. front wheel bearings and seals. also check rear draglink ends and front tie rod ends.. botht he pin and the dust seal... those also add to slop.. but not so much hard steering. worn front wheel beaqirngs can lead to wobbly steering and hard to set toe in when travveling.

    a 32oz tube of NLGI EP 0 or 00 grease can then be used to refill the box after you rebuild it, set preload with shims and adjust backlash via sector adjuster studs.

    there is also a lil bushing/bearing that sets at the top of the steering column that usually needs to be knocked out and replaced.

    I generally plan on rebuilding the steering box on all my manual steering fords when i get them. price is less than 100$ in parts assuming no gear wear beyond reusing the ballnut/worm gear, double and single sectors.

    an impact wrench will be helpfull in removing the acorn nut atop the steering wheel, plus the sector arm nuts. a 2 jaw tie rod puller is good for removeing the pittman arms from the sector shafts.

    for the steering wheel.. be carefull.. a 3 jaw standard puller usually mangles the hub.. I use a 2 jaw that is a wide narrow jaw .. it is more suited for pulling wheels.. there are also pullers that pull on the spokes. in rare cases you have to split the hubs of the steering wheels to remove them.

    I just finished rebuildig the box on my 63 2000.. ie.. same box as your 800. if all the nuts and bolts and arms and steering wheel come off with no more than usual hassle, figure that you can pull the hood sides and set them aside a lil, and then the dash.. etc.. pop the box apart , and preferably seperate from the tractor and rebuild ont he bench... probably use an hour to get it free of the tractor.. then an hour to rehab, and 30 minutes to set back up on the tractor and adjust and be ready to go after greasing... if you've worked on em before.. or had the hood off recently and them lil fasteners are new or neverseized.. haldf the times I mentioned... someone who knows a ford can usually rehab and have a box back together on and off the tracor in just over an hour.

    post back with any questions... ford manual steering boxes are EZ.

    ps.. I'd suggest having the fo-20 service manual handy for retiming the sector gears to the ballnut.. there's a cheating method.. but best if you learn the correct way..

    soundguy

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    Thank you so much! Sounds like a thorough test of the steering components. Your instructions sounds easy enough to work through. You make the repairs sound simple. I have a IT repair manual that I glanced through the section on steering boxes. I found it somewhat intimitating having never worked on one but you make it so simple. I'm looking forward to trouble shooting as you suggested. However the tractor is at our vacation home a couple hours away and I wont have the opportunity to get back up there in the immediate future.
    I will definately get back to you with my sesults. Thanks again so much!

  4. #4
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    I suggest you print out my message and take it with you.

    I'll also include in this post an exploded diagram from the NH parts site as well as a parts listing to go with it so you can 'see' the innards and know what to expect.

    whenever you do go and do the tests.. just make a new post in the ford section.. someone will see it.. there are at least a few other guys here that know these fords in and out.

    what follows will be the parts lists for the steering box and the frot axle .. as well as 2 pics showing the front axle and box, in exploded format, with parts numbers matching the lists.

    good luck, and post back. steering boxes are easy to R&R.. we can help you..

    soundguy

    parts list for steering gear:

    1 2 8N3584B Cover Assy., Steering Gear Housing Side, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    2 4 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, Lock, 3/8", Start Year: 01/01/1953
    3 4 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Bolt, HH, Heat Treated, 3/8"-16 x 1.12, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    4 2 8N33546 PACKING Packing, Steering Gear Lash Adjuster, Included in Kit P/N 251294, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    5 4 AJ3576A BUSHING Bushing, Steering Gear Sector & Pitman Shaft, 1-1/4" O.D. x 1.38 Lg., Start Year: 01/01/1953
    5 2 8N3576B BUSHING Bushing, Steering Gear Sector & Pitman Shaft, 1-1/4" O.D. x .84 Lg., No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    6 2 87073S94 O-RING O-Ring, 2.500" ID x .139" Thk, Side Cover, Included in Kit P/N 251294, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    7 AR 8N33544A SHIM Shim, Steering Gear Lash Adjusting, .063 Thick, Identification #3, Included in Kit P/N 251294, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    7 AR 8N33544B SHIM Shim, Steering Gear Lash Adjusting, .065 Thick, Identification #5, Included in Kit P/N 251294, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    7 AR 8N33544C SHIM Shim, Steering Gear Lash Adjusting, .067 Thick, Identification #7, Included in Kit P/N 251294, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    7 AR 8N33544D SHIM Shim, Steering Gear Lash Adjusting, .069 Thick, Identification #9, Included in Kit P/N 251294, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    8 2 8N33545 ADJUSTER Adjuster, Steering Gear Lash, Included in Kit P/N 251294, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    9 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, Flat, 7/16", Included in Kit P/N 251294, Included in Kit P/N 251293, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    10 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, Hex, Jam, 7/16"-20, Included in Kit P/N 251294, Included in Kit P/N 251293, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    11 1 251293 SHAFT Kit, Shaft, Steering Gear Sector or Pitman, R.H., Replaces P/N C3NN-3526-A, Includes Ref No. 4, 13, 14, 16, 17, & 6 thru 10., If Tractor is Equipped With 5 Toot
    12 1 251294 SHAFT Kit, Shaft, Steering Gear Sector or Pitman L.H., Replaces P/N C3NN-3527-A, Includes Ref. No. 4, 13, 14, 16, 17 & 6 thru 10, If Tractor is Equipped With 5 Tooth
    13 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, Lock, 3/4", Included in Kit P/N 251294, Included in Kit P/N 251293, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    14 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, Hex, Jam, 3/4"-16, Included in Kit P/N 251294, Included in Kit P/N 251293, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    15 2 86542743 ARM Arm, Steering Gear Pitman, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    16 2 86553476 SEAL PROTECTION Seal, Steering Gear Sector Shaft Dust, Felt, 1.09 I.D. x 1.88 O.D., Included in Kit P/N 251294, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    17 4 D5UZ3591A SEAL Seal, Steering Gear Sector Shaft, Replaces P/N 8N-3585 & 8N-3591, Included in Kit P/N 251294, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    18 1 8N3548B Housing Assy., Steering Gear, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    19 1 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Plug, Expansion, 1-1/4", Prior to S/N 92900, Years: 01/01/1953-12/31/1959
    19 1 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Plug, Socket Holes, 3/8"-18, After S/N 92899, Start Year: 01/01/1959
    20 1 C3NN3503E Gear Assy., Steering, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1955
    21 4 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Bolt, HH, 7/16"-14 x 1.38, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Plug, Pipe, 1/8"-27
    22 1 C0NN3C715A GASKET Gasket, Steering Gear Mounting Select-O-Speed Only, Start Year: 01/01/1959
    23 AR C5NN3595B SHIM Shim, Steering Gear Housing, .002" Thick, Replaces P/N 8N-3595-A, Included in Kit P/N 251296, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    23 AR 251296 KIT Kit, Shim, Steering Gear Housing, 005" Thick, Replaces P/N 8N-3595-B, Includes Ref. No. 23. (B,C, & D), Start Year: 01/01/1953
    23 AR 251296 KIT Shim, Steering Gear Housing, .010" Thick, Replaced P/N 8N-3595-B, Included in Kit P/N 251296, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    23 AR 8N3595D SHIM Shim, Steering Gear Housing, .030" Thick, Replaced by P/N 8N-3595-B, Included in Kit P/N 251296, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    24 1 356937S EYE Eyelet, .273 I.D. x 2.15 Lg., Start Year: 01/01/1953
    25 1 8N33581 RETAINER Retainer, Steering Gear Ball & Nut Bearing, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    26 2 8N3552 THRUST BEARING Cup, Steering Gear Thrust Bearing, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    27 2 8N3571 THRUST BEARING Bearing, Steering Gear Worm Thrust, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    28 1 NAA3575C SHAFT Shaft Assy., Steering, NAA, Years: 01/01/1953-12/31/1954
    28 1 NCA3575A SHAFT Shaft Assy., Steering, Start Year: 01/01/1954
    29 1 NAA3509B COVER Cover & Tube Assy., NAA, No Longer Serviced, Years: 01/01/1953-12/31/1954
    29 1 311318 RIGID TUBE Tube, Steering Gear Housing, Cover No Longer Serviced, Replaces P/N NCA-3509-A, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1954
    4 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, Lock, 3/8", Start Year: 01/01/1953
    4 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Bolt, HH, 3/8"-16 x 1.12, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    30 1 B7NN3517A BEARING Bearing Assy., Steering Sector Shaft, Replaces P/N 310875, Alternate W/C5NN3N716A, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    31 1 8N3518 SEAT Seat, Steering Column Bearing Spring, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    32 1 8N3520 SPRING Spring, Steering Column Bearing, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    33 1 8N3570 SEAL Seal, Steering Column Dust, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    34 1 D6NN3600B STEERING WHEEL Wheel Assy., Steering, 36 Splines, Replaces P/N 8N-3600, 36 Splines, When replacing P/N 8N3600 W/D6NN3600B also use (1) C7NN3655B Cap & (1) D5NN3N602A Nut., Sta
    35 1 356515S36 WASHER Washer, Flat, .70" x 1.50" x .04" Thick, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    36 1 359295S7 NUT Nut, Blind, 11/16"-20, Start Year: 01/01/1953



    front axle parts list:

    1 AR NLS No Longer Serviced Axle Assy., Front, LH, NAA, NAB{8N3007C}, Years: 01/01/1955-12/31/1954
    1 1 NCA3007A FRONT AXLE Axle Assy., Front, LH, All Purpose Standard, Start Year: 01/01/1955
    1 1 C7NN3007H FRONT AXLE Axle Assy., Front, LH, LCG, Start Year: 01/01/1961
    1 1 312637 Axle Assy., Front, LH, All Purpose, Heavy Duty, When replacing 312636 & 312637 you must order (1) NCA3006A & (1) NCA3007A., No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 07/0
    1A AR NLS No Longer Serviced Axle Assy., Front, RH, NAA, NAB{8N3006C}, Years: 01/01/1953-12/31/1954
    1A 1 NCA3006A FRONT AXLE Axle Assy., Front, RH, All Purpose, Standard, No Longer Serviced, Years: 01/01/1955-12/31/1964
    1A AR C7NN3006H FRONT AXLE Axle Assy., Front, RH, LCG, Years: 01/01/1961-12/31/1964
    1A AR 312636 Axle Assy., Front, RH, All Purpose, Heavy Duty, When replacing 312636 & 312637 you must order (1) NCA3006A & (1) NCA3007A., Years: 07/01/1958-12/31/1964
    2 1 F3NN3106AA SPINDLE Spindle Assy., Front Wheel, LH, NAA, NAB, Years: 01/01/1953-12/31/1954
    2 1 F2NN3106BA SPINDLE Spindle Assy., Front Wheel, LH, All Purpose, Standard, Start Year: 01/01/1955
    2 1 F2NN3106CA SPINDLE Spindle Assy., Front Wheel, LH, LCG, Start Year: 01/01/1961
    2 1 312635 SPINDLE Spindle Assy., Front Wheel, LH, All Purpose, Heavy Duty, Start Year: 07/01/1958
    3 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Fitting, Lube, 1/8"-27 x 3/4", Start Year: 01/01/1953
    4 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, 3/4"-16
    5 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Pin, Cotter, 5/32" x 1-1/4"
    6 2 81811561 WASHER Washer, Front Hub Bearing Retainer, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    7 2 2N3109 BUSHING Bushing, Front Wheel Spindle, Upper, 53/54 Use 4 pieces for upper & lower front, Start Year: 01/01/1955
    8 2 NCA3110A BUSHING Bushing, Front Wheel Spindle, Lower, All Purpose, Standard, & LCG, Start Year: 01/01/1955
    8 2 312662 BUSHING Bushing, Front Wheel Spindle, Lower, All Purpose, Heavy Duty, Start Year: 07/01/1958
    9 2 81802871 RING Bearing Assy., Front Wheel Spindle Pin, All Purpose, Heavy Duty, Start Year: 07/01/1958
    9 2 C0NN3123B BEARING ASSY Bearing Assy., Front Wheel Spindle Pin, All Purpose, Standard, & LCG, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    10 4 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Bolt, HH, 5/8"-18 x 3.40, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    11 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, Flat, 5/8", Start Year: 07/01/1958
    12 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, Hex, 5/8"-18, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    13 1 D9NN3010EA FRONT AXLE Axle Assy., Front Center, All Purpose, Standard & LCG, No Longer Used, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 07/01/1958
    13 1 312658 FRONT AXLE Axle Assy., Front Center, L/Bushing, All Purpose Heavy Duty, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 07/01/1958
    14 1 2N3039 BUSHING Bushing Assy., Axle, All Purpose Standard & LCG, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    14 1 312661 BUSHING Bushing, Front Axle, All Purpose Heavy Duty, Start Year: 07/01/1958
    15 AR 312710 SUPPORT Support Assy., Front Axle Threaded, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    16 4 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Stud, 5/8"-11-18 x 2-1/16", Start Year: 01/01/1953
    16 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Bolt, HH, 5/8"-18 x 2-1/4", Start Year: 01/01/1957
    16 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, 5/8" Flat
    17 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, Hex, 5/8"-18, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    18 1 NCA3127A PIN Pin, Front Axle Threaded, All Purpose, Standard & LCG, Start Year: 01/01/1957
    18 1 312659 PIN Pin, Front Axle, Threaded, All Purpose, Heavy Duty, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    19 1 NCA3128A FLANGE Flange, Front Axle Pin, Locking, Use W/NCA3127A, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    19 1 312660 FLANGE Flange, Front Axle Pin, Locking, All Purpose Heavy Duty, Start Year: 07/01/1958
    20 AR NCA3135A RING Ring, Snap, Front Axle Pin, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    21 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, Lock, 1/2", Start Year: 01/01/1953
    22 1 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Bolt, HH, 1/2"-20 x 1.12, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    23 1 86507106 PIN Pin, Front Axle, Unthreaded, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    24 2 86531713 SCREW Screw, Cap, HH, G5, 5/8"-18 x 5", Radius Rod Foot, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, Hex, 5/8"-18, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    25 1 F3NN3105AA SPINDLE Spindle Assy., Front Wheel, R.H., NAA, NAB, Years: 01/01/1953-12/31/1954
    25 1 F2NN3105BA SPINDLE Spindle Assy., Front Wheel, R.H., All Purpose Standard, Start Year: 01/01/1955
    25 1 F2NN3105CA SPINDLE Spindle Assy., Front Wheel, R.H., LCG, Start Year: 01/01/1961
    25 1 312634 SPINDLE Spindle Assy., Front Wheel, R.H., All Purpose Heavy Duty, Start Year: 07/01/1958
    26 2 C5NN3125A SEAL Seal, Steering Arm Dust, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    27 2 310799 ARM Arm, Front Axle Spindle, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    28 2 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Bolt, HH, 7/16"-20 x 2-1/4", Start Year: 01/01/1953
    29 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, Lock, 7/16"
    30 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, Hex, 7/16"-20
    31 2 NAA3270A KIT Kit, Drag Link Front End Includes: (1) NAA3290A End Assy., (N.S.) and Ref. 32 thru 35, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    32 1 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Fitting, Lubricator, 1/4"-28
    33 1 8M3332 SEAL Seal
    34 1 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, Hex, Slotted, 1/2"-20
    35 1 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Pin, Cotter, 3/32" x 7/8", Start Year: 01/01/1953
    36 1 NAA3314B SLEEVE Sleeve, Steering Drag Link Adjusting, R.H., Start Year: 01/01/1953
    37 4 957E3287 CLAMP Clamp, Spindle Connecting Rod, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    38 4 PL PROCURE LOCALLY Bolt, Carriage, 5/16"-24 x 1.38, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    39 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Washer, Lock, 5/16"
    40 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Nut, Hex, 5/16"-24"
    41 2 NAA33271A KIT Kit, Drag Link, Rear End Includes: (1) NAA3307B End Assy., (N.S.); (1) Fitting, 1/4"-28 Lubricating; (1) Nut, 1/2"-20 Slotted Hex; and (1) Pin, 3/32" x 7/8" Co
    42 2 A0NN3324A COVER Cover, Dust, Drag Link, Rear End, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    43 2 310034 ROD Rod Assy., Tie, Front Radius, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    44 1 NAA3503B Gear Assy., Steering, NAA, NAB, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    44 1 C3NN3503E Gear Assy., Steering, Except NAA, No Longer Serviced, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    45 1 NAA33315A SLEEVE Sleeve, Steering Drag Link, Adjusting, L.H., Start Year: 01/01/1953
    46 2 E0NN3N442BA SPACER Spacer, Radius Rod Ball, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    47 2 E0NN3N406BA CAP COVER Cap, Radius Rod Ball, Start Year: 01/01/1953
    48 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Stud, Screw, 7/16"-14-20 x 1-7/8"
    49 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Stud, 7/16"-20-14 x 3-9/16"
    50 AR PL PROCURE LOCALLY Key, Woodruff, 1/4" x 7/8"
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -800axlefront-gif   -800steering-gif  

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    Great. You have been so helpful! I have printed everything you've sent me. I'm so anxious check it out! Once I have diagnosed it and feel confident of my asessment it may be a while before I get time to tear it apart as I use it quite a bit at our vacation property and don't want to be without it for any length of time. When I have a decent window of time available to complete the job I'll get on with it. I'm sure it will take me a bit more time than you, it being my first.
    Thanks again!!!

    Will do a new post after my trouble shooting as you suggest.

  6. #6
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    even with a learning curve, this is a 'lunch' job.

    IE.. start at breakfast.. loosen hood tin so you can get at box and box top.. get gauges out of the way.. yadayada.. battery..e tc.. then seperate pittman arms from sector shafts.. then pull 4 bolts.. etc... etc.

    OR you can work on it right ont he tractor if you have shade.

    depending on what it needs.. sector arms may not have to come all the way out.. can pull side covers and slide them in enough to clear ballnut, if it's lower bearing is bad.. usually if there is oil.. it ain't.

    in some cases.. it's merely the top bearing.. and if you can fish the rollers out with a magnet on a telescoping stick.. then reallyit is just pulling the top of the steering column off after getting some tin out of the way, remove old bearing.. slide new one on, adjust shims and rebolt cover.. and then adjsut sector backlash. IE.. 2hr job.. remember to relube the box. I like 00 EP grease.. you can get that at many places that sell lawn equipment.. or jd cornhead 0 ep grease will work.

    soundguy

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    Would like to clarify a few things: Where you say the sector arms may not have to come all the way out. Pull side covers and slide them in enough to clear ballnut. What cide covers and ballnut are you referring to? Part # 1 "cover assy"? Plus I don't see a ballnut listed!
    Also you refer to oir & grease in the steering box! I couldn't find anywhere to put oil in it but it has a greese fitting. I assumed it only gets grease. Am I missing something here? I filled it with grease until it wouldn't take anymore. However now I have noticed grease leaking out from the right side sector shaft seal.
    I'm assuming the hood pannels must be removed. That is quite a challenge and almost requires two people since it has a front end loader due to the close clearance of some apparatus which easly scratches the hood pannels that I had repainted. Even with two people it requires extreme patience and care. Although not impossible.
    I'm working in a spacious garage so the concern for shade is not an issue. If it is possible to repair on the tractor,that sounds like my prefference.Unless you highly advise otherwise.
    Back to the pert that I mentioned the right sector seal leaking grease I would assume that is an issue that would require replacing the seal and most likely the bearing being the cause. Your opinion?
    And thanks again so much for your time and advise. And of course your patience with my inexperience.

  8. #8
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    there are only 2 'side' covers on theis box.. right side and left side.. they are part number 1 on the exploded diagram.. they are oval and the sector adjuster stud sticks out of them, held there with a locknut.. those covers have to come off to slide the sector gears out of the box.. however.. you don't have to slide the gears all the way out if you are only servicing the lower bearing on the steering worm shaft. just the double sector must be slid out enough so the ballnut that rides the wormshaft can clear and the shaft assy be lifted out.

    the ballnut is a part of the steering wormshaft assy. there are no individual parts available for it, so no part numbers are listed for the recirculating ballnut.. that's the squarish piece with grooves on it that rides the lower 6" of the steering shaft worm gear.. as you turn the steering wheel, and thus the steering shaft, the ballnut must rise or fall as the shaft is screwed thru the middle of it, and it is engaged via gear teeth to the forward double sector, which is in turn engaged by gear teeth to the aft single sector.

    originally the box top.. the part with the steering column, had a plug in the top of the cast iron cover. someone has removed the plug and installed a grease fitting in it's place. Originally the box was an oil sump holding gear oil. back in 62 ford put out a bulletin to instead fill the box with NLGI 0 EP grease to combat leaking sector seals. It is NOT adviseable to put in greular 'gun' or NLGI 2/4 chassis grease.. it will make a cavity around the gears and ballnut and not slump, and very soom the gears will be dry and unlubed again.. same with the bearings. Only NLGI 0 or 00 ep grease should be used. it is a semi-liquid grease that flows and slumps, and will refill the cavity made during steering.

    If you have worn sector seals it is common for grease or oil to extrude / weep out of the sector seals.

    there are no sector bearings, only sector busings. the more wear the seals and bushings have, the more it leaks. in general, if the seals are not hogged out, they usually hold grease ok. if the bushings are bad so that the sector arms have for / aft movement before starting rotational movement.. then IMHO.. they should be knocked out and replaced, and the seals too, and I'd still use the 0 or 00 grease and not oil.. but under no circumstances #2 or #4 grease.. I don't think I would even use #1 grease either.. simply too stiff...

    the shet metal setup on that style of tractor is as follows:

    dash, has steering column and throttle rod thru it...

    dash cowling. this is what the dash bolts to as well as the hood side pieces.

    hood panels. there is a left and right hood 'torpedo' panel that bolts to the cowling on either side and thent he dash sets on top and bolts to both the cowling and the hood side pieces... left hood side piece holds the hinged part of the hood, right side piece has the latches.

    at a bare minimum, you must remove the DASH piece. you remove the steering wheel, and disconnect the oil line, proofmeter and the ammeter connections after of course, removing battery cables. it is adviseable to remove the throttle rod, but you can get by without doing that or removing the temp gauge. there is enough play in the temp gauge cap tube to let you manipulate the dash with it in place. you then slip the dash up over the steering shaft and then angle to the right and slide it over the throttle rod, with the throttle rod aimed out to the far right. set dash up on gas tank... at this point, if needed, you could use a ratchet and extension, and unbolt the 4 bolts holding the steering column / box top on, as well as unbolt the 2 side bolts that go thru the dash COWLING and into the steering box column brackets.. the dash cowling will slump a bit .. then you could lift the column off to replace the top bearing as well as the column bushing. you COULD leave the hood side panels and cowling setting where they are.

    note, the wireing connection points and regualtor are nestled rightup there on the column, and those will have to be dealt with if still in place.

    if you are pulling the wormshaft to repalce the lower bearing, then you will need to remov ethe side covers and slip the forward sectro out so the wormshft clears.. at that point you could remove both side covers to service bushings and seals if needed, leaving the sector arms setting just inside the edges of the steering box cavity.

    a 2 jaw pittman arm puller is very usefull for pulling the sector arms off the sector shaft. the shafts have a master spline so the arms are easy to get back on in the same orientation they came off.

    depending on the obstructions and room, and tolerance for fighting with metal,and other variables.. you can do the box on the tractor or off. I usually leave them on the tractor unless repalcing the lower bearing race, in which you pretty much MUST remove the box.

    my last box job I didn't feel like dinking with it in the sun so removed it to work on on my shop bench.. though certaintly could have worked on it on the tractor if needed.

    if you are worried about scratching pain, put wide 2" masking tape alon and around bolt surfaces so in case tools slip off bolts they don't mar the finish, and mask or tape newspaper or masking paper to the parts that will be unbolted but left in place, so thet there is a layer of paper between say.. the hood metal and the loader posts..

    i usually don't worry about that as i do my repairs before any painting..e tc.

    that's about it in a nutshell.. ford ag model steering repair 101 1948-1964, and a couple others till they changed the box a lil with some sector retainers under the covers, and ov course the row crop single arm boxes.

    not much else I can do other than turn the wrenches for ya.

    soundguy




    Quote Originally Posted by george46 View Post
    Would like to clarify a few things: Where you say the sector arms may not have to come all the way out. Pull side covers and slide them in enough to clear ballnut. What cide covers and ballnut are you referring to? Part # 1 "cover assy"? Plus I don't see a ballnut listed!
    Also you refer to oir & grease in the steering box! I couldn't find anywhere to put oil in it but it has a greese fitting. I assumed it only gets grease. Am I missing something here? I filled it with grease until it wouldn't take anymore. However now I have noticed grease leaking out from the right side sector shaft seal.
    I'm assuming the hood pannels must be removed. That is quite a challenge and almost requires two people since it has a front end loader due to the close clearance of some apparatus which easly scratches the hood pannels that I had repainted. Even with two people it requires extreme patience and care. Although not impossible.
    I'm working in a spacious garage so the concern for shade is not an issue. If it is possible to repair on the tractor,that sounds like my prefference.Unless you highly advise otherwise.
    Back to the pert that I mentioned the right sector seal leaking grease I would assume that is an issue that would require replacing the seal and most likely the bearing being the cause. Your opinion?
    And thanks again so much for your time and advise. And of course your patience with my inexperience.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    That puts things in better perspective. Thanks so much for the thorough explanation.

  10. #10
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ford 800 hard steering to left

    post back what ya find.

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