JD L118 won't turn over

[HarveyDog]

My JD L118 won't turn over. I've been starting it with a battery charger. I attach the charger and it tries to turn over. Then I hear an audible "click" and it won't turn over at all.

I disconnect the charger and wait. In about ten second I hear another audible click and it will turn over again. But it never starts.

Any idea what's going on?

The reason I'm using the charger is that my battery always dies. I'm tired of buying batteries. So I think it's safe to assume my alternator is dead. But an alternator isn't involved in starting the L118, so the starting issue must mean I need to replace something else.

Can someone point out what that part would be or how to troubleshoot this?

Thanks so much. This forum is wonderful. -Harv

[jinman]

If your battery is dead, that charger may not be able to supply enough starting current. If it's a starter with a 50-amp starting position, I would set it aside and use a real battery to jumpstart the mower. I'm not sure whether your charger or mower is "clicking." My charger can only supply high current for a few seconds and then it clicks and shuts down as a protective feature. In a few seconds, it will click and put out power again. Are you sure your click was in the L118 or was it maybe in the charger?

BTW: I accidently found your post. If you look down the list of forums, you'll find a John deere Lawn & Garden forum that is much more appropriate for your question and likely to bring lots more suggestions from knowledgable folks. Your post here is okay, but for the best help, I'd post in the JD forum.

[Carl_NH]

Welcome to TBN Harvey Dog.

I beleive you have a B&S 22 HP Intek engine in that correct? There is a de-compression starting system in the B&S engines that slightly opens the valves at startup.

I agree with Jinman hook up to another battery of have a charger for 50amps at least. If you have done this then look at the valves next.

Depending on the number of hours (over 150-200) your valves may need to be adjusted. Take off the hood, remove the spark plugs, remove the valve covers and turn the engine over by hand until you reach top dead center on each cylinder.

BTW get a feeler gauge before you start this process. The valve lash/gap should be .004-.006" on both valves typcially. If they are close to that say .007-.008" thats not a big deal. But if they are .015 or .020 (20 thousands of an inch) this can cause the decompression not to work or minimaly so it will crank then stop.

[HarveyDog]

Thanks guys. I'll re-post under the JD forum as per suggestion. I know that a lot of sites don't like "double posting" but I guess it's ok here.

The click probably *is* from the charger. Good advice. We're camping this week so it'll be a while till I'm home to check it out and report back. Thanks a lot tho.

Harv