Don't know where to start looking on my ford 1520

[Hooked_on_HP]

Have the tires from the 1720 been on the 1520 for 13 years or did you just switch them recently. Tractor data shows the two tractors take different size tires.
Bill

 

[acmemachine]

I have had these tires 13 years. They were a matched set off a 1720 4wd. I put my ags back on and have same problem. It is more than friction. It's almost like the brake is on. Front spindle turn fine when disengaged.

 

[Short Game]

I've got a 95 ford 1520 4wd. If I push the clutch to coast there is quite a bit of drag and it brings me to a stop kinda like the brake is on. Its not as hard as hittin the brake but hard enough to be a real concern. If I disengage the 4wd all is fine. Tractor still pulls good in 4wd. Does anybody have an idea as to where I start looking for this problem?

I would describe my 2010 R4010 LS about the same. I read somewhere here on TBN that there is a slight stagger in the back to front gear ratios to make the front lead slightly, so I assumed that was what I was experiencing. Whatever the case, the coasting drag is substantially more than I had with my old 4WD Cub Cadet. I'm going to make a comparison now between 4WD and 2WD. This thread has me curious.

 

[Short Game]

Well, I tried it, and a slope that has the tractor stopping its coast in 4wd, lets it coast in 2WD. The difference isn't what I'd call extreme, but it's easily noticeable. I mow on lots of off-level ground and I often like to coast backwards when making a 'Y' turn if the slope is right. A lot of times, the slope I'd hoped would get me backing into position isn't steep enough, and I have to shift to reverse to complete the turn. I'm nearly always in 4WD, as it's what feels safe where I work, so I've noticed often that it doesn't really want to coast unless it's pretty steep.

So, can anyone comment on the gear ratio biases I mentioned in the prior post? Did I really read that, or am I just imagining it?