Old Craftsman riding mower won't start

[chipsndust]

I'm trying to help a neighbor with his mower. It hadn't been run for a while (about a month) because it needed a drive new belt. We replaced the belt, and it wouldn't start.
The mower was running fine when he parked it (except the drive belt was so worn, the mower wouldn't engage).
Here's what we've tried, and now we're stuck:

Checked the in line fuse in the start circuit.
Located, tested, and temporarily jumpered safety switches for seat, brake/clutch, and mower drive.
Checked that the battery is good and fully charged.
Cleaned battery terminals and all the ground connections we could find.
Replaced solenoid (thought that was the problem because when we shorted across the posts, the engine cranked).

The mower should start, driver in the seat, brake fully depressed, mower disengaged, but when we turn the key we get nothing.
Acts like an open in the start circuit, but we eliminated safety switches as the problem.

Has anyone had this problem? Can you think of something we're missing?

 

[grsthegreat]

Have you tried to jump across the key switch wire terminals??

 

[chipsndust]

Thanks for the reply grs

No, I'll give that a try. There is a connector on the back of the switch, but the switch cannot be disassembled for cleaning. I'll try pulling the connector and jumpering there.

 

[Soundguy]

do it the easy way.. just jumper from where the wire comes from to where it goes. no fussing with the connector.

soundguy

 

[chipsndust]

Thanks, Soundguy

We'll give that a try.

 

[Soundguy]

post back what ya find.

soundguy

 

[chipsndust]

post back what ya find.

soundguy

Thanks for the suggestions.

It turned out to be a bad wire (Chafing? mice?).

We checked to see if we were getting 12 volts where the wire from the solenoid lands on the switch, and it read about 5 volts (?!?).

We did a continuity check on the wire, and it showed some resistance.

We found a spot where the insulation was missing. We replaced the wire and put in a new in-line fuse and socket.

Of course, once we got it started, we discovered a hole in the carburetor bowl. The previous JB Weld repair lasted all summer, but finally failed. I plugged it this time a small bolt, nut and nylon washers.

If it doesn't rain tomorrow, I expect I'll hear him giving it a workout.

 

[Soundguy]

now that you have it plugged like that.. spray clean with carb cleaner, and then do a jb weld repair on it again. jb weld is fuel resistant once cured.. I have a MS carb on an 8n that has a crack in the inlet that has had jbweld dabbed intot he crack and not leaking for about 13 years.

I one day play on soldering it up.. just havn't needed to yet..

soundguy