deutz f3l1011
- Thread starter jizagui
- Start date
Your engine likely has a blown head gasket. The Deutz engines like yours use engine oil for coolant. There's a coolant jacket that surrounds the upper area of the engine cylinders, and passages exist for cooling oil to flow around inside the cylinder head also.
Like a more conventional cooling system that uses an antifreeze solution, the *coolant* is pumped around through the engine's coolant passages and then through a heat exchanger....then back through the engine again. One big difference between more conventional cooling systems and the Deutz, is the coolant's pressure. The engine oil that's being pumped throughout your engine, is being pumped at whatever the engine's oil pressure is.
The reason you see "raw oil" coming out of your exhaust, is that oil under pressure is being pushed into the cylinder through the blown part of the gasket whenever the engine's stroke position allows oil pressure to overcome internal cylinder pressure.
We've replaced a few Deutz head gaskets on the 3 and 4 cylinder versions of this engine. It's an easy job to do. When you go to buy a replacement gasket, you'll need to take note of which gasket you need. They're identified by counting the notches in the corner of the gasket itself. There are three different thickness head gaskets available for your engine. Installing the proper one is essential because the piston's protrusion above the block deck is compensated for by the proper gasket.
(Don't run the engine near anything until you get it fixed. The oil that's going through the cylinders is getting *burned* a bit before it gets expelled from the exhaust. Diesel oil is black enough already, but when it gets into the cylinder and is partially ignited, it gets really messy and difficult to remove from nearby vehicles, windows, buildings, etc.)
Like a more conventional cooling system that uses an antifreeze solution, the *coolant* is pumped around through the engine's coolant passages and then through a heat exchanger....then back through the engine again. One big difference between more conventional cooling systems and the Deutz, is the coolant's pressure. The engine oil that's being pumped throughout your engine, is being pumped at whatever the engine's oil pressure is.
The reason you see "raw oil" coming out of your exhaust, is that oil under pressure is being pushed into the cylinder through the blown part of the gasket whenever the engine's stroke position allows oil pressure to overcome internal cylinder pressure.
We've replaced a few Deutz head gaskets on the 3 and 4 cylinder versions of this engine. It's an easy job to do. When you go to buy a replacement gasket, you'll need to take note of which gasket you need. They're identified by counting the notches in the corner of the gasket itself. There are three different thickness head gaskets available for your engine. Installing the proper one is essential because the piston's protrusion above the block deck is compensated for by the proper gasket.
(Don't run the engine near anything until you get it fixed. The oil that's going through the cylinders is getting *burned* a bit before it gets expelled from the exhaust. Diesel oil is black enough already, but when it gets into the cylinder and is partially ignited, it gets really messy and difficult to remove from nearby vehicles, windows, buildings, etc.)
Don87
Elite Member
regio sanchez
New member
i have a deutz f3l1011, how to change the timing belt, i need the service manual for the timning belts, thanks for the help, if there are any person to speak spanish thanks.
atgreene
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I have the 5 cyl in a front end loader. Just ordered a complete rebuild kit from Dr. Diesel of Foley Engine in Mass. Worth a search on Ebay, that is where I found him.
To properly time these engines, you should buy or rent the timing pins....look on eBay by entering keywords like "Deutz timing pins".
One of the pins goes into a hole near the rear of the engine block, on the side. (There are threaded plugs for both of the timing pin holes that take a 10 mm socket to remove.) It threads into the hole once the camshaft is turned into its proper position. The other pin goes on the opposite side of the block near the front. It doesn't fit into a machined hole in the crankshaft like the other pin holding the camshaft does, it touches against the crankshaft when the crank is in the proper position.
Once the crank and cam are in the proper position, the belt can be put on and tensioned with the offset idler. The pins are then removed, and the engine is turned over a couple of revolutions by hand....and the timing is checked again. That's it really.
One huge caveat though, if your belt broke WHILE the engine was running, the valves WILL have hit the pistons. The pushrods are the weakest link, and they'll likely be bent. The valves and pistons should be fine.
Just did a four cylinder version of this same engine yesterday. Start to finish to replace the belt and bent pushrods, adjust the valves and start it up was about 1 1/2 hours. But I've done several of them.
One more thing, you'll need to remove the crank pulley to get the new belt on. ONLY remove the outer bolts that hold the pulley onto the crank snout. DO NOT loosen the large center bolt. There's no keyway like most engines have. The crank sprocket is held in its proper position by the tension on the center bolt. If you loosen or remove the center bolt you'll have to start from scratch with the timing procedure. Not a huge thing to do if you have the timing pins already, but lots of people have tried to replace the timing belt WITHOUT the timing pins by holding everything in place and slipping the new belt on. It can be done, but if the crank sprocket's large bolt is loosened, the crank sprocket's position on the crankshaft will change....