You advised a Machine Shop was close by, see if they have any Roll Emery Paper. Most Roll Emery paper is one inch wide, but new purchases comes in fifty yard rolls. It comes in 220 and 320 grit, good grits for what you want to do. An old engine repairs person years ago showed me how to use the roll type emery paper to polish a crank. He took a one inch wide strip, three foot long. He split the strip with scissors to have two one half inch strips. He then made one complete loop around the crankshaft with one of the one half inch strips. He pulled on each end in a back and forth motion. Polish pressure on the crank was constant all the way around the crank. He polished a mirror surface on the crank in a few minutes.
Seized engine? Need some advice.
- Thread starter Kernopelli
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Kernopelli
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- Mitsubishi MTE2000D, Dig It 258 Mini Ex, Deere Z930A ZTR
Gary, I'll definitely do as you advise. Appreciate the input!
Chris, I have given that a lot of consideration and is a strong option. It would be quick and simple and give me plenty of time to rebuild the original motor. I still need to call TBN member Bruce Laten and see if he has a K3F in stock still. I know he had a K3E (which would be fine, that's what CIH had Mitsubishi put in the U.S. version of this tractor) and a K3F (stock Japanese spec. engine for my model) earlier in the year and I'd rather do business with him if I can and him living within easy driving distance is a real plus too.
Gator, Exactly the method I had in mind. I stopped at Lowes this morning because I had bought some 400 grit there last summer for some lathe work. I picked up the last roll they had this A.M. then strolled through the chain section. They had a partial bucket of Gr.43 3/8" chain for 70 cents a foot (reg. $3.87 ft.) I bought the 39' piece left in the bucket for $27.30 :thumbsup:. 82% off on some new chain makes me smile even when I'm tired and bummed out about my tractor!
Chris, I have given that a lot of consideration and is a strong option. It would be quick and simple and give me plenty of time to rebuild the original motor. I still need to call TBN member Bruce Laten and see if he has a K3F in stock still. I know he had a K3E (which would be fine, that's what CIH had Mitsubishi put in the U.S. version of this tractor) and a K3F (stock Japanese spec. engine for my model) earlier in the year and I'd rather do business with him if I can and him living within easy driving distance is a real plus too.
Gator, Exactly the method I had in mind. I stopped at Lowes this morning because I had bought some 400 grit there last summer for some lathe work. I picked up the last roll they had this A.M. then strolled through the chain section. They had a partial bucket of Gr.43 3/8" chain for 70 cents a foot (reg. $3.87 ft.) I bought the 39' piece left in the bucket for $27.30 :thumbsup:. 82% off on some new chain makes me smile even when I'm tired and bummed out about my tractor!
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Kernopelli
Veteran Member
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Well.....got some time off to put towards the tractor. I tried polishing the crank in block but wasn't pleased with the results. There was a little more bearing material on the crank than I suspected and being intermittently dispersed around the crank, I was worried that I would start removing crank surface in areas before removing all the residual bearing material. Working in the confined area didn't help things. After an hour of carefully working different grits I decided I'd never be satisfied with my results while attempting to do it this way.
I now have the tractor split and pulled the engine. Next thing will be complete disasembly including pulling the crank and taking it to a local machine shop. I'm going to check out all internals for wear,etc. while I have it apart and try to determine what caused the failure. I did contact Bruce Laten about getting a K3F or K3E from him and he has neither in stock currently and doesn't expect any soon. As long as parts and labor are under $1200 I'll rebuild this engine. If it looks like it's going to exceed that, I'm going to have one shipped from overseas for a few hundred more.
I now have the tractor split and pulled the engine. Next thing will be complete disasembly including pulling the crank and taking it to a local machine shop. I'm going to check out all internals for wear,etc. while I have it apart and try to determine what caused the failure. I did contact Bruce Laten about getting a K3F or K3E from him and he has neither in stock currently and doesn't expect any soon. As long as parts and labor are under $1200 I'll rebuild this engine. If it looks like it's going to exceed that, I'm going to have one shipped from overseas for a few hundred more.
evan price
Silver Member
One thought I had- vaguely recall from several years ago- we had a truck that wound up seizing up similar to what you describe, it was being loaded onto a tilt-bed trailer while running. The operator had a problem with the winch on the trailer and left the rig while he went to find parts. When he got back the truck had stalled. Turned out motor was seized. It had starved for oil due to the incline the truck was sitting at. Is it possible the trailer had it tilted just right so that the motor had oil feed problems?
bruce1966us
Platinum Member
I have 2 K3E engines in at the present time.
Kozzy49
New member
Since you already have the pan down use a light and take a close look at the remaining bearings. If you see on ethe looks like it has heat discoloration, or you see metal filings take that cap off and look to see if the bearings have turned.
If everything looks good, take off the valve cover and back off the rocker arms, if one of the valves does not return to full height, you have a seized valve. If these all check out okay, you can take off the front cover and look at a seized camshaft (very rare). To confirm, remove timing gear on cam. Place washers on camshaft bolt (do not want to damage threads). See if you can turn camshaft , be careful when turning camshaft, even though you backed off rocker arms it is possible to bend a valve if you get to aggressive.
If everything looks good, take off the valve cover and back off the rocker arms, if one of the valves does not return to full height, you have a seized valve. If these all check out okay, you can take off the front cover and look at a seized camshaft (very rare). To confirm, remove timing gear on cam. Place washers on camshaft bolt (do not want to damage threads). See if you can turn camshaft , be careful when turning camshaft, even though you backed off rocker arms it is possible to bend a valve if you get to aggressive.
buickanddeere
Super Member
Low to no oil flow due to slow idle speed and being parked on a slope ?
Kozzy49
New member
During normal operation it is unusual for your engine to be on a slope of over 15º for more than a few seconds. Equipment that is designed to be on a slope for an extended period have a specialized double ump and pick up system than employs check balls so that oil is always drawn from the sump that is on the down hill side.
Your regular tractor motor may not have been designed for steep slope operation and leaving the unit running for an extended period may have caused the pickup screen to be partially out of the oil leading to a lubrication starvation situation.
Your regular tractor motor may not have been designed for steep slope operation and leaving the unit running for an extended period may have caused the pickup screen to be partially out of the oil leading to a lubrication starvation situation.