Tips on installing new bearing races please.

[HCJtractor]

I am rebuilding the hubs on some coulters. The races are old and questionable so since I have new ones, I guess I should go ahead and replace them. One race came out with some tapping after heating the hub and cooling the race. The other has no "purchase point" to tap, so I will try the weld a bead method and see how that works. If not, I will slice it with a Dremmel.

My main question before I take all these out is how to reinstall. I will heat the hubs and then maybe cool the races with dry ice, or in the freezer. Do I lube the internal aspect of the hub before trying to press or tap them in? Is it better to use a hammer or a arbor press? Just how do you guys install these without damaging anything? Any tips would be appreciated. I don't want to screw up the hubs or new races.

 

[Canada_CT230]

When I rebuilt the rear differential in my truck there were bearings on the pinion shaft and in the diff housing.

I heated the old bearing on the shaft with a propane torch and it fell right off. To install the new one I placed it in the toaster oven and heated it. It slipped right on and there was no hammering or pressing.

You could put the bearing into the freezer and heat the coulter bearing housing. It should slip right in.

The less you abuse the bearings the better the bearing will perform and last.

 

[Johnp33]

Removing the race I always weld on them, one bead all the way around I use 3/32 at 90 amps, do the outer race first, and turn the hub and do the other one. Many times, the outer race will have fallen out.
Putting them in you want to clean the hub as clean as posible, then I spray the hub with penetrating oil. I use an old 3/4 square long Craftsman chisel ground in an ark to install it. I do not heat the hubs or freeze the cup.
Never had a problem!

 

[Craig Clayton]

I have been in the past replacing many deep groove roller ball bearings on electric motors. Most of these are on 1 1/2" through to 2" shaft sizes.

I have been heating them on an electric induction heater until they are hot to the touch ( assume you have working hands ). I do not know the actual temperature because
when they are HOT they slide on the shaft when dropped in a vertical action with a clunk.

I have found heat expands the bearings better than cold does to shrink the shaft.

The smaller the bearing 6203 2RS1 C3 aka 17mm do not expand enough with heat just press them.

All my motors have run thousands of hours.

Craig Clayton

 

[Johnp33]

When installing bearings on a shaft we used the sonic heaters, till they smoked and then installed them with no effort.
When installing a ring gear on a flywheel I use an oven to heat the ring for 1/2 hour.
Many times the hubs were put in the power wash, that heated them up, and after spraying them with solvent I would assemble the cups. They normally go in a lot easier than they come out, even when cold.

 

[HCJtractor]

I heated one and then cooled the race and with lots of hammering, finally got one out, but the other one just has no place to get a punch to grab. So I tried the weld a bead method and man, that works great. As a beginner welder I was afraid I would screw something up, but it was so easy. Like you guys said, the races just about fell out! Thanks for the tip!

 

[Johnp33]

The welding trick when working with Aluminum hubs should be mandated as driving them out seems to stretch the hub.
That is how all of us learn we listen to what people say, BUT you must filter all information threw your own experience, and chose what you feel safe with.

 

[dfkrug]

Do I lube the internal aspect of the hub before trying to press or tap them in? Is it better to use a hammer or a arbor press? Just how do you guys install these without damaging anything?

I use lube always, and a press where I can. If I need to hammer them
in, then I use a pipe to help get it on squarely.

I just removed a tough 3" roller bearing race on a rototiller last night. It
was the inside type with very limited access and no lip behind it for
puller purchase. I thought about heating up the whole outer casing, but
that would take a while and there was still nothing to pull on. I knew
that if nothing else worked, I could remove the shaft (very difficult),
weld a plate across the open end of the race, then pound it out from the
backside. I ended up using a plasma cutter to make a notch, and it came
right out.

For outside roller bearing races (as on car axles), I like to grind a notch
in them, then break them out with a cold chisel. Works well most of the
time.

 

[KWentling]

I use WD40 on the shaft and housings. Manufactures recommend no more than 250˚F on the bearing. Using a freezer or dry ice to shrink the cups is good. Avoid striking the bearing with a hardened punch or chisel because you can bruise and deform the race. Especially easy to damage a tapered cup because they are so thin. I use a brass punch or mild keystock for driving those if I can't heat or freeze, or if I get stuck. Also use them to seat the bearings when the temperatures has equalized. A press is also good for installing bearings.

Kim

 

[Johnp33]

I have used the Craftsman chisel for 40 years it is hard enough to stay in shape, but soft enough that it does not hurt anything. I have damaged extensions, that I use if needed. Were I worked we had a fancy bearing cup installer, I found they did much more damage that good especially for the price.