8 HP Briggs & Stratton thrown con-rod

[John47]

A short block is cheaper than a full engine, you have the carby, fuel tank, fly wheel etc.

 

[5030]

I would never own anything but a Honda with Kawasaki coming in a close. I've had 2 Briggs take a dump on me. The Kolar engine on my tiller was put into service in 1973 and starts on the 3 pull and runs great.

The newer Kohlers and the older Kohlers are 2 distinctly different animals. Older is better. Newer is on par with Briggs and that's not good.

I have a 30 year old K241 on my Lincoln welder that will outlast me. You can't beat American made cast iron.

Honda is the best of pot metal engines, good engineering and oil lubrication. Kawasaki isn't bad. Interestingly, the Kawasaki engines are made here, in this country.

 

[evan price]

Good thing is that parts for the Briggs aluminum engines are everywhere. IF you could locate a parts motor with a good bottom end (maybe an oil burner) you could build a good motor for nearly no cost but some time. Otherwise, the parts cost for new parts would be pointless.

There's a place called "Small Engine Warehouse" that sells new, new take-off and scratch & dent motors online.

Small Engine Warehouse - Repower Outdoor Power Equipment

Good news is most of these motors are generally the same bolt pattern and shaft length & diameter so you can make nearly anything fit if you have the skills.

 

[5030]

Good thing is that parts for the Briggs aluminum engines are everywhere. IF you could locate a parts motor with a good bottom end (maybe an oil burner) you could build a good motor for nearly no cost but some time. Otherwise, the parts cost for new parts would be pointless.

There's a place called "Small Engine Warehouse" that sells new, new take-off and scratch & dent motors online.

Small Engine Warehouse - Repower Outdoor Power Equipment

Good news is most of these motors are generally the same bolt pattern and shaft length & diameter so you can make nearly anything fit if you have the skills.

Necessary skills for a Briggs rebuild are vice grips. Crescent Wrench (adjustable open end wrench) and a ball pien hammer preferrably one of some weight.:laughing:

 

[NormL]

Good thing is that parts for the Briggs aluminum engines are everywhere. IF you could locate a parts motor with a good bottom end (maybe an oil burner) you could build a good motor for nearly no cost but some time. Otherwise, the parts cost for new parts would be pointless.

There's a place called "Small Engine Warehouse" that sells new, new take-off and scratch & dent motors online.

Small Engine Warehouse - Repower Outdoor Power Equipment

Good news is most of these motors are generally the same bolt pattern and shaft length & diameter so you can make nearly anything fit if you have the skills.

Since I have some time before this roto needs to be garden - ready, the parts engine idea is what I am concentrating on, while keeping an eye out for a serviceable 9 or 10 HP unit. Thanks for the link. I'm guessing by the time I got one of those engines across the border into Canada, it may have cost as much as what I can buy it for locally.

 

[studor]

I have an old Gilson snowblower with an 8 HP B&S that I picked up for $30 at an auction that just seems to keep running.
I would just keep an eye out for a similar engine on an older piece of equipment or go the PA route. I always read that this make or that make is a POS but have found if you check the oil frequently and change it often and run reasonable gas through them they all seem to last a long time. I have just about all makes of small engines in my "collection" accumulated from discards and auctions. Most problems have been resolved with a carb rebuild from crappy old gas and an oil change. More serious issues like your problem I just replace the whole unit because most of the small engine manufacturers want a small fortune for spare parts in Canada. You could try ebay or kijiji for parts or replacement as well. The chinese PA engines I have have been fine although they all seem to run hot. JMHO