Knock

   / Knock #11  
You need to get a job at a dealership. In two hours you dropped the pan and pulled the pistons.:thumbsup:

Not sure what to tell you now, with the sound you said it was making what you should have found was loose cap nuts on a connecting rod on an 80 hour machine thats knocking.
 
   / Knock #12  
I also have all pistons out and all bushings on connecting rods are just like new.

At this point, since you have the engine pretty much torn down, I suggest you check the main bearing clearances with Plasti-Gage (Genuine Plastigauge - How It Works)

With 80 hours...well, I'd have had the dealer sort it out...you disassembling the engine could have voided any warranty you may have.
Assuming the engine was assembled with all new components, it appears there may be an assembly problem (that can be a big problem with Chinese made equipment).

Anyway, check the mains with that plasti-gage. I hope you have a manual so you know what the clearances should be.
 
   / Knock #13  
Another little tip:

Never ever start 2 different threads on the same problem, several weeks apart. It makes it impossible to follow, and to give accurate advice.

You still have not answered some questions from the first thread as well as this new one.
 
   / Knock #14  
At this point, since you have the engine pretty much torn down, I suggest you check the main bearing clearances with Plasti-Gage (Genuine Plastigauge - How It Works)

With 80 hours...well, I'd have had the dealer sort it out...you disassembling the engine could have voided any warranty you may have.Assuming the engine was assembled with all new components, it appears there may be an assembly problem (that can be a big problem with Chinese made equipment).

Anyway, check the mains with that plasti-gage. I hope you have a manual so you know what the clearances should be.
According to the first thread he started there is no warranty on his tractor:


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/232258-knock.html


I found the first thread after doing a 'farm pro'search.
 
   / Knock #16  
He's screwed...

Thanks for the link!
He sure is.

He never answered the question about knocking location using the broom handle, nor the question of metal in the oil using a white piece of paper. I also asked in this thread about the 'shiny oil'.


It really makes things difficult when trying to help from several hundred miles away, on a computer.
 
   / Knock #17  
But at the very least, I would replace all the bearings, rod and main( like Mark Page suggested), but only after following Roy's instructions.

I have to leave for work in 15 minutes, I won't be able to help anymore til next weekend when I get back from trucking. The guys in here will help, just please, do not start any new threads on this subject. Use this thread since I've linked the 2 threads togerher.


Best of luck, and keep us posted on your progress.
 
   / Knock
  • Thread Starter
#18  
No warrenty
 
   / Knock
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Just cut the oil filter apart didn't find any foreign material
 
   / Knock
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Used a stethoscope could not pinpoint any specific area of the knock slightly focused toward cylinder closest to the rear , but nothing jumped out.
 
 
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