Tiller repair help

   / Tiller repair help #1  

Anonymous Poster

New member
Joined
Sep 27, 2005
Messages
0
I need some advice on repairing my tiller. I just received my NH TC18 and the guy "threw-in" a Howard 48'' used tiller with it for next to nothing, as-is. Well, I was using it in the garden and all of a sudden, the tiller gearbox starting jumping all over the place. What happened is, all but one of the four bolts that mount the gearbox were missing and the one that was there, snapped off. I removed the gearbox tonight and drilled and tapped the three remaining holes. The snapped off bolt will not come out with an easy-out, as it's an extremely hard bolt. My question is, when I get it all back together with the three mounting bolts, should I weld the darn gearbox right to the frame? The tiller has probably a few good years left in it if everything goes right. Would welding it in place hurt anything? I will still be able to remove the side cover of the gearbox for servicing, I just won't be able to remove the gearbox itself. What do you all think?
Thank you,
Dave
 
   / Tiller repair help #2  
I'd take it to a machine shop and let them get the bolt out. If nothing else a shop with an EDM machine can destroy the bolt in place without damaging the gear box. Try to get a guaranteed cost up front. When you reinstall the gearbox use grade 8 bolts and use loctite on the threads. You get a lot of shock and vibration operating a tiller. That may have started the problem.

While you're working on the tiller check out everything. Howard makes a good unit. If it's repaired properly, you may never need another tiller.
 
   / Tiller repair help #3  
Can you drill the rest of the bolt out and retap the threads ?
 
   / Tiller repair help #4  
I really do not like saying this but Weld it and use it up.
 
   / Tiller repair help #5  
Are u handy w/ a welder?
Take a smaller nut and set on top of broken off bolt.
Take a small (3/32 or 1/8) rod and weld thru hole in nut to the top of broken bolt.
U can wrap a piece of paper around the rod to keep it from striking on the side of nut.
The heat of welding the nut on will also loosen the bolt some.
 
   / Tiller repair help #6  
You can drill the broken bolt out using a Malford Tool Co. Hi-Roc solid carbide drill bit. You can buy individual ones from Enco-- www.usenco.com. It's a lot cheaper than using an EDM (diesinker). I own a machine shop and we drill dies all the time with these drills to remove broken bolts, etc. Or you can weld it and run it till it pukes. The problem with welding is that the gearbox is probably cast, versus the structual frame. It will be hard to get a good bond between the two and you might destroy the gearbox.
 
   / Tiller repair help #7  
<font color="blue"> The problem with welding is that the gearbox is probably cast, versus the structual frame. It will be hard to get a good bond between the two and you might destroy the gearbox. </font>

Even worse, the gearbox could be cast aluminum vs the tiller which is likely steel. It aint easy (near impossible) to weld aluminum to steel.

The Howard tiller isn't a throw away. Fix it right & enjoy it for years to come. Even if you have to throw a couple hundred bucks at it, you'd have paid $1,500 + for a new one. Around here (Mass / NH) you can get machine shop labor at about $50 an hour. Don't suspect it would be any more expensive than that in the Finger Lakes.

Suggest getting in touch with the manufacturer Howard Rotovator They should be able to send you an owners manual and offer advice as to what else to check over on the machine.

Good luck & happy gardening
 
   / Tiller repair help #8  
Hazmat:

Seeing as I am still in front of the computer, I looked up the cost of Hi-Roc drills. 1/4"- $12.29, 1/2" - $21.17 with sizes in between. I'd drill the bolt and threads out going to the major diameter of the thread. Then re-tap the hole the next larger size. I'm sure that there is enough material in the casting to do that. Hi-Roc's are really neat, you can drill glass with them.

With Hi-Roc's, you need plenty of coolant at all times as well as a steady pressure on the drill. They work really well in a hand drill motor. I have a friend who is a diesel mechanic and he regularly drills out exhaust studs on Caterpillar engines. Seems as though Cat's are prone to breaking exhaust studs and the studs become brittle with the heat and cool cycles of the engine. He would go through HSS bits like water so I got him a couple of Hi-Roc's. What a happy camper. Remember though, you have to sharpen carbide on a silicon (green) wheel, a regular grinding wheel will not work.
 
   / Tiller repair help #9  
Not bad prices. I assume that they work better in a drill press than a hand drill? He should be able to get the gearbox in a drill press.
 
   / Tiller repair help #10  
They do work better in a drill press, but a hand drill motor works too. You just have to keep the bore flooded with coolant, be it oil or a water based coolant. I use Valenite VT700 synthetic in my machines so if I use one in a hand drill, I put some in a spritzer bottle and use that to keep the bit lubricated.
 
 
Top