Look on the data plate for the engine on the left side just below the cylinder heas/deck interface. Most of the Z block Continentals have the lash settings on that data plate. The recomendation in the manual will most likely recommend setting them while running. Why are you replacing the valve stem seals? Burning oil at idle?
You best wait til your manual shows up to replace the seals. I've never done them but you'll have to remove the spring on the intake valves and you'll need soemthing to keep from loosing the valve when you remove the spring. Either a special spark plug hole fitting to hold the valve with air pressure form a compressor or getting the piston near TDC so the valve doesn't drop down.
You're correct, I'm replacing the valve seals because it smokes (blue oil smoke) at startup and idle. The valves were noisy and I knew they needed adjusted so I figured I'd go ahead and replace the valve seals while I had the valve cover off.
Currently, I've got the sheetmetal and gas tank removed with the valve cover off to perform the needed work. Surprisingly, the inside of the engine, at least under the valve cover, is very clean and free of sludge, but my suspicions about the valve lash needing adjusted were correct
In fact, I've never seen valves so far out of adjustment. I looked at the data plate earlier and if memory serves, on the Continental Z-145 engine, the valve lash should be .015 cold or .013 hot, and currently the valve lash is closer to 1/8 of an inch on the valves I looked at, which tells me that the valve lash has probably never been adjusted. I'll have to turn the engine to check the rest of the valves but I have little doubt that they are the same.
When I replace the valve seals, I'm going to put each cylinder at TDC, then use compressed air to hold the valve in place before removing the spring. The valve spring keepers might be a challenge though, because they're the pin type and if memory serves, aren't the easiest to remove/replace. Having the piston at TDC will ensure that the valve doesn't drop into the cylinder if I should lose compressed air for whatever reason.
As suggested, I'm planning to wait until the shop manual arrives before doing anything more than inspection, because guesswork and engine repair usually results in disaster. I still need to purchase new valve seals so manual or not, I have to wait regardless.