Ford 640 oil & hydraulic leaks

[Soundguy]

in the base of the bellhousing is a palte and drain.. shoulf have a cotter pin dangling in it to jiggle around and keep crud from plugging the hole. if it gets plugged up.. or some well meaning previous owner pulls the plug and drills and taps the hole for a plug ( seen it! ).. then you have a buildup of oil from leaky trans input shafts and rea main seals. the oil can build up till the clutch slings it around.. and then you see it in HIGH places liek the teardrop timing cover!

[N9zez]

in the base of the bellhousing is a palte and drain.. shoulf have a cotter pin dangling in it to jiggle around and keep crud from plugging the hole. if it gets plugged up.. or some well meaning previous owner pulls the plug and drills and taps the hole for a plug ( seen it! ).. then you have a buildup of oil from leaky trans input shafts and rea main seals. the oil can build up till the clutch slings it around.. and then you see it in HIGH places liek the teardrop timing cover!

I can't seem to find it. I also think I have a bit of motor oil coming out of the back of the starter.... Below are the 2 places where I see motor oil leaking. Is the rear main seal quite a job?

[Soundguy]

you must be under the tractor looking up, looking rear of the oil pan, to the 'dry area' of the trans bellhousing, so look BETWEEN the trans drain plug and the aft of the engine oil pan. there you should find the bellhousing drain.

if you are getting oil out the teardrop cover and the starter mounting point, the bellhousing is very full!!!! and you need to correct that post haste befor ethe clutch is ruined.. though it may already be!!!!

rear main? it's well.. work.

can drop the pan and whatnot after cussing the front bolts... sneaky pete might get it done for ya.. etc...

but you gotta get that bellhousing drain open before you do ANYTHING else... and make sure that you have not overfilled the trans. will only make the input shaft seal leak MORE.. there is a level plug on the right side aft of the trans....

[N9zez]

I will check for the drain plug tomorrow. When I filled the trans, hydro and rear, I removed the level fill plug on all 3. Engine oil is next but the square nut on the drain plug is mighty rounded and proving difficult to remove. I've already got a replacement so damaging it further isn't a worrie.

[Soundguy]

pipe wrench and a floor jack.. chissle.. or weld a big hex nut on it to put a wrench on..

if you use the chissle.. stay int he flange and out of the parent metal of the tank.

ont he jack and pipe wrench.. use jack to hole a piece of wood holding wrench on the head.. that usually gets it.

most reasons they round out is because prev owner was too cheap to make a free gasket out of gasket paper to put under cap and instead glued it on with permatex.. or just tightened it like a mountain gorilla to make it quit leaking....

post back

[N9zez]

I can't find this drain plug to save my life. You don't happen to have a picture do ya?

[Soundguy]

which drain plug are you refering to? rear end fluid? hyd fluid? trans fluid? engine oil?

they should be quite obvious unless there is 1" of gunk on the bottom of your tractor??

be specific.. helps to answer the questions..

[N9zez]

Bell housing drain that we were talking about. The one with the cotter pin. Can't find it to save my life!

[Soundguy]

it's not a drain plug.. it's a HOLE in the bottom of the cavity.

celan it off down there and start looking for a flat area.. if it's covered with an inch of mud, you'll never find it.