Spindle Rebuild?

   / Spindle Rebuild? #1  

piratesignal

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Joined
May 5, 2011
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Does anyone know if these spindles can be disassembled? I want to replace bearings, but can't see how these come apart.

The deck is a 2008, 54" John Deere.

Thx for any assistance!
 

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   / Spindle Rebuild?
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Got the spindle apart! Next need to remove/replace bearings. More pics on the way.

Special Thx to SandburRanch for the excellent instructions on how to do this!
 

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   / Spindle Rebuild?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
So I got the bearings out no problem. However, finding the replacements is going to take a little work. My JD Dealer only sells one of the two bearings. O'Rielly Auto has them, but they are $11, and $13 dollars. The local farm supply and Hardware Stores don't offer them.

Peer 6203, GX20818 (top bearing)
Peer 6203, GX21510 (botttom bearing)

If anyone has a good online source, please let me know. If I can find a good price, I will do all three spindles, and not just the bad one.

Thx for any assistance!
 

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   / Spindle Rebuild? #4  
Pirate

Amazon has them it appears if this is the size you need.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Designation-Double-Sealed-Bearings/dp/B002IADEHG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1335385934&sr=1-3-fkmr0]Amazon.com: 17mm Nom I.D., 40mm Nom. O.D., 12mm Wide, 6203 Bearing Designation, Double Sealed, Metric Single Row Radial, Ball Bearings (1 Each): Industrial & Scientific[/ame]

Bearings
Buy new : $2.77 6203-2NSE Nachi Bearing 17x40x12 Sealed C3 Japan Ball Bearings
 
   / Spindle Rebuild? #5  
G'day should be an off the shelf brg for any brg co may not be the same mfr but nothing unusual. When buying brgs do not be tempted to go for the cheapest around some are absolute rubbish :mad:, we often get people coming in saying " I can get that alot cheaper " and I tell them to go for it I won't sell junk.



Jon
 
   / Spindle Rebuild? #6  
2nd on doing all three while you're at it. Next year you'll thank yourself. Best luck.
Jim
 
   / Spindle Rebuild? #7  
Does anyone know if these spindles can be disassembled? I want to replace bearings, but can't see how these come apart.

The deck is a 2008, 54" John Deere.

Thx for any assistance!

Those have got to be the worst spindle for bearing failure. Have a customer that went through 3 sets in the first 500 hours. Have changed more than I want to count. Have had a few that cracked the housing when removing the lower bearings also.
 
   / Spindle Rebuild?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Those have got to be the worst spindle for bearing failure. Have a customer that went through 3 sets in the first 500 hours. Have changed more than I want to count. Have had a few that cracked the housing when removing the lower bearings also.

Yes, I think the problem is that the top bearing is sealed, so it won't accept grease. The bottom bearing is open to the spindle cavity (but sealed to the outside), and all three of these bearings are fine.

I am thinking about using the bottom bearing type for the top as well. That way, both bearings would be open to the spindle cavity and would accept grease.

If anyone sees a reason I shouldn't do this, please let me know.

Also, there was a comment here about 'junk' bearings. Yes, most of the stuff I have found on Ebay and such had plastic seals and stuff. I plan to spend about $10 per bearing (only need three, just top bearings are bad).
 
   / Spindle Rebuild? #9  
The grease will find the path of least resistance (out the bottom) so technically, if the top of the spindle housing was air tight, you could end up with an air bubble in the top of the housing (leaving the top bearing dry) and all of the grease would leak out around the bottom bearing.

Unless you can wrap twine around the bottom shaft where it exits the spindle (to prevent grease escaping out the bottom) and force grease up through the top bearing, I say that you should use a sealed bearing on top- it will get the least wear of the two anyway.
 
   / Spindle Rebuild?
  • Thread Starter
#10  
The grease will find the path of least resistance (out the bottom) so technically, if the top of the spindle housing was air tight, you could end up with an air bubble in the top of the housing (leaving the top bearing dry) and all of the grease would leak out around the bottom bearing.

Unless you can wrap twine around the bottom shaft where it exits the spindle (to prevent grease escaping out the bottom) and force grease up through the top bearing, I say that you should use a sealed bearing on top- it will get the least wear of the two anyway.

Thank you for your reply. You did a good job of summarizing the concerns I had in the back of my mind. I don't think the 'open top bearing' idea would work. Gravity alone would draw grease away from it, and operating temperature would only excel that effect.

I have inspected/re-packed the lower bearings. I think I will just purchase high-quality, sealed top bearings (about $10 a piece) and fill the spindle cavity with as much moly/graphite grease as it will take.

If I end up doing the top bearings again next year, well I've had some practice now so probably a couple of hours...tops.

Thanks again for your response.
 
 
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