PTO shaft broke

[trisr]

I have a Kodiak Rotary Cutter Medium Duty and I just broke the PTO shaft. See picture. I live in Panama, so getting parts takes a while. I want to know if I can weld this, or if I should buy a new part. If I need to buy a new part, does it need to be the whole PTO shaft or just the sleeve that broke? Where is a good place to buy? Sorry for all these questions. It's my first tractor and I have only used it for 30 hours. I bought everything used. I think the PTO shaft was already damaged, because I was only cutting grass when the thing broke!

Thanks

 

[abeal]

You should be able to take it to a machine shop where they can replace the shaft.

 

[trisr]

Thanks for your reply, abeal. Is this a universal shaft, or unique to Kodiak implements? Is there a place online where I could just order a new shaft?

 

[devildog1]

No this is a standard pto drive shaft just make sure your measurements on end that goes to spline on cutter is correct, also the length. You do not have to go to Kodiak to match it up, however it does look a shorter then it should be for the amount of shaft engaged into one another.By looking at picture it only looks like it was engaged with the other half about a 3" should be about 6" or so if I remember correctly.
Devildog

 

[trisr]

Thanks devildog1. I was looking at Farm Equipment, Mower Parts, Tractor Parts, Garden Supplies | Agri Supply and they have a lot of PTO parts. This for example: 1523801 #2 External Tubing 59-W/2 Decal-Eurocardan Is that about what I need?

 

[banjodunn]

G'day that has failed due to being too short, you need a longer shaft it should be engaged a foot or better when running. Just got to make sure that it does not bind up when you lift the 3pl. I always try to get the machine on the linkage and lift it till the pto shaft on the tractor and the shaft on the machine are level ( at their closest points ) and cut the shaft so I have got about 1" clearance when I uncouple the shaft this way I know I have enough clearance when the shaft is attached.

I would not weld that I would replace, there are alot of Pto shafts available aftermarket just measure up and go with one of them


Jon

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you can find the exact same shaft configuration and size, you could grind off the weld at the U-joint, remove the old shaft and add a new one. It does appear to be a tad short so new measurements are in order to make a new one at least 3" longer from the looks of it, but do the measurements as already posted.
The whole shaft looks a bit undersized. If I were to buy new, I would go with a bigger, slightly more robust unit. Just have to make sure the end that attaches to your mower and tractor are the same. Tractor should be std PTO sized but mower gear box shaft might be any size so you would have to mike that to get accurate sizing. It needs to fit snugly.

You might find a machine shop that could cut both ends from the u-joints, put in larger or just heavier wall shaft material on both ends for less than you can buy in USA & ship to Panama. I dont know what you have locally, but most foreign countries I have worked (I have worked in a lot of them too) are very resourceful in fixing things to work as good or better than the original. Americans may make fun of some of the things that are done that would make an OSHA inspector faint dead off, but they get the job done and most times are able to walk away unharmed.

 

[trisr]

Thanks for the reply guys. I will see what a machine shop can do for me before I order any parts from the USA. Shipping & importation costs are expensive.

 

[RoyJackson]

Thanks for the reply guys. I will see what a machine shop can do for me before I order any parts from the USA. Shipping & importation costs are expensive.

The machine shop would probably have to replace the shaft...actually, both the male and female shafts.
Due to the slip fit (so the drive shaft can telescope) and the rotational stresses, I don't think any kind of weld repair would be adequate, or safe.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think you may have misread my post ROY, I was not suggesting that they cut the shaft and butweld it, but to remove the whole shaft and weld a new on to the U-joint yoke and make it longer and heavier in the process. It looks to me like that shaft is pretty weakly made from likely twin tubing pieces rather than a pieces of solid bar stock for the male and heavy tubing female section.
I'm sure the local shops can fix him up with a replacement shaft material welded on to his u-joints that will work. He just needs them to make it a bit longer this time so the overlap is more