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  1. #11
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    1
    Location
    zanesville,ohio
    Tractor
    cub cadet zero turn

    Default Re: Cub Cadet RZT Zero turn PTO and reverse issues

    i have a cub cadet zero turn and the PTO clutch isbad, how do I go about changing it?

  2. #12
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    254
    Location
    Newark, de
    Tractor
    International 424

    Default Re: Cub Cadet RZT Zero turn PTO and reverse issues

    Quote Originally Posted by cs36 View Post
    i have a cub cadet zero turn and the PTO clutch isbad, how do I go about changing it?
    Easy to replace
    Unplug it, remove bolt in center, remove and replace. Not cheap though.

  3. #13
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1
    Location
    Greensboro, NC, 27455
    Tractor
    G152

    Default Re: Cub Cadet RZT Zero turn PTO and reverse issues

    It sounds like your electric clutch is breaking down and getting hot. Once it cools down it will reengage. On some Cub clutches you have bolts you can adjust and the clutch will engage correctly.

  4. #14
    New Member Bikenstein's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    1
    Location
    Alabama
    Tractor
    Cub Cadet RZT50

    Default Re: Cub Cadet RZT Zero turn PTO and reverse issues

    Quote Originally Posted by neauva View Post
    I've spent a LOT of time recently working on my PTO flakiness so I sympathize. Keep in mind that there are 2 reverse switches on the RZT (at least the RZT 22). Both of them have to be released for the circuit to open and tell the PTO to shut off. That is, if only one lever is in reverse, it won't shut off. So, when you put them both out of reverse, they would *BOTH* have to be 'stuck' in order for that to be the problem. Not likely. The fact that you seem to have more trouble after the mower is hot might indicate problems with the relay, or (gasp) the PTO itself. Good luck!
    I know this is an old thread but it is still a current problem for some. I recently had the same problems with my mower and found this thread searching for info. It is reasonable to conclude that both switches would have to malfunction "be stuck" at the same time, but it is also very likely. I found this to be the case with mine. The connectors had corroded and were preventing their NC switches from completing the circuit. The switches would work sometimes, be slow to work at others and finally quit altogether because they would not allow enough power to the clutch to engage. People are replacing the main switch and even the clutch and getting results for awhile, when in reality they are probably causing the connections to be making a little better contact at the same time and erroneously attributing the positive results to the new parts. These plug in wire connectors are not sealed and will fail due to corrosion just as the battery connections on any battery. I suggest cleaning them first before replacing any switches or clutch just as I would suggest cleaning your battery connections on any vehicle before replacing the battery or charging components. I cleaned the reverse switch connectors after finding I was only getting 4 or 5 volts at the clutch and all is well and working like new. I did go back and disconnect the reverse switches and make a jumper to plug in their places to be able to stop the annoying and probably wear causing shutting off and on when backing up. I hope this helps someone and saves them time and money.

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