Belarus Starters

[alchemy]

This could be for discussion for anything to do with belarus starters but here is my problem.
I got this starter for my 1979 250 AS and it does not fit. The ad clearly states for 1979 250 AS .

NEW STARTER BELARUS TRACTOR 250 300 400 400A 405A 420A 425A SBE0003 | eBay

This starter has a nose/bendix opening that is too far counterclockwise if facing the nose side. It hits the flywheel while the bolt holes are about 1/4" from lining up. Actually the bendix opening should be about 30 deg CCW from where they have it. The nose length and width are smaller also and the gear sets out a little further. Measuring the flywheel teeth to mount face and that of this starter it looks to me as it would still work, leaving about 3/16" between the flywheel teeth and the bendix gear with the solenoid at rest, as long as I could get the holes to line up. I have a couple ideas to try since they require me pay return shipping and then it's at their discretion whether they want to refund or not.
Even though they print that it fits a 250 AS 1979 in bold print at the very beginning there was nothing about nose differences and then they print later and smaller "must match part numbers." Well I could not read part numbers but after closer inspection later I saw CT222 a distant "T" then more bizarre characters. They state CT222A .
I may try to just cut a 1/2"X 1 1/14" rectangular slot at the edge of the nose where the flywheel, redrill bolt holes, or make a mounting adapter of some sort. I also considered just switching the mount face and nose with my old one but I think the shaft length is different.
Please post your knowledge, experience, or ideas if you have any.

 

[mitch becton]

in the starter and alternator business the classic one fits all pretty well went away in the automotive field in the late 70's and when all the import tractors starting coming into america a lot of people still thought one size fits all. but in your case there is a light at the end on the tunnel. as for your original style probably will not find one that is reasonable price but i have a company in washington state that makes a off set gear reducted starter for your application have sold many in the past few years and one good up side is it it built on the design of a nippondenso built unit and parts are available for future repairs i will contact him tommorrow evening and get pricing for you and repost then if you have any questions or concerns please feel free to call me my cell number is 678-478-7427

 

[alchemy]

Thanks for the info. I almost started cutting the nose but then I decided to wait til tommorrow and see what they say from where I bought it.

 

[alchemy]

Actually, they were extremely kind on the phone and said I could try it by clamping it in place before I modified it and said they would take it back if it did not work even if it chewed up the bendix. They would, of course, just take it back for a refund if I wanted to do that. I would probably have to pay return shipping on 38#. Their ad legal stuff and policies must have been written by an outside lawyer because they are actually very kind, flexible, knowledgeable and understanding.
I suspected they must have knowledge and ideas on this problem but I have an ebay tool which allowed me to look for negative feedback and others who have bought this starter. I could not find anyone having problems with them or discrepencies on this starter. They have sold 11. Maybe my starter version is not common?

 

[alchemy]

Tested it to assure it would work if I modified the mounting. All I ended up doing to test it was just turning it counterclockwise so the bolts would go in the holes on the bellhousing and not the starter yet the washers would catch on the starter mount flange.
Worked awesomely well. Started it several times and had to check to see if the engine was even turning it was so fast. It would even turn it fast with the decompression lever engaged, Ran it for a while listening for noise then pulled it back out. No sign of scoring, rubbing etc. So this starter will work for this tractor with minor modification. After seeing what I did to try it I may just perfect that by making an adapter plate or 3 stout "slats with pins" shaped like an L and not alter the starter or tractor at all

 

[alchemy]

It's done. As I began to make a bracket which would have been made from 1/8 steel plate with holes for the bolts to the bellhousing and rods or bolts for the starter holes, I realized this would take an hour or two as opposed to just cutting some off the edge of the nose. I cut a place approx. 1/2 inch deep and about 1 1/2 " long (rectangular cutout). Tried to go slow and very careful not to cut where I didn't want to and make it real neat. It cut unexpectedly fast and I did score places I did not want to because of that but it won't affect anything. Only took about 2 minutes with a 4" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Made two 1/2 cuts inward and then a partial cut connecting them long ways then broke of the cutout with a hammer and then smoothed the rough places. Basic stuff. It appears to have left plenty of the nose circumference unchanged as seen in the 2nd pic. When I tried it I found it would actually turn a huge 1 1/4 inch PAST the holes before it hit the flywheel opposed to hitting 1/4" before the holes before I cut it. That means I could have probably just cut 1/4 " or less instead of 1/2".
Tried it, worked perfect, no scoring, nothing rubbing, no heat. I'm happy!

 

[drs1023]

I have an '89 250AS, and I just replaced the original starter with the reduction gear type. I couldn't be happier with it. That was an option for you - and the gear drive one was $155 with free shipping off Ebay.

But, I'm glad it worked out for you with the direct drive starter. My original starter NEVER spun the engine really fast; even when new. I had it rebuilt by a very experienced rebuilder in the area, and it never got any better. When the bendix wore out, I replaced the whole thing.

 

[alchemy]

I have an '89 250AS, and I just replaced the original starter with the reduction gear type. I couldn't be happier with it. That was an option for you - and the gear drive one was $155 with free shipping off Ebay.

But, I'm glad it worked out for you with the direct drive starter. My original starter NEVER spun the engine really fast; even when new. I had it rebuilt by a very experienced rebuilder in the area, and it never got any better. When the bendix wore out, I replaced the whole thing.

I didn't see any that cheap. Was yours the "centric" without a nose? Sure, in hindsght I may have just got another type but with this starter I don't see need for a gear reduction after using this one. Turns too fast already if there is such a thing as too fast. It may be just a very powerful one. It has the power listed but I don't know what to compare to. I almost bought a centric but they did not respond to email since they stated to make sure the nose was right so I ordered elsewhere. In the pic it did not even have a nose.

 

[drs1023]

No nose cone required on this type starter. The armature is supported at the end of the field coils and the bendix sticks out past that. It's been a few years since I replaced the starter on an old truck I have, but if I recall correctly, the gear reduction starter is like this as well.

 

[alchemy]

btw, dbelectric, where I got it, offered to switch me for one they say is for a CT222 rather than a CT222A. They said the one they have for the CT222 does not have a nose and is gear reduction but they wanted 200 more for it. Doesn't make sense. I saw them on ebay for about the same price. That one must have been OE.