2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment

   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment
  • Thread Starter
#21  
As many JD owners now know, the rear axle housings (trumpet housings) on
this series are made of cast aluminum, unlike others in this class. On my last
tractor, the ear that supports the lower 3-point hitch arm was broken off on
one side.

Well, that happened to this unit, too, but I got the tractor after it was fixed.
The left axle housing has been replaced, and JD sells you the one for the
4x10 series as an update/retrofit. It has been strenghthened, but not
in the 3-pt support area. I gather that other parts of these housings have
also failed.

In preparation for fabrication of a backhoe subframe for this tractor, I removed
the ROPS bolts and lower bracket. There is a bunch of corrosion there, which
I wanted to clean up and paint before proceding. I also wanted to replace the
bolts since they were all rusty, and 2 of them were not the OEM bolts. You
can see some of the rusty bolts in the first photo.

The OEM bolts are quite special: they are grade 10.9 with a high-strength
flanged nut. Someone swapped out some crappy grade 5 SAE
bolts/nuts/lockwashers. These are critical supports for my subframe and I
don't want to compromise here. I bought 8 new JD bolts/nuts.

Here is the top/bottom of the original housing:
trumpet_4x00_1.jpgtrumpet_4x00_2.jpg

Here is the top/bottom of the 4x10 replacement housing. Note the thicker
bolt bosses and base. The flared section is a bit thicker, too.
]trumpet_4x10_1.jpgtrumpet_4x10_2.jpg
 
   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment
  • Thread Starter
#22  
As I wrap up my repairs, I go back to the HST controls. This tractor,
as well as my last 4300, has very abrupt forward and reverse controls.
When I let off either go-pedal, the braking action is sudden, unlike any
of the Kiotis I bought new, or my Bobcat CUT either.

I wonder....was the Deere that way when it was new, or is the damper
(#23 in the parts diagram) just worn out? Anyway, I debated replacing
it, but decided not to. You get used to it.

Anybody replaced their HST damper?
 

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   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment #23  
I wonder....was the Deere that way when it was new, or is the damper
(#23 in the parts diagram) just worn out?

My 4300 has been that way since new so likely the damper is ok.
 
   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment #24  
As I wrap up my repairs, I go back to the HST controls. This tractor,
as well as my last 4300, has very abrupt forward and reverse controls.
When I let off either go-pedal, the braking action is sudden, unlike any
of the Kiotis I bought new, or my Bobcat CUT either.

I wonder....was the Deere that way when it was new, or is the damper
(#23 in the parts diagram) just worn out? Anyway, I debated replacing
it, but decided not to. You get used to it.

Anybody replaced their HST damper?

My friend has a 4400, and his was/is like that also and has been from day 1. I nearly throw myself out of the seat every time I use it.
 
   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment
  • Thread Starter
#25  
My friend has a 4400, and his was/is like that also
and has been from day 1. I nearly throw myself out of the seat every time
I use it.
That implies that your 4110's eHydro is well-damped, right, Kenny? If so, maybe
all of the 4x10s and later HSTs have better damping, including the 3x20s.

In mid-range, both of my 4300s have been so undamped that I have the same
experience as you do, if I have not driven them in a while. I wonder if that
is a feature, rather than a bug.... You do get used to it.
 
   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment #26  
That implies that your 4110's eHydro is well-damped, right, Kenny? If so, maybe
all of the 4x10s and later HSTs have better damping, including the 3x20s.

In mid-range, both of my 4300s have been so undamped that I have the same
experience as you do, if I have not driven them in a while. I wonder if that
is a feature, rather than a bug.... You do get used to it.

Yes, the 4110 is well-damped (this is a small framed CUT). If you let off the pedal the tractor slows to a stop quickly, but not abruptly like the 4x00's do.

The 4x10's (mid-framed) 3x20's, and 4x20's are all eHydro and not mechanical so there is no damper-but you can "program" how is stops.
 
   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment #27  
Very interesting thread, you always inspires me to go fix some of the junk i have laying around. :thumbsup:

Today I replaced rotted off fuel lines on a small chain saw. Still having difficulties getting it running, it will run for about 3 seconds then die. I even cleaned the carb too. I must be doing something wrong... :confused:
IMG_0805[1].JPG IMG_0812.JPG
 
   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment #28  
This, and the other related threads by dfkrug, have been outstanding and I thank you very much!
 
   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment #29  
My 4200 stops abruptly if you let off the go-pedals too quickly. It's always been that way.
 
   / 2001 John Deere 4300 HST tractor extensive repairs and refurbishment
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Today I replaced rotted off fuel lines on a small chain saw. Still
having difficulties getting it running, it will run for about 3 seconds then die.

Since I love engines of all kinds, I have rebuilt maybe a dozen+ chainsaws. Ethanol in the
fuel makes the squishy parts go bad after several years. First thing I do after taking
them all apart is put a kit in the carb. You can get pretty much any Walbro or Zama kit
for under $10 these days. A bit more if you want a new needle valve. New fuel lines
and inlet filters are a good ideal if they look bad. Primer bulb, too. Get a good look at the piston
and bore if compression seems low. Piston kits are pretty cheap these days, too.
I sometimes see poorly sealing intake rubber boots, which can cause poor running.
Finally, if it does not run well, you may have a bad crank seal and or crank bearings.
I have a saw apart now on my bench, awaiting a crankcase pressure test.

Good luck (and don't spend a lot of time or money on repairing cheap crappy saws).

Thanks, everyone, for the great feedback. I will post finished pix of the JD soon.
 

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