roll pin removal / transmission housing help

[farmboyhull]

I sure tried to attach a photo, but as I get older it sure gets harder.

Let me try to explain this:

I have a Mahindra 4530 - it's probably about a 2005 or so.

The forward/reverse lever broke off the roll pin down between my feet. The pin apparently is about 1/4 inch by an inch, but it also appears that there may be another roll pin inside it? A diagram I found says there is a "Roll Pin Shaft Shifter Cam" with a "PIN Dowel Slotted Spring 5/32 Dia. X 7/5 Long" that both go into the hole. Someone on the phone suggested the roll pin was 1/4 inch, but apparently they may have been mistaken.

There was a broken piece of roll pin that I found, and it is 1/4 inch.

So, I need to get whatever is in the hole out, and then put some sort of bolt or pin through, so that I can move my tractor again and finish my fence.

It's pretty tricky to access this area, and I was unable to force the pin out. I wondered if the whole housing (BRACKET F-R Shifting with Synchro Lubrication) could be lifted off. My guess is that if I can get it off, it would then be very tricky to get back on as I would have to mesh gears, or something.

Any ideas?

Thanks so much.

 

[farmboyhull]

Well, There was a smaller roll pin within the larger. The small one is now out, but the large refuses to budge. I've used some heat. There isn't much room for a punch. I'm hoping to slide something through the hole and shift, which may allow enough of an angle to get a punch and hammer on it.

Any ideas are certainly still welcome...

Thanks

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

Well, There was a smaller roll pin within the larger. The small one is now out, but the large refuses to budge. I've used some heat. There isn't much room for a punch. I'm hoping to slide something through the hole and shift, which may allow enough of an angle to get a punch and hammer on it.

Any ideas are certainly still welcome...

Thanks

Spray some penetrant on the pin, and if you can get a vice grip on the end of it to squeeze it together a little to loosen it. That may help.

 

[Zebrafive]

Can you slide a nail head first into the roll pin then catch the rear of the broken pin with the nail head and pull it out?

Can you get an easyout into it and get it to turn?, might loosen it up

 

[farmboyhull]

Thanks, fellas.

Some progress has been made in that I can slide a smaller pin through and actually get the transmission to work - in that I can use F and R again. I got THAT going for me, anyway.

I still can't get the larger roll pin out. It's sheared on both sides - nothing to grab. There's about 2 inches of clearance on each side, and the pin slides in horizontally, so I can't get much in there to pound or pull. My 1/4 socket set barely fits (I've tried to screw in a screw to see if I can turn it, and tried getting a flat head in to the pin and its gap to see if I can rotate the whole pin) and my dremel tool won't make it, either. I don't have an easyout, but from what I can tell I may not have enough clearance for it.

The only thing that I can really do is slow pressure through leverage, and it seems like I need a good solid whack to free it up. It's been getting heat and PB Blaster.

I need to take a break from this, but I was wondering if I could fit some sort of hacksaw blade inside, or a file of some sort. Other than that, I'm somewhat at an impasse.

Thanks.

David

 

[farmboyhull]

I got it out, the SOB. I was able to get my longest crow bar in there, and leveraged in a stubby grade 8 shear pin with the threads cut off.

I have new roll pins I can put in. Is there are reason not to put a bolt in there instead? I figure this could happen again, and I sure hope I'd be better at it the next time. However, with a bolt in there, the swap would be much easier. Anyone know if a certain grade could work? Could I harm the lever and connections somehow with a bolt?

Thanks

 

[DennisMI]

"I have new roll pins I can put in. Is there are reason not to put a bolt in there instead?"

The roll pin is cheaper to replace than broken parts. For example, I'm rebuilding a large cement mixer because someone replaced a 3/4 inch shear pin with a 3/4 inch grade 5 bolt. When the mixer jammed instead of shearing the shear pin it sheared the shaft inside the hydraulic motor which it was protecting. I had to completely dismantle the entire hydraulic system, pick the pieces out of the parts and repair the parts. I now have to buy very expensive parts for the hydraulic motor.

 

[crazyal]

Since it had two pins, one inside the other Mahindra didn't think just one pin was going to be enough I would look at getting a shear bolt for a snow blower. If it was me that's what I would rather shear than a roll pin. Roll pins can do plenty of damage since they are spring steel and don't always shear off smoothly.

 

[farmboyhull]

I guess another way to look at it is what grade bolt would equal the double roll pin. I would rather have a bolt in there because it would be easier to replace if this happens again. I certainly don't want a harder bolt in there; I would rather start off with something soft and see how it works.

I do wonder how those roll pins compare to a bolt, just out of curiosity. If I keep shearing bolts and keep getting harder ones to replace with, It'd be a shame to go too hard.

Thanks.

David

 

[Gary Fowler]

The way I read this post the pin is on a shift lever and it hard to imagine shearing a pin or bolt on a shift lever if not jamming the gears. I would put in a Grade 5 bolt and nylon lock nut and avoid stressing the gear shift lever so hard in the future.