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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    2
    Location
    Florence, SC
    Tractor
    MF, 230 disel

    Default How do I replace the fuel filter on a MF 230 disel ?

    Does the fuel filter itself have an outer cover that it is in and how do I bleed the system when job done?

  2. #2
    Silver Member wthompson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    156
    Location
    Southeast, GA
    Tractor
    John Deere 4600HST L100 L120

    Default Re: How do I replace the fuel filter on a MF 230 disel ?

    I will suggest getting a IT sevice manual, very helpful when doing maintenance on your tractor and will be specific to it.NAPA AUTO PARTS The filter is between a sedement bowl and cast housing, remove and replace. The fuel lift pump has a handle that is used to prime the fuel system.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Jerry/MT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,058
    Location
    Western Montana
    Tractor
    New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Ferguson TO-30

    Default Re: How do I replace the fuel filter on a MF 230 disel ?

    First let me say I'm not familiar with your specific tractor. The first thing i'd recommend you do is to go to an Agco dealer and order an owners manual for your tractor. You can also google on "MF 230 tractor owner's manual" and find one on the web or on ebay. If you new to tractors you need to get and read the factory owner's manual to safely operate it. the manual generally has routine maintence instructions in it also.

    Fuel filters can be spin on (like a car oil filter), contained in a housing, or the housing can be two pieces held together by a bolt with the filter sandwiched between them.
    The spin on filter is just uncrewed (after shutting off the tank outlet valve) and replaced,and then the system is bled(see below). With the "sandwich" type, you remove the center bolt, wipe down the top and bottom pieces, place the new filter on the through bolt and bolt it back together and then bleed. For the ones with a housing , you open the housing remove the filter, clean the housing out, insert the new filter andreassemble the housing and then bleed. Remember to always shut the tank valve off before removing the filter or you'll spill that $4 diesel all over.
    If you're changing the flter because you are having running problem, I'd recommend you verify that your tank outlet strainer is not clogged by opening the tank valve with the filter off and holding a suitable container under it to contain the fuel. Open the valve fully and the fuels hould pour out like a peein'on a flat rock! if it dribbles or is intermittent, the problem is some crud in the bottom of the tnak that needs removal.

    Bleeding a Diesel Fuel System

    Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen.
    If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw.
    Your pump may have a bleeder screw. If so, open that until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. If you cannot identify the bleeder screw, loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point.
    Go back and make sure ALL the fittings in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.
    Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting.
    Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.
    Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.
    sixbales & Jerry/MT

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