1952 Ford 8N won't start

[94BULLITT]

No the points will not go bad at once. Go through the steps I have in post 7 a let us know what you find if you have any questions.

[tnmike]

Clean the points with some fine grit sandpaper or a point file if you have one. I bet that is the problem.

The next failure point would be the coil. They are prone to failing under load when they get hot. Ive had several on other engines do so.

Check the coil wire as well. The ignition system is pretty simple.

[Soundguy]

your coil is not wired tot he genny.. it's wired to the key switch..

to hot wire the coil just run a wire from battery hot to the primary of the coil. other side of primary goes to distribuitor feedthru stud/insulator.

can points fail? sure. they could get loose and close up.. the rubbing block could wear down if you did not use and cam lobe lube on it.. that will close them up.. once closed up a bit they will arc and pit and not work. condensor could have shorted, thus coil is always grounded.. condensor could have opened, thus points arced and burned... small copper strip from inside of dizzy feedthru insulated stud to points and condensor could have cracked, insulated feed thru stud could have cracked and shorted stud to ground at side of dizzy.. advance mechanism may have come apart wiping out insulator and copper strip. breaker plate could have degraded allowing a short from the moving side of the points so that they are shorted.

or could all be upstream.. like a bad key switch.. bad wire, connector.. or even an open coil primary or secondary.

hotwire and check.. then check points to make sure they open and close are gapped right and clean.. then if still nothing, put a test lamp inline with hotwire to coil primary.. run starter over.. lamp should blink. if no lamp.. points are open.. or coil is open.. .. if lamp stays on.. soemthing is shorted.. or points are closed
.

don't overlook east stuff like damaged /cracked rotor shorting spark.. or a carbon tracked cap. i use the coil center wire with a spare plug in it laying on block to check spark..
post back

[rickdmedina]

I will check the wire to the coil. I will also check the points.

One more thing: I replaced the old coil, which was on the tractor when it originally stalled. But I am not convinced that was my problem.

Rick

[Soundguy]

No the points will not go bad at once. Go through the steps I have in post 7 a let us know what you find if you have any questions.

yes, they can.... the screw can come loose and they can close up.

the rubbing block can wear from lack of lube. the cheap tisco and chinese points with black plastic block wear badly.. and with no lube can wear out EXTREMELY quick.

[Soundguy]

One more thing: I replaced the old coil, which was on the tractor when it originally stalled. But I am not convinced that was my problem.

Rick

not surprising.

shotgun approach to fixing a tractor usually repalces many parts not needed.. vs troubleshooting first.

post back with observations of tests.

[Soundguy]

Clean the points with some fine grit sandpaper or a point file if you have one. I bet that is the problem.

The next failure point would be the coil. They are prone to failing under load when they get hot. Ive had several on other engines do so.

Check the coil wire as well. The ignition system is pretty simple.

an ignition hone is ok if done with a light hand.. and not enough to go thru the hard layer.

sand paper.. only as a last resort.. and be prepaired to change them or keep sanding. sand paper removes the hard coating on points and gets you to the soft base metal that wears and pits faster.. thus requires more sanding, more often. also.. most people that sand don't them pull a piece of paper thru the points to clean the abrasive off.. that leaves you with micro abrasives imbeded int he points holdign them open a micron or so.. that leads to MORE arcing and pitting... some grit, like garnet, is non conductive.. etc...

[rickdmedina]

Sounds like a plan (hot wire the coil). Like I said, the wiring is very old (as I am and the tractor), so I have suspected the wiring.

I just don't think it's anything under the distributor cap (rotor, condenser, points), because they are new (plus I didn't do it). but, I will check the distributor cap (take it off look at the points and rotor).

I am going to try it tonight.

Thanks for the advice (I really appreciate it),
Rick

[Soundguy]

hot wire first before you do anything.

fell free to email or pm me tonight or post back if you hit a snag. i read the forums all day.. i just leave a window open on the browser all the time.. and look at it when i walk by

[94BULLITT]

yes, they can.... the screw can come loose and they can close up.

the rubbing block can wear from lack of lube. the cheap tisco and chinese points with black plastic block wear badly.. and with no lube can wear out EXTREMELY quick.

I really don't see how that would be considered the points failing if the screw came out.