Please help with clutch issue

[Hinomotoman]

My tractor's gears starting grinding when putting in gear. Naturally the first thing that came to my mind was "clutch". I adjusted it and nothing changed so I ran the adustment all the way to the end. Nothing changed. So I thought "OK time for a new clutch". I ordered everything new and proceded to split the tractor. I got the old parts out and inspected them. The clutch was hardley worn, the pressure plate was alright and the bearing sounded a little dry but was still working. I put all the new parts in anyway and reattched the 2 halves of the tractor (6 hours). Got all the wires, linkages and hoses hooked up and bled and started it up. I was so excited to have it fixed and tried to put it in gear. The same grinding! I had put my adjustments back to origianal when I installed the new parts so I figured "adjustment". I ran it all the way back out and the same thing. This morning I tried an experiment. I hooked a cable to the tractor and without starting it, I put it in gear. I started pulling the tractor and the wheels drug just as expected. I then depressed the clutch pedal and nothing changed. So, the clutch is not releasing. I inspected all of the linkages and no damage. I checked the throwout bearing for operation before I put the tractor back together and it worked. I've disconnected the linkage from the lever on the bellhousing and moved it by hand. It has full motion in both directions. What could possibly be wrong? The tractor has a little over 700 hours on it.

Eugene

 

[Leejohn]

About the only thing left is the arm that push the bearing is bent or twisted and not pushing the bearing far enough.

 

[Don87]

My tractor's gears starting grinding when putting in gear. Naturally the first thing that came to my mind was "clutch". I adjusted it and nothing changed so I ran the adustment all the way to the end. Nothing changed. So I thought "OK time for a new clutch". I ordered everything new and proceded to split the tractor. I got the old parts out and inspected them. The clutch was hardley worn, the pressure plate was alright and the bearing sounded a little dry but was still working. I put all the new parts in anyway and reattched the 2 halves of the tractor (6 hours). Got all the wires, linkages and hoses hooked up and bled and started it up. I was so excited to have it fixed and tried to put it in gear. The same grinding! I had put my adjustments back to origianal when I installed the new parts so I figured "adjustment". I ran it all the way back out and the same thing. This morning I tried an experiment. I hooked a cable to the tractor and without starting it, I put it in gear. I started pulling the tractor and the wheels drug just as expected. I then depressed the clutch pedal and nothing changed. So, the clutch is not releasing. I inspected all of the linkages and no damage. I checked the throwout bearing for operation before I put the tractor back together and it worked. I've disconnected the linkage from the lever on the bellhousing and moved it by hand. It has full motion in both directions. What could possibly be wrong? The tractor has a little over 700 hours on it.

Eugene

You shouldn't be able to do that without a prybar. Pressure plate springs are very strong.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

HAD THE SAME ISSUE WITH MY DADS SUPER C THIS SUMMER.
THE TRACTOR IS STORED ON OUR PROPERTY JUST OUTSIDE TOWN IN A POLY ARCHED ENCLOSURE.
MICE HADE MADE A NEST INSIDE THE CLUTCH HOUSING AS THEY DO MOST EVERY YEAR. SOMETIMES IN THE STARTER ALSO AND THE TRACTOR WONT START.
THE URINE IS CORROSIVE AND RUSTED THE INPUT SHAFT TO THE TRANSMISSION. LOCKED THE PRESSURE PLATE/BEARING ONTO THE SHAFT AND IT WOULD NOT PUSH THE PRESSURE PLATE BACK.
IT ALSO GRINDED WHEN PUTTING IT INTO GEAR. IF YOU START IT IN GEAR AND THE TRACTOR MOVES ONCE STARTED AND THE CLUTCH IS STILL INOPERABLE THE ASSEMBLY IS NOT MOVING.
THE SHAFT MUST BE FREE FROM BURRS, CORROSION, NICKS...
ALSO THE CLUTCH PARTS MUST BE FREE FROM DEFECTS, NICKS .... AND SLIDE EASILY ON THE SHAFT.
HOPE THIS HELPS .
TOM

 

[Hinomotoman]

There was no foreign matter of any kind in the bell housing. It's pretty much sealed. The bearing moves about 5/8".

Eugene

 

[Hinomotoman]

You shouldn't be able to do that without a prybar. Pressure plate springs are very strong.

I don't think the bearing is getting to the pressure plate. It moves about 5/8". I don't know how far the bearing is supposed to move. The Massey Ferguson dealer shop manual is worthless. It gives no measurements or details. It doesn't even have "Gears grinding" in the clutch ot transmission troubleshooting section.

Eugene

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

OUR SUPER C HAS LOTS OF PLAY IN THE LINKAGE DUE TO WEAR. MANY TIMES A MANUAL WILL GIVE YOU THE ADJUSTMENT BY PEDAL TRAVEL NOT THE BEARING MOVEMENT AS OURS DOES. THIS IN NOT USEFUL WHEN THE PARTS ARE WORN AND THE SLOP IN LINKAGE ADDS TO THE PEDAL TRAVEL. LOOKING FOR WORN PARTS THAT MAY LIMIT THE THROW IS A CONSIDERATION.
I COULD SEE OUR BEARING MOVE IN AND OUT WHEN DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH ON THE SUPER C.
EVEN WITH VISUAL MOVEMENT IN THE BEARING THE PRESSURE PLATE WAS NOT RELEASING THE CLUTCH.
IT SOUNDS LIKE THE PRESSURE PLATE IS NOT MOVING ITS INTENDED FULL TRAVEL. YOU SHOULD SEE MOVEMENT IN THE PRESSURE PLATE RELEASING ITSELF FROM THE CLUTCH PLATE ALONG WITH THE BEARING MOVEMENT.
A GAP HAS TO BE MADE TO STOP THE FRICTION BETWEEN THE FLYWHEEL AND THE CLUTCH DISC.
MAYBE SOME SPRINGS ARE BROKEN ON YOUR PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY?
IF YOUR CLUTCH DISC IS BOUND BY DIRT OR CORROSION, BURRS ON THE SHAFT... THE FLYWHEEL WILL STILL TRY TO TURN IT.
IS THERE A PILOT BEARING IN THE CRANKSHAFT FOR THE TIP OF THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT?
IF THAT BEARING IS BAD IT WILL TURN THE SHAFT TOO.
TOM

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

IT SOUNDS SO MUCH LIKE A PILOT BEARING ISSUE.
DRAG CAUSED BY A FAILING/ FAILED PILOT BEARING IS TRYING TO TURN THE TRANSMISSION WHILE YOUR CLUTCH IS DOING EXACTLY WHAT IS IT SUPPOSED TO DO.
WHEN THAT BEARING IS BAD THE ENGINE CRANKSHAFT AND TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT BECOME ONE
TOM

 

[Hinomotoman]

All of the parts are new. There is no pilot bearing. The end of the shaft is rounded to fit into it's mating surface. There is no wear in any linkages. Even when disconnecting the linkages it doesn't disengage. The clutch rod goes through the upper portion of the bell housing. The is a fork much like a shifting fork welded to this rod. This fork has a pin which holds it onto a sliding collar which the throwout bearing is pressed onto. None of this is frozen up. I greased all of the sliding surfaces before reassembly and made sure everything worked on that end.

Eugene

Eugene.

 

[Leejohn]

I forgot about the clutch frozen to the flywheel and if that is it, just drive it around and try and load down the tractor now and then with the brakes. Might work loose.