IH B414 gas; won't start

[canucklehead]

Our 1962 International Harverster B414 has a 4 cyl gas engine. I think I have several electrical issues that need attention. For now, i want to get it to start long enough to load onto a trailer. It would start before, but we had to run a jumper wire from POS terminal to the coil. Then, we'd have to pump gas a couple of times, choke it and it'd seem slow to turn over but would suddenly fire & run.

Then it got a flat tire and my son drove it from the covered barn, closer to the house and it sat in the rain and weather for the past 4 months. I have had enough and want to move it and take it in for repairs. NOW when I try to start it the same way with jumper wire to coil, I get nothing. If I ALSO jump power across solenoid (and still jump to coil), I get a couple of weak grunts like it's trying to turn over, but nothing consistent. The jumper cable for solenoid jumpwire also gets very warm and is a fairly heavy gauge.

Battery is new, charged and way more CCA than needed.

keyed ignition seems screwed. It doesn't turn properly and sometimes the ignition cylinder pulls right out.

I don't think this matters, but it is alternator converted, although I think the alternator may not work, and the regulator may not work either (I want to get it to mechanic to get all that checked out...but first I have to be able to move it!!).

Is my starter weak or possibly seized? Since my key doesn't seem to be reliable, is there some way i could directly jump power to starter to get it to start? I really want to get this moved and under cover as I spent hours cleaning rust off hydraulic cylinders for our backhoe attachment and I'm still burned at my son for leaving this disaster for me to deal with.

thanks!!!!

 

[canucklehead]

bump... please help. i only need to get it started and loaded onto trailer and can deal with all the other issues later.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Our 1962 International Harverster B414 has a 4 cyl gas engine. I think I have several electrical issues that need attention. For now, i want to get it to start long enough to load onto a trailer. It would start before, but we had to run a jumper wire from POS terminal to the coil. Then, we'd have to pump gas a couple of times, choke it and it'd seem slow to turn over but would suddenly fire & run.

Then it got a flat tire and my son drove it from the covered barn, closer to the house and it sat in the rain and weather for the past 4 months. I have had enough and want to move it and take it in for repairs. NOW when I try to start it the same way with jumper wire to coil, I get nothing. If I ALSO jump power across solenoid (and still jump to coil), I get a couple of weak grunts like it's trying to turn over, but nothing consistent. The jumper cable for solenoid jumpwire also gets very warm and is a fairly heavy gauge.

Battery is new, charged and way more CCA than needed.

keyed ignition seems screwed. It doesn't turn properly and sometimes the ignition cylinder pulls right out.

I don't think this matters, but it is alternator converted, although I think the alternator may not work, and the regulator may not work either (I want to get it to mechanic to get all that checked out...but first I have to be able to move it!!).

Is my starter weak or possibly seized? Since my key doesn't seem to be reliable, is there some way i could directly jump power to starter to get it to start? I really want to get this moved and under cover as I spent hours cleaning rust off hydraulic cylinders for our backhoe attachment and I'm still burned at my son for leaving this disaster for me to deal with.

thanks!!!!

If you have the solenoid separate from the starter, you can use jumpers directly from the battery to the starter connections on the starter. Just make sure the tractor is not in gear.

Before you try that, however, make sure that you have good battery ground to the chasis. many times the ground cable attchment to the chasis is corroded or rusted and, if that's the case, you can't get a closed circuit to actuate the starter.

 

[canucklehead]

the ground is on the thin, painted firewall and I gave it a half-hearted cleaning. It doesn't look like much of a ground set up...as in: not to the block or frame. Otherwise, if I jump power straight to the starter and it's weak and groans again...maybe my starter is the problem?

 

[canucklehead]

also,if I jump power straight to starter, does my ignition need to be in "ON" position, since it seems like ignition cylinder is broken/pulling out/not turning properly ?

 

[ThomasH]

I would be surprised if the distributor didn't need to be at least dried out, if not the points and condenser replaced due to moisture. Also, it's possible that the coil is a problem also, but I would replace the points and condenser first and dry the distributor cap and wires first. You can use a hair dryer to aid the drying.

 

[canucklehead]

I just got it started, but won't run for long. I pulled off dist. cap and it was dry but has white spots inside (probably old). Rotor didn't look perfect either. Once again ignition cylinder acted up and just pulls right out, doesn't turn correctly, etc...

The coil got really hot. Is that normal? I am jumping power from battery to coil so it will run, and also jumping from POS terminal straight to starter, just to get it to start. (I disconnect jumper cable once it starts). I leave coil cable connected otherwise engine dies (was like this before).

Are points, condenser, rotor, cap & coil all specific to this motor, or are there after market options available?