My Farmall C operators manual and IT shop manual do not have names or part numbers for what I need help with so please refer to attached photos.
I have a crankcase pulley with a 3 inch long by 1/4 inch deep piece missing (Photo # 1). Crank case belt is $31.00 and crank case pulley is $59.00 so it makes financial sense to replace crank case pulley one time rather than replacing a new belt every year. Not to mention the time and effort to do a belt replacement.
How can I remove the old crank case pulley and more importantly attach the new crank case pulley?
I do not have the skill set to remove the crank shaft so it can be taken to a machinist. I need to remove pulley where it sits on the front of the engine and replace it there as well.
To make the crank case pulley fully accessible I plan to remove the front bracket (photo # 3) that the front-axle inserts into. I need to replace a leaking seal in the housing that the front-axle inserts into (Photo # 2) so it will be easier to get at it for repair if I take front bracket off.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I am a computer guy and my Dad passed away leaving me this tractor (plus two others) and I started a simple rebuild of the head which has now turned into a major over-haul from front-to-back.
Ronald
/ How to replace crank case pulley on 1948 Farmall C with C-113 engine
I went looking for a better image to see if there were tapped bolt holes to allow for a puller and found this site, which has all the tips and tricks you'll need.
/ How to replace crank case pulley on 1948 Farmall C with C-113 engine
IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
They are pretty much a press fit. I usually worked on mine in the winter when our work slowed down, and had the time. I always laid the pulley on the top of my coal furnace to warm it up, so as to expand, and make it go on the crankshaft easier. But you can always put it in the oven for a bit, and do the same thing.
Also, when you go to remove the front end, there is a pin through the front yoke of the u-joint that attaches to the steering shaft going into the housing. You'll have to look, as they are peened over. You need to drive that out, and the u-joint will uaually slip right off the steering shaft with a little help from a pry bar. You'll also need to remove the clip that holds the steering shaft back on the bell housing area, to allow it to come off. There's also a woodruff key in that steering shaft where you remove the yoke, so be careful not to lose it.
