Running Hot

   / Running Hot #1  

sox3

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2012
Messages
255
Location
Newark, de
Tractor
International 424
Hi all,
New member here.
I have an International 424 Gas which I have recored the radiator, new cap, water pump, etc.
The tractor runs hot as the temp gauge shows 250 260 degrees but when I check the temp
at the thermostat housing it shows 230 or so. Thermostat is a 170. Possible blockage in block
or head? Any help appreciated.
Thanks
 
   / Running Hot #2  
Hi all,
New member here.
I have an International 424 Gas which I have recored the radiator, new cap, water pump, etc.
The tractor runs hot as the temp gauge shows 250 260 degrees but when I check the temp
at the thermostat housing it shows 230 or so. Thermostat is a 170. Possible blockage in block
or head? Any help appreciated.
Thanks

Have you checked your thermostat?
 
   / Running Hot
  • Thread Starter
#3  
its a new one. 170 degree
 
   / Running Hot #4  
Even new thermostats can be bad not often but it happens Maybe gauge is off? Good luck.:thumbsup:
 
   / Running Hot #5  
Check temp of block with non-contact thermometer. If gauge is correct you have either a water flow or an air flow problem. Back wash the radiator fins with engine cold. Start tractor with rad. cap loose and check water flow when engine temp over 180-190F. Show be more water flow than a garden hose would produce. If water flow seems slow look for blockage.
 
   / Running Hot
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Check temp of block with non-contact thermometer. If gauge is correct you have either a water flow or an air flow problem. Back wash the radiator fins with engine cold. Start tractor with rad. cap loose and check water flow when engine temp over 180-190F. Show be more water flow than a garden hose would produce. If water flow seems slow look for blockage.

Radiator has been recored. I check the temp at the thermostat housing with inferred temp gauge and it s
running 230 or so. Gauge showes 250-260. Fins are clean as core is new, plenty of air flow. How do I go about
looking for a blockage in the block or head?
 
   / Running Hot #7  
Are you sure the water pump belt is tight, the lower hose is not collapsing as the engine speeds up and the pressure cap is the correct rating and is working properly? Make sure the timing is correct and the advance is working correctly. A retarded spark can cause the engine to run hotter. So can too lean a mixture, due to reduced charge cooling.

If the infra-red shows 230F at the thermostat housing and gauge shows 250-260 and the sending unit is near the thermostat housing I'd susupect the sending unit or the gauge. If you can find a spec on the sending unit you can measure the resistance and see how it compares to the spec. One way to check the gauge is to hold the wire that connects to the sending unit to ground momentarily. The gauge should peg out to max temp. If it does the gauge is good and the sending unit is the problem.
 
   / Running Hot #8  
Regardless of the somewhat innacurate gauge, 230 is too hot. Your water pump could be faulty (worn or rusted up impeller), or have an obstruction in the block. Have you tried a can of cooling system cleaner? You put it in, run it for 30 or so minutes, and then drain/flush the system. If the problem is a chunk of rust clogging up cooling somewhere it will help with that, and will clean out biological crud also. If you are sure about the radiator, and there isn't crud in it, and once you clean the system and check out the water pump, then it's time to take the head of and get it serviced. Servicing should include hot tanking and furnace baking to clean out the water passages, plus whatever needs to be done to service the valves.
 
   / Running Hot
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Are you sure the water pump belt is tight, the lower hose is not collapsing as the engine speeds up and the pressure cap is the correct rating and is working properly? Make sure the timing is correct and the advance is working correctly. A retarded spark can cause the engine to run hotter. So can too lean a mixture, due to reduced charge cooling.

If the infra-red shows 230F at the thermostat housing and gauge shows 250-260 and the sending unit is near the thermostat housing I'd susupect the sending unit or the gauge. If you can find a spec on the sending unit you can measure the resistance and see how it compares to the spec. One way to check the gauge is to hold the wire that connects to the sending unit to ground momentarily. The gauge should peg out to max temp. If it does the gauge is good and the sending unit is the problem.

Thanks for the reply, Belt is tight, cap is correct new 7 lb, pump is new, hose not collapsing, sending unit in thermostat housing, havent checked timing
but will do. I think there is a flow issue in the block. It is boiling at those temps and lifting the cap. I also have the correct amount of antifreeze in it.
I'm thinking about pulling the freeze plugs and see whats in the block passages. When I replaced the pump I did not see any debris in the upper areas,
but the old radiator core was severly plugged up.
 
   / Running Hot
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Update:
Pulled 2 freeze plugs, looks good inside block. Today I pulled the head, small
passages were clogged and I was able to clean them out. Just waiting on
a new head gasket and see how it does then.
 
 
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