Ford 3000 Overheat

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Originally Posted by skytracker

Seems to have good power and runs smooth. Holley Carb had a complete rebuild. Originally, bowl and everything was gummed up and green. I will have to re-check the mixture and plugs.
I did have the lower rad hose collapse, replaced with a new reinforced one. What generally causes that?

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A rad hose can collapse just due to the water pump suction as the engine speeds.That's why most lower hoses are reinforced. Some reinforcement is just a coil spring placed in the hose and these can corrode away if the coolant isn't maintained. A restricted rad on the coolant side can also add to the problem.

A missing vacuum advance line will lean the mixture because the air coming through the generally bypasses the carb metering section. Also make sure that the intial timing is correct and the centrifugal advance is working properly. A retarded spark can cause overheating and burn exhaust valves.

I replaced the lower hose already with a new heavy duty reinforced one. Flushed the system and ran clear.
What size should the compression fitting for the advance line be?? It looks like 1/4 in pipe thread, then likely 3/16 vacuum line.
The local NH dealer would have to order them but the TSC and auto parts have a selection. The plugs are not new but appear good and light brown.

check to see if the parts manual has the sizes.. i don't have a manual handy with me.

It doesn't say the size. It calls them screws, compression that's it. Does not specify the size of the line either. The NH guy thought the line was 3/16 or so.

I would assume same on gas but a clogged air intake such as clogged filter or animal nest in it will cause diesel to run hot.

I just got my overheating problem fixed. see post"running hot". Ended up replacing, radiator core, thermostat, water pump, remove head
and clean water passages, its perfect now. If the hose was collasping it sounds like it could be a plugged radator.
Let me know f you have any questions.

Just plug the hose/line to the vacumn advance and see if it runs. Many tractors don't use a vacuumn advance, just the centrifugal advance. It only works in the part throttle/part load range anyway.That will at least tell you if it's the problem.

I have it plugged right now and it runs but will gradually overheat if left at idle for some time, or much shorter if working it.
I have several things to accomplish. I will be replacing the vacuum advance line tonight. Verify/ check the timing. Then I have a slight air leak at the carb/intake gasket, I will replace the gasket. Check if the problem is better.
Then drain the system and put in distilled water and run. Check for good flow.

that leak will make her run lean.. lean can be hot...

Thanks Soundguy.
Replaced the vacuum advance line and the carb/intake gasket. I did not run it yet as I drained it to flush the radiator/colling with white vinegar and then prestone. I should get to try it tomorrow.