Another Kubota fuel gauge stuck on full

[Teikas Dad]

I have a Yamaha Rhino UTV that I wanted to add a fuel gauge to. A couple of years ago I got a marine grade fuel gauge from West Marine and an electronic sending unit, like this one:



This website sells them for $68.50. Rhino Performance Gauges, Ron's Truck and Auto, Diesel Performance, San Diego

It doesn't depend on a float in the fuel, rather the down tube measures the fuel electronically. Mine has 2 wires on it so it may be compatible with the Kubota setup.

 

[srs]

I have a Yamaha Rhino UTV that I wanted to add a fuel gauge to. A couple of years ago I got a marine grade fuel gauge from West Marine and an electronic sending unit, like this one:

View attachment 290000

This website sells them for $68.50. Rhino Performance Gauges, Ron's Truck and Auto, Diesel Performance, San Diego

It doesn't depend on a float in the fuel, rather the down tube measures the fuel electronically. Mine has 2 wires on it so it may be compatible with the Kubota setup.

Teikas Dad, thank you for the link, very interesting!

 

[number two]

Stanley,it sounds like your electrical is in order.Touching the yellow power wire to ground should read full,as yours did.The only electrical possibility now I can think of is the yellow wire is pinched/grounded somewhere when the sending unit is installed in the tank,but not grounded when you have it out of the tank.A VOM could certainly help here.
The sending unit not moving freely when installed is a real possibility.But what could have changed?I also have filled my tank right up many times with no issues.Could the plastic tank have become deformed somehow?What else could be preventing the floats free travel?
Geez!Fuel guages aren't rocket science.I'll have to get out my WSM and do some research.Good Luck and post back.

 

[pedalstomper78]

I don't know if someone mentioned it, but did you check the resistance on the ground side of the wire? Check to make sure that it has 0 resistance going to ground.

A fuel gauge is just a rheostat, almost like a dining room light dimmer. More resistance, more fuel. If the wire is cut, pinched, or otherwise damaged, you're not going to get a good ground on it. Look for the ground wire first.

 

[srs]

Stanley,it sounds like your electrical is in order.Touching the yellow power wire to ground should read full,as yours did.The only electrical possibility now I can think of is the yellow wire is pinched/grounded somewhere when the sending unit is installed in the tank,but not grounded when you have it out of the tank.A VOM could certainly help here.
The sending unit not moving freely when installed is a real possibility.But what could have changed?I also have filled my tank right up many times with no issues.Could the plastic tank have become deformed somehow?What else could be preventing the floats free travel?
Geez!Fuel guages aren't rocket science.I'll have to get out my WSM and do some research.Good Luck and post back.

number two, thanks for your reply. The plastic tank has not been deformed in anyway, tractor has only been cutting grass all summer. As far as I can tell the float moves freely inside the tank.

I don't know if someone mentioned it, but did you check the resistance on the ground side of the wire? Check to make sure that it has 0 resistance going to ground.

A fuel gauge is just a rheostat, almost like a dining room light dimmer. More resistance, more fuel. If the wire is cut, pinched, or otherwise damaged, you're not going to get a good ground on it. Look for the ground wire first.

pedalstomper78, thank you also for your reply. I tore the dash apart, traced the yellow power wire to the gauge cluster, opened the instrument panel up, everything looks good, no pinched wires from the sending unit to the gauge. I haven't followed the ground wire only the yellow power wire. Following the ground will be much tougher but will work on that next free time. I will get underneath the tractor to check for any loose wires, etc. Next week I'll go and purchase an ohm meter and see what I can do with that. I have no clue how to use one but I guess now is as good a time to learn as ever. Still working on it. Becoming an expert at removing the dash and sending unit, ha! Thanks again. Stanley

 

[pedalstomper78]

Stanley.......here's how you will use the Ohm-meter.
0 ohms = good.
more than 0 ohms= bad.
The ground wire is what the sending uses for it's signal. The easiest way to test it would be to take the ground wire from the sending unit, go to a good known ground, and see what you have. Refer to my "good/bad" chart above. LOL

A lot of people think that electrical stuff is a big mystery. It's not. It's just time consuming occasionally. A fridge full of good beer close to the tractor also helps.

 

[srs]

pedalstomper78, thanks for the info. I need to go to Harbor Freight sometime this week to get me an ohm meter. I'll let you know and appreciate the help.

 

[pedalstomper78]

Keep me posted. With most guys in a bind like this, I'm even willing to give the occasional "over the phone lesson". Kind of a gas for me to chat with other guys on here and also feels good to help. May the electromotive force be with you....

 

[srs]

Keep me posted. With most guys in a bind like this, I'm even willing to give the occasional "over the phone lesson". Kind of a gas for me to chat with other guys on here and also feels good to help. May the electromotive force be with you....

I'm going to HF tomorrow (11-26-12) and purchase the meter. I'll let you know and thank you. It's nice to have you and other great folks here on TBN willing to assist others.

 

[john_bud]

GIven that the reading is "stuck" when assembled normally, but works correctly when the sending unit is taken out, I'm going to guess that you may have a wire that is internally broken. When it sits it is open, but when you moved it contact was made and it worked. I would wire in a spare wire to check that theory out. You could ohm it in place too, but it may be quicker to just run a parallel wire.