Old Alternator on Tractor can you help me wire it?

[jclaudii]

Here are some numbers off the alternator:
on rear housing
5305
3438713
on front housing
2095191
11
From googling it seems to be a '70's era Mopar/Plymoth Charger/'Cuda/Challenger alternator part number, but none of the sites I went to will tell me if it is internally regulated or externally regulated.

The alternator has a 7/16 bolt for BATT at about the 2 o'clock position and two FLD spade connectors at the 12 o'clock position(and who knows this may be upside down.

This is currently on my MF35 and has not been wired in at least 15 years, we just put the charger on every few weeks to keep battery topped off. This tractor still has the black regulator box on it, but I don't recall seeing it hooked up when it did work. My question mainly is does this alternator need a external regulator or is it built in? Would I be better off ditching this one and using the 1 wire or other popular alternator setup for my tractors conversion?

I asked this in the general repair parts thread in hopes of someone knowing a thing or two about conversion and hacked together ingenuity.

Thanks!

 

[ThomasH]

Yes, that is a Mopar 1972 60 amp alternator. It takes an external regulator. Purchase a 1970 or newer transistorized regulator (Chrysler #4111990) and its self-mating connector (Chrysler #2983727). These are available at all auto parts stores.

If there was not connections on the field terminals the existing alternator would not have worked.

The 1970 design monitored the (+) field voltage and open/closed the (-) ground field as needed to maintain a steady voltage. To identify the (+) field circuit and (-) field circuit terminals on the alternator, look at the back of the alternator and put the "BATT" terminal at the 12 o'clock position. The two "FLD" terminals would appear as though they were at approximately the 10 o'clock and 11 o'clock positions. The terminal at 10 o'clock would be the (-) field circuit and 11 o'clock would be the (+) field circuit.

See the diagram at Mopar Charging System - MyMopar.com for a diagram, it's pretty simple.

Good luck!

 

[flusher]

I'd ditch that old alternator and get an internally-regulated 60 amp Delco 10SI alternator (about $50 for a rebuilt at NAPA).

 

[jclaudii]

Thanks yall, I think I will end up ditching this alternator as I have not been around the external regulators as much and the wiring is so simple for the newer internally regulated like the 10si. In fact, I may have a brand new one sitting on a shelf at the farm shop that my dad was planning on putting on the silly tractor. Either way, I appreciate the feedback and I'll wait to rewire the charging system after I get a different alternator. I had to rewire the starter switch and found all the old wires for the Amp meter were super dry and cracked easily so I cut all that out for safety reasons and I'll wire in a voltage gauge when I do the swap.

My other question is, would a smaller diameter Alternator pulley be "better" than the stock one on say a 10si so the idling RPMs of the tractor can get the alternator charging? I've heard of people just goosing the throttle a bit to get the RPMs up so the alt can start charging. Not sure and I could do trial by error or ask the question and hopefully get it right the first time.

Thanks!

 

[mitch becton]

if you do have an old one their see if you can find a local rebuilder and ask him to check it out and install transpo part number d10ac this regulator kit is tapped onto the rectifier in the alternator which means it will start charging at as low as 300 rpm and there is also a smaller than o/e pulley he can get that will surely have it charging at low rpm as you already know the smaller the pulley the quicker the alternator will charge good luck post back how it does

 

[Soundguy]

I'd for sure not buy a reg for that old of alternator.

1, you don't know if it works.

if it DOES work.. it may quit 10 seconds after the test is donew.. then you have a reg and bad alt.

a delco 10si alt can be had for 28$ at carquest and other auto stores.. and that's wehere your old alt will be worth something.. as the 15-20$ core charge return...

I'd get the common 3 wire delco and never look back.

jump #2 tot he charge stud.. adn run #1 thru a 194 lamp element to the same wire off the key that feeds the ignition coil.. if it's a diesel.. finagle a lil wireing with an oil pressure switch.. accy terminal onthe key.. or a momentary juice off the headlamps...

 

[Rickcintron]

That sounds to me like a late 70s early 80s GM alternator two wire which will work but I find that if you buy a single wire GM alternator with a single post on back power wire and a single spade connector at 12 o'clock on top that will run back to power side of battery and you can run a smaller wire up to gauge to show charging state,connect power feed to power feed stud then connect off male spade post to charge light and ignition feed and you should have no issues with that set up and work fine on your machine!

 

[imabass]

If you get the standard GM 3 wire (2 wire clip and 1 wire charging lug), as stated above about jumping # 2 (larger gauge wire) to the stud, then the other to a switch on dash. 3 wire alt is typically half the price or the 1 wire.

My old diesel does only has a push button starter and fuel lever to shut it off. I think the #1 wire of the Gm alt can be run to the push button because I believe that the alt only needs juice to get it started charging. After it starts then it should be good.

I have a 3 wire alt hooked up to a 6.5hp side shaft engine that I use as a electrolysis machine as well as a remote battery charger in the field.

 

[Soundguy]

man what an echo..