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12-07-2012, 10:52 AM #11Elite Member
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- Jun 2008
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- 4,735
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- Bismarck Arkansas
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- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
Re: Can this be straightened with a frame machine?
It looks like the only part that is bent is the angle between the attachment points. If you have the equipment and skills, I would just cut that angle off and replace it with a piece of heavy tubing and put a full penetration weld on it. It will be stronger than original and take less time than trying to straighten. Sometimes (most time) bent and twisted pieces like that are easier and cheaper to just replace than straighten.
I would cut it as close to the attachment uprights as possible. Weld a flat plate of 3/8" thick steel large enough to accomodate the size of the tubing you will be using to the angle with full pen weld on both sides. Attach it back to the loader arms and cut a replacement piece to fit and weld it in place as much as possible therefore assuring perfect alignment. Remove it and finish welding any area that you couldnt weld in place. This would save the effort of building a jig to hold it on position when welding.2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 54" John Deere 332 lawn tractor, 5.5HP rear tined walk behind tiller, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp CC/CV AC/DC welding machine and a shop full of tools that I spend more time looking for than using.
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12-07-2012, 10:56 AM #12Elite Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2002
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- 3,369
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- western,pa.
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- John Deere 850/Kioti DK 35 with top and tilt, kl1450 fel with quick detach bucket
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12-07-2012, 11:24 AM #13Super Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
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- 6,758
- Location
- VA
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- JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500
Re: Can this be straightened with a frame machine?
This side of 40
JD2010, Kubota L3450/FEL w SK QC, L2550 w FEL
Mahindra 7520 [Pinky] /FEL w Skid Steer QC/w Tilt Tatch & BH, BX1500 [Mighty Mouse]
IH37 Baler, Hesston Haybine, JD Rake
Bushog, Flail,
SK Tilt Tatch
, KK tiller, Rhino rear blade, Post driver, post auger, chipper, pallet fork, Grapple/Loader Buddy, Homemade Splitter/DC Welder
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12-23-2012, 06:12 AM #14Platinum Member
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- Nov 2003
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- 927
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- Theresa, NY
- Tractor
- NH2120 RTV500 Bobcat S250
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12-23-2012, 08:27 AM #15Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2012
- Posts
- 37
- Location
- Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040
Re: Can this be straightened with a frame machine?
You can fix it in a couple of ways but remember a couple of metallurgical facts.
Bend a metal clothes hanger and then try to straighten it out where it is bent. Impossible. The bending "work hardens" the metal and makes it much stronger. The circus strong man trick where he would bend a metal rod and then challenge anyone in the crowd to straighten it is an demonstration of this phenomenon. You can bend it reasonable straight when it is cold but you are bending beside the original bend unless you resort to serious heating.
When the metal bends it stretches and becomes a little thinner so when you straighten the piece it may be longer when you are done thus distorting the position of the two ends a little.
Replacing the bent piece should be easy since you can attach the two ends to wherever they affix and then weld a new piece between them so you don't have to worry about getting things properly aligned by building jigs.
Just a couple of thoughts from an old engineer :-)
Dave M7040
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12-23-2012, 09:29 AM #16Elite Member
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- Dec 2007
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- 3,522
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- Ohio
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- JD 5520, 790 TLB-- Kub L4300, B7800, MX5100
Re: Can this be straightened with a frame machine?
A good welding and fabrication shop should have that straight again with zero problems. You should see the stuff I bring into my shop in town here. I can bend 3/8" and 1/2" plate with the best of them and they keep un-bending it.
******
Don't sweat the small stuff...
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12-23-2012, 10:33 AM #17Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
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- 1,312
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- W.Mass
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- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
Another vote for replacing the piece. I wonder if it really should be stronger? Might be good to have it as the weak link? All it's for is aligning the two clamps, right? Tho I bet you won't hang anything heavy on it again...
Jim"Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly" Mae West
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