Re: Making oval holes round.

**k0ua** · 01-03-2013, 10:58 AM

Originally Posted by orezok

OK, here's my plan thanks to several of you. I'm going to round up the hole first with a step drill. I've ordered a 5/8" bridge reamer to complete the process. Finally, I'm going to weld in some shims per the attached to take the load off the pin. This should result in a permanent fix.

I am not saying your plan is not a good one, but I am just asking a question. If the added shims are going to bear the load front and back and keep from egging out the hole, and it looks like they might do just that... then why bother with repairing the existing hole to start with? I know you wanted to go to a 5/8 pin, but if the 1/2 inch pin is just now holding the shank from falling out, and the shank is now in a "cramp" with the shims and cannot move forward or backward... I was just wondering why?.. Not saying not to do it, just wondering...

James K0UA

**orezok** · 01-03-2013, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by k0ua

I am not saying your plan is not a good one, but I am just asking a question. If the added shims are going to bear the load front and back and keep from egging out the hole, and it looks like they might do just that... then why bother with repairing the existing hole to start with? I know you wanted to go to a 5/8 pin, but if the 1/2 inch pin is just now holding the shank from falling out, and the shank is now in a "cramp" with the shims and cannot move forward or backward... I was just wondering why?.. Not saying not to do it, just wondering...

James K0UA

Because I'm retired and NEED something to fill the time!

What better than working on my tractor.

**k0ua** · 01-03-2013, 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by orezok

Because I'm retired and NEED something to fill the time!

What better than working on my tractor.

Got it!

**zzvyb6** · 01-03-2013, 11:51 AM

What I generally do is use a 1/2" od pipe inserted into the original hole location. Then fill the gaps with weldment and drill out the pipe (which is round so the drill doesn't buck).

**Guesseral** · 01-03-2013, 12:11 PM

Originally Posted by k0ua

I am not saying your plan is not a good one, but I am just asking a question. If the added shims are going to bear the load front and back and keep from egging out the hole, and it looks like they might do just that... then why bother with repairing the existing hole to start with? I know you wanted to go to a 5/8 pin, but if the 1/2 inch pin is just now holding the shank from falling out, and the shank is now in a "cramp" with the shims and cannot move forward or backward... I was just wondering why?.. Not saying not to do it, just wondering...

James K0UA

Thanks for asking that question, so I didn't have to! Boy did I like the answer!

**City Farmer** · 01-07-2013, 05:16 AM

I would ink it up, take a circle template and scribe your 5/8 hole. Then take a die grinder and a burr or grinding wheel and grind it to a circle again. I'm thinking 5-10 minutes per hole and it will be perfect. You could leave it a little heavy and finish it with the drill bit but I'd probably just finish it with the grinder. Location should be good enough too because its wore the same on both sides. If you don't have a die grinder then use a drill with a grinding wheel in it and finish it with the drill bit.

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