LA120 Drip, drip, drip and lime-scale/calcium

[Neo]

Hi Gents,

I recently picked up a JD LA120 (With a B&S CV23) on the cheap and I'm slowly restoring it. I notice there was a lot of tacky dirt on one side of the engine so when I cleaned it all up and ran the engine for a short time oil started to drip from one of the sump bolts. But this only happens while the engine is off and cooling. I tried tightening the bolt and the two either side of it. It drips a bit slower now but it's still going. So before I remove the engine and split the case I was wondering if anyone had any good tips I could try to stop this oil leak?





I also have a 21HP Kohler Command which I'm rebuilding and I just bought a second hand block (non working engine) for that. The owner had already split the case but then left it all in the rain. There's some mild surface rust in one cylinders but I am more concern with how I can clean off all the lime-scale/calcium that's covering all if the outer case and cooling fins.....any ideas anyone? .... is this something I need to blast of?



Many thanks.
Neo

[kensnelling]

On your B&S engine sometimes you can stop the leak by putting a sealing washer on the bolt. It that doesn't do it you'll need to reseal the case.

On the Kohler try the lime scale removers they sell for cleaning plumbing fixtures. Small items I just soak in the stuff, larger items I keep wetted with the CLR (calcium. lime, rust) remover for 30 minutes or so before I rinse and dry, then repeat as needed. Doesn't get it as clean as bead blasting, but with bead blasting if you don't get ALL the residue out of the inside of the case you can eat up your cranKshaft and rod quickly from the debris.

Ken

[Neo]

Thanks Ken,

A "sealing washer" is that like the soft aluminium or a copper washers that's used on oil drain plugs?


All the best.
Neo

[Don87]

Thanks Ken,

A "sealing washer" is that like the soft aluminium or a copper washers that's used on oil drain plugs?


All the best.
Neo

I'm sure that's what he is talking about. Similar to the one in the pic of the bolt that is leaking............looks like a copper washer in there now.

[Neo]

I'm sure that's what he is talking about. Similar to the one in the pic of the bolt that is leaking............looks like a copper washer in there now.

No it's the red oil thats making it look like copper. I think it's a normal washer.... Silly question but where do I buy sealing washers?


All the best.
Neo.

[Neo]

Ordered the sealing washer and ended up brushing off the engine with hand brushes and pipe cleaner brushes and then gave it all a coat of WD40.

Here's the end result.... I think it's looking better?.... well good enough either way lol!

All the best.
Neo

[kensnelling]

Sorry I missed your question a few days ago, but yes, an aluminum, copper, or rubber coated metal washer like on a drain plug is what I was referring to.

Good job on the engine cleanup. Looks a lot better than in your earlier photos.

Ken

[Neo]

Thanks Ken.

I'll post back when I fitted the Copper compression Sealing washer.

All the best.
Neo

[jinman]

Neo, I don't think the sealing washer will stop your leak. The bolt hole will just fill up with oil and then it will run out at the top around the gasket for the sump. Currently, the oil is leaking around the gasket and running down the bolt to the head. If you seal the head, the oil will just fill the void around the bolt and leak at the joint.

I've had a similar problem on a older B&S engine. It got bad enough that I removed the engine and split it apart. The gasket was broken is about 5 places. It was thin material and vibration seemed to cause the bolts to loosen and then movement of the sump and engine block completely destroyed the gasket. After replacing the gasket and torquing the bolts with new washers, the problem never came back. I think if your engine is just seeping a tiny bit, I'd tolerate it until it got worse. It's a lot of work to remove and split an engine for a tiny leak like that. I can see that it is wetting the frame under the engine, but can't tell how bad the leak is because you've cleaned the area so well.

[Gary Fowler]

Hi Gents,

I recently picked up a JD LA120 (With a B&S CV23) on the cheap and I'm slowly restoring it. I notice there was a lot of tacky dirt on one side of the engine so when I cleaned it all up and ran the engine for a short time oil started to drip from one of the sump bolts. But this only happens while the engine is off and cooling. I tried tightening the bolt and the two either side of it. It drips a bit slower now but it's still going. So before I remove the engine and split the case I was wondering if anyone had any good tips I could try to stop this oil leak?





I also have a 21HP Kohler Command which I'm rebuilding and I just bought a second hand block (non working engine) for that. The owner had already split the case but then left it all in the rain. There's some mild surface rust in one cylinders but I am more concern with how I can clean off all the lime-scale/calcium that's covering all if the outer case and cooling fins.....any ideas anyone? .... is this something I need to blast of?



Many thanks.
Neo

That white powder residue is not calcium, it is aluminum oxide (rust) and will get on any aluminum when exposed to the right weather conditions. I get it on my boat after salt water exposure even after thoroughly washing it down. It takes several months of inactivity to show up but it will. Most old aluminum engine show some oxidation when left to set for months. Doesnt really hurt that much as it is just surface but will cause some pitting if left. Thoroughly wash with water, brush with stainless or brass bristle brush, dry and put a light oil/wax coating on it.