Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 11,998
- Location
- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
I have a Craftsman 30 gallon oilfree compressor with what is stamped 5.5 HP motor. The air pressure switch started leaking so yesterday I went to Sears to price a new switch. I had priced it online at $129 not including shipping or tax charges. The Sears guy knew it was expensive so when I told him it was a 1998 year model he suggested to just replace it. A high volume one of about 11.2 CFM @90 PSI with 30 gal tank would be $599 so I decided to check the F&R store Atwoods right down the street. They had a 220v one with 13.5 or so CFM with 60 gallon tank for $469 (Magnum Force made in China) and the salesman wasnt real happy with Atwoods decision to drop the Puma brand and go with Magnum Force. Anyway while looking for parts need to hook up a 220v compressor, I mentioned that all my current one needed was pressure switch but Sears want over $130 for one. He said we have pressure switches for compressors. We checked it out and they had a Magnum force brand and a Square D brand and the price was outrageously CHEAP @ 19 bucks including tax. I figured what the heck for less than $20 I will give it a look.
Today I removed the old switch and started looking at what I would need to put the new one on. The Old Sears had 4 each 1/4" NPT female outlet plus the 1/8" tubing connection for the pressure sensor. The new one had ONE each 1/4" NPT + the 1/8" tubing fitting. I decided that I needed to buy 2 tees and a nipple to make it work which would give me the 4 outlets, but I ended up needing 3 tees and 3 nipple and used the old original nipple to boot to make it work. When finally, after 2 trips to the hardware store and $10 worth of parts, I got it all put together, it worked perfectly. The switch cut off at exactly 130 PSI as it was supposed to. So in the end< I saved $110 by not using the sears switch. There is absolutely no reason for them to charge 110 bucks more for a pressure control switch than a standard aftermarket one.
Today I removed the old switch and started looking at what I would need to put the new one on. The Old Sears had 4 each 1/4" NPT female outlet plus the 1/8" tubing connection for the pressure sensor. The new one had ONE each 1/4" NPT + the 1/8" tubing fitting. I decided that I needed to buy 2 tees and a nipple to make it work which would give me the 4 outlets, but I ended up needing 3 tees and 3 nipple and used the old original nipple to boot to make it work. When finally, after 2 trips to the hardware store and $10 worth of parts, I got it all put together, it worked perfectly. The switch cut off at exactly 130 PSI as it was supposed to. So in the end< I saved $110 by not using the sears switch. There is absolutely no reason for them to charge 110 bucks more for a pressure control switch than a standard aftermarket one.