Supports for removing loader frame

[curz]

Hi folks,

After lurking here for quite a while to help me decide what I kind of tractor I needed, I finally bought a fix'r upper. I primarily need the loader for clearing some brush piles on our new property in Catlett, Virginia. I'm a former auto mechanic turned software programmer with a small home machine shop, so I'm hoping to be able to do most of the work myself.

I've acquired a "new to me" tractor. The tractor in question is a 1972 (or so I'm told) Deere 301 industrial with a diesel 2.5L, FEL, 3PT and PTO. It seems to have a solid engine and gearbox, but the hydraulics are weak and there's an issue that I could use some help with.

The previous owner had the tractor for 15 years and in the last few has been loosening the bolts which hold the front sub-frame to the engine. There are 6 bolts that hold the sub-frame to the engine - deere calls it the front support -- AT24986 is the part number. The PO finally took it to Deere after stripping some threads and they installed some thread inserts ($2500.00!). Those lasted about 6 months before pulling out again. He gave up and sold the tractor cheap. I haven't split the sub-frame from the engine yet, so I can't tell you if the inserts just came out or if they took the new threads with them.

I've ordered a workshop manual from Deere, but in the mean time, I've been looking at the pictures on the deereparts site. I can't be certain, but it looks like there may be a couple of missing steel plates that go between the rear boss of the engine to the front sub-frame. Part numbers T21653 and T21654. If this is the case, it would explain why the bolts are pulling out. I'll try to get a picture of where I think they'd go today.

My main question at this stage is what help will be needed to get the loader frame, then front support sub-frame safely off the tractor. I'm thinking that a gantry or A-frame with some chain hoists might be the ticket, but I'd be interested in how others handle the weight of the loader and frame. I've got an engine hoist, but I don't think it has enough reach for this job.

I've added a picture of the new toy in front of my workshop.

Thanks in advance,

Curz

 

[puckgrinder85]

I would take a look at most modern loaders as they are meant as quick detaching, for some ideas on how to go about it. They basically use the bucket for weight and either have stand that you have to insert or use part of the loader to hit the ground and take the weight of the rest of the unit. If you want to go really cheap i'd think maybe a couple 4x4's or some lumber of sorts and just support under where the loader lift cylinder meets the loader arm. This is going to vary as I dont know how heavy your subrame part is and it may very well be too heavy, but its the cheap alternative if you dont have every tool at your disposal. Just an idea.


ps- that subrame looks pretty beefy, dunno if that would work out as its basically a see-saw once you dismount it from the tractor.

 

[DJ54]

I have a gantry type deal Dad made to take the loader off the Farmall 656. If I get a chance, I'll take a pic., and maybe give you some ideas. A couple come-a-longs to remove, and install. Hangs on chains, until it's ready to go back on. And it also breaks down, for when not in use. Nothing fancy, but it works great...

 

[curz]

Thanks for the reply. Removing the loader arms and cylinders and blocking them up makes sense and would make it much easier to deal with the two loader frame rails. Can I cap off the ports coming from the valve to the lift/dump cylinders so that I could leave the loader outside and drive the tractor into the shop or do I need to run hoses in place of the existing cylinder hoses so the fluid circles back to the loader valve? I don't have much experience in hydraulics.

 

[curz]

DJ54 - I'd like to see the pix of your gantry. It would be a great addition to the shop.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day you can cap the hyd lines on the cyl side of the valve that will be ok as there is no pressure until you operate the valve. When you go to remove hoses turn tractor off and operate control levers through full range to remove any residual line pressure to stop it from spraying out when you remove lines,



Jon

 

[DABSGT]

Nice tractor good luck with it. My uncle has one only gas. Slow but works well

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[curz]

Banjodunn, Thanks for the info. Your information backs up what I have been reading.

DABSGT, Thanks. Yeah, I think it's going to work out well - once I get the bugs sorted out. For my purposes, slow is better than none - by a long shot.

I am looking into ways of supporting the loader arms once I disconnect them. I'm considering a couple Horrible Freight item #41860 utility stands to support an I beam. Still in the looking and thinking phase of this operation.

 

[D7E]

Banjodunn, Thanks for the info. Your information backs up what I have been reading.

DABSGT, Thanks. Yeah, I think it's going to work out well - once I get the bugs sorted out. For my purposes, slow is better than none - by a long shot.

I am looking into ways of supporting the loader arms once I disconnect them. I'm considering a couple Horrible Freight item #41860 utility stands to support an I beam. Still in the looking and thinking phase of this operation.

A lot of guys hang loaders on chains from a beam in the barn !

 

[DJ54]

Here is a picture of the deal I remove the loader from the Farmall 656. Nothing fancy, but it works.

2 X 2 X 3/16" tubing. You can't see the feet, but 4', 3" X 3/8" angle iron for them. Bolt up gussets to keep it from racking, and tubing unbolts at the top. It's rather tall, because my tractor is a row crop w/38" tires. The loader is an IH 2000 series loader. Not as beefy in the mid section as yours, but probably overall as heavy, as it is rather long framed.

I put a come-a-long at center with a short chain, and a chain around the tops of the uprights on the loader. Then have a couple chains hanging above the uprights for the loader arms ready. Snug the center chain up a bit, unbolt loader brackets, back up a bit, then enough lift to clear the front axle. Put the chains around the uprights, then back all the way out.

There are quick disconnects on the loader, so just plug the hoses back into themselves, to keep them clean.

Works for me...