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  1. #11
    Member schneidvt's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    26
    Location
    Summerfield, NC
    Tractor
    Ford 1500, Kubota 4240, Ingersoll 2014

    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by puckgrinder85 View Post
    I would resufrace the flywheel too if you're putting a clutch in. Might as well do the job complete and do it once the right way.
    Im on the fence right now with resurfacing, it looks in pretty good shape so I think im going to just see how it goes. In my experience with automotive clutches you can do it about twice before you start running into problems with warping and I have no idea how many times this one has been done in the past. This project is on a tight budget to say the least so it'll have to be one of those things to take care of later if it becomes a problem.

    Jason

  2. #12
    Elite Member
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    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by schneidvt View Post
    Im on the fence right now with resurfacing, it looks in pretty good shape so I think im going to just see how it goes. In my experience with automotive clutches you can do it about twice before you start running into problems with warping and I have no idea how many times this one has been done in the past. This project is on a tight budget to say the least so it'll have to be one of those things to take care of later if it becomes a problem.

    Jason
    Generally speaking, if the flywheel is in good shape and isn't warped it'll work fine.
    .

  3. #13
    Silver Member DaButcher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    137
    Location
    TEXAS
    Tractor
    MF165 & Ford 1500

    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    Good deal schneidvt, thanks for the explanation. When I got my 1500 more than twenty years ago it showed nine hundred something and often wandered how many hours were actually on it. I've put about 1300hr on it, so it has at least 2256hr. Wish I could be of help with your clutch job, but haven't had to split mine yet. Pics and any info you post about the clutch job is appreciated.

  4. #14
    Gold Member jones6780's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    308
    Location
    Lizella, Ga.
    Tractor
    Ford 1700 4wheel drive, Yazoo/Kees Max2 Zero Turn

    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    The flywheel is plenty thick and would be hard to warp from heat, it could wear unevenly. If it looked decent, I would take a wood block and some 180 sandpaper to scuff the glaze off it.

    Russell

  5. #15
    Member schneidvt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    26
    Location
    Summerfield, NC
    Tractor
    Ford 1500, Kubota 4240, Ingersoll 2014

    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    Well, ran into my first big snag. The clutch kit I ordered came with the wrong parts included. Hopefully they can resolve this and get me the right parts. Looks like it'll be another couple weeks before I can get this thing back together.
    -img_20130227_133523-jpg-img_20130227_133701-jpg

    Jason

  6. #16
    Member schneidvt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    26
    Location
    Summerfield, NC
    Tractor
    Ford 1500, Kubota 4240, Ingersoll 2014

    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    Also, they are telling me that the clutch disk will operate the same even with the reduced friction area, doesn't sound right to me. Any thoughts on how much this will effect holding power?

    -img_20130227_133548-jpg
    -img_20130227_133602-jpg

    Thanks, Jason

  7. #17
    Platinum Member
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    Oct 2010
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    573
    Location
    WI
    Tractor
    '13 Yanmar Lx4100

    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    We've run into a lot of new ones where the friction material is smaller. I assume a differnt material. Should be a sheet in the clutch kit that explains it. Overall we've had no issues with them holding, just make sure its the right one for your application obviously. If its right for your application then its just one more reason to resurface the flywheel, the clutch disk wont be riding in the same area as the old style plate.

    On the flywheel resurface- You're talking 40$ to resurface a flywheel from a local engine builder, I dont see any good reason NOT to resurface it. I guess being this is my job I tend to do it the right way the first time, because the second time we are losing money. Its the same for new/ resurfaced rotors when installing new pads. I just dont like putting new pads on an old uneven rotor even when the customer doesnt want to resurface them for 15$ a pop. Doing it right the first time is just in my routine, but if you dont have the 40$ to resurface thats fine.

  8. #18
    Platinum Member
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    Oct 2010
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    573
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    WI
    Tractor
    '13 Yanmar Lx4100

    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by MasseyWV View Post
    Generally speaking, if the flywheel is in good shape and isn't warped it'll work fine.


    You have nothing to lose by saying that. If it slips or what have you, he has to split the tractor again. 40$ insurance policy, the cheapest one you'll ever find. I'd be putting all the seals he can as well. Flywheel can look ok and still be warped, it doesnt take a lot.

  9. #19
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    5
    Location
    Snohomish, WA
    Tractor
    Ford 1700

    Default

    I have split my 1700. I need to remove the flywheel. Anyone know how to lock the motor so I can pull the flywheel. It has just 1 2 1/2 inch bolt on the back of it.

  10. #20
    Member schneidvt's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    26
    Location
    Summerfield, NC
    Tractor
    Ford 1500, Kubota 4240, Ingersoll 2014

    Default Re: Ford 1500 Clutch Replacement

    So it took me longer to get back to this project than expected but once again I think I have gotten myself beyond the tools I have availible to me. I was able to remove the flywheel nut but am unable to remove the actual flywheel. I bolted angle iron across the flywheel and tried to tap it off from alternating sides but am a bit weary that ill damage the bottom end bearings if I get too forceful. My current rig is that I modified the old pressure plate to act as a puller and am alternating with penetrating lube and propane torches under tension to get it loose. Am I missing something or should I continue this procedure and hope for the best.

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