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  1. #1
    Silver Member
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    Aug 2005
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    202
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    Eastern KS
    Tractor
    JD 4100 HST CUT w/Yanmar 3TNE74 | JD 300 Lawn

    Default Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    I'm getting a clicking/grinding noise in the front right wheel/axle. The tire locks up also. Axle fluid spilled out as well. It works for a bit, then clicks/locks, then works, etc.

    I have the technical manual, and I'm suspecting a bearing/gear in that area. I got the FEL off last night, and now hoping to tear into it a bit.

    Any suggestions on how to proceed?

  2. #2
    Silver Member
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    JD 4100 HST CUT w/Yanmar 3TNE74 | JD 300 Lawn

    Default Re: Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    Is Deere the only source of parts?

  3. #3
    New Member
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    Sep 2012
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    11
    Location
    ontario
    Tractor
    john deere 790

    Default Re: Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    pretty sure your on the right track. Im not sure but I believe a 41000 is a compact. it a bearing and probably a seal don't run it until this is fixed or it will be a lot more. pretty sure you can get the parts from yanmar a little cheaper

  4. #4
    Silver Member
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    JD 4100 HST CUT w/Yanmar 3TNE74 | JD 300 Lawn

    Default Re: Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    Got it torn apart and found the failed bearing.

    It's part 25 on the front gear case diagram.

    The finion shaft (part 13) dropped right out. Any idea if that is expected? What does clip ring 8 hold? I'm wondering if I should tear into it any further.

    Part 11 is just loose up inside part 14. When I get the new bearing in -- how do I put this back together? Is is jut a matter of tinkering around until the gears line-up and then bolting it back together?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #5
    Silver Member
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    JD 4100 HST CUT w/Yanmar 3TNE74 | JD 300 Lawn

    Default Re: Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    Also - what's a good solvent to clean up all my parts? Gas ok?

  6. #6
    Silver Member
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    JD 4100 HST CUT w/Yanmar 3TNE74 | JD 300 Lawn

    Default Re: Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    Quote Originally Posted by coloradotrout View Post
    Also - what's a good solvent to clean up all my parts? Gas ok?
    outside of course..

  7. #7
    Advertiser kennyd's Avatar
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    Jul 2003
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    12,673
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    Westminster, MD
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    John Deere 4110, 455AWS

    Default Re: Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    Quote Originally Posted by coloradotrout View Post
    Also - what's a good solvent to clean up all my parts? Gas ok?
    Diesel or K1 is MUCH safer!
    KennyD
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  8. #8
    Silver Member
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    JD 4100 HST CUT w/Yanmar 3TNE74 | JD 300 Lawn

    Default Re: Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    Quote Originally Posted by kennyd View Post
    Diesel or K1 is MUCH safer!
    better yet -- since the tractor won't be running on the diesel, I may as well clean with it... and it's nearly equivalent to the price of gas. I guess I could finish up with brake cleaner to get a oil free rinse?

  9. #9
    Silver Member
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    JD 4100 HST CUT w/Yanmar 3TNE74 | JD 300 Lawn

    Default Re: Deere 41000 CUT grinding noise in front right wheel

    Update on what I found -- and did.

    Referencing the parts diagrams I posted above and this short-hand:

    front gear case = FGC
    front spindles and final drive gears = FSFDG

    FGC #25 was bad - 2 balls gone and the metal bracket holding the balls together was broken.

    I removed most of FSFDG and most of FGC (but left #14 attached). I washed out all the parts with diesel, wiped clean, and blew-out with compressed air. I strongly considered replacing FSFDG #6 and #13 (the bearings that hold the axle), but they seemed to be running smooth enough, so I re-used them. I did take them completely out and washed thoroughly. I had the JD dealer look. He thought they were OK.

    I replaced FGC #10, 12, 22, 23, 25 and the gasket (#10) on FSFDG. #25 was the destroyed part, and so I figured it best to replace most of what was in-line with it, especially the #10 bearing at the top. #12 is also where the pinion shaft (#13) rides. #22 and #23 are the oil sleeve and seal, so figured it was a good time to do those.

    Bad #25 had to be pulled out. This -- 3-Jaw Pilot Bearing Puller -- would have been handy, but I got it out another way. The new bearing dropped in with hand pressure. #6 fortunately pulled out with hand/light screwdriver pressure. With it out, I could use that puller to get #7 and #10 out. Later I learned #10 could be pulled out from below, but that means #14 has to be unbolted to get that gear out of the way. I pulled #10 up and out of #14. It took time, and the puller had to be fitted (ground) to work. I bought a set of cheap snap-ring pliers to get #8 out. Again -- I washed out #14 and all the components.

    I used a chisel to cut off #23 (careful not to go too far) and a hacksaw to cut out # 22. Those seals fit very, very tight, and are way more difficult to remove than I expected.

    I assembled by putting together FSFDG #3 to #12 as one unit (I did not take #4 and #5 apart). Then I put all the parts back into FGC #14 (12, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6). #5 stayed intact on #1. I hand pressed #25 into #26, and then #13 into #25. I took that assembly (#26 with 25 and 13) over to #14 and put it up into #14. I pushed it up into place as far as could, nudging the gear (#11) into proper position, and getting #13 to start into #10. I held all that in place and bolted on #1. The only part that concerned me was that I could not tell how engaged #13 was with #10. I was at the mercy of bolting those two assemblies together to "press #13 into #10". Assuming all the spacing is good, they should have joined properly.

    Finally, I put the FSFDG #10 gasket on, and attached the assembly (#3 to #12) to FGC #26.

    I added oil via both covers (FSFDG #7) and the main fill plug (which is on that other diagram I have not referenced here). Just using the main fill plug would take a long time and it would be easy to under-fill.

    So far it seems to work. Time will tell. There was some wear on those meshing gears (#13 and #11), but hopefully they'll last me another 1000 hours or more. Now that I know the procedure, I may open up the other side and replace those leaking sleeve/seals.

    Notes:
    -- that pilot bearing puller from HF is ok. It can do the job, but go easy on it. Also I had to grind it down a bit to fit inside the bearing I was pulling. I comes with the ability to get inside 3/4" ID, but I needed about 5/8". It's soft metal - so go easy, and if you use if a few times, plan on taking advantage of the "lifetime warranty". It did the job and for $17, hard to complain.

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