canucklehead
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2006
- Messages
- 314
- Location
- frozen Canada
- Tractor
- 1979 Ford 1500, Toro 455D 10' mower w/ Renault diesel,
Here is a similar thread someone posted that I found through a search: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...6432-yanmar-f935-rubber-coupler-isolator.html
I posted there, but no replies. I'm wondering if no replies because of the section where the original topic was posted, so I'm asking here hoping to find good info.
After mounting isolator on driveshaft, I went to slide it onto crank pulley. I noticed one of the 3 mounting spots was snug, and the other 2 spots were at least 1/8-3/16" short of touching the pulley. I read about the motor mounts wearing and sagging at the rear. I tried wiggling motor with prybar and it moves but only with the motor mount stretching. It's not sloppy or knocking like worn out car motor mounts that I've replaced. Not to say these aren't worn, I don't know how else to compare it.
So I shimmed a flat washer between the pulley and the isolator, then tightened all 3 bolts. It still looked a bit cocked, almost exactly the same as the pics from the above link I posted. I removed the shims and it is still cocked, maybe worse.
This is the 3rd or 4th isolator replacement (I just bought this F935 from a friend, and he did previous isolator replacements). So is a bit of a wave/wiggle appearance in the isolator normal?
For torque, closest thing i could find was JD general specs indicating M8 10.9 bolt should be 30 ft lbs. I think "10.9" is a grade 8 bolt. the bolt does have that marked on it. so I torqued all 6 of these to 30 ft lbs, and also used blue loctite. Is that correct..? too tight maybe cuz of the rubber?
the driveshaft looks pretty straight but it's hard to tell how perfect it is. when islator goes, driveshaft whips around and takes out rad, and it is expensive. i'd like to make sure this is done right.
THANKS! :thumbsup:
I posted there, but no replies. I'm wondering if no replies because of the section where the original topic was posted, so I'm asking here hoping to find good info.
After mounting isolator on driveshaft, I went to slide it onto crank pulley. I noticed one of the 3 mounting spots was snug, and the other 2 spots were at least 1/8-3/16" short of touching the pulley. I read about the motor mounts wearing and sagging at the rear. I tried wiggling motor with prybar and it moves but only with the motor mount stretching. It's not sloppy or knocking like worn out car motor mounts that I've replaced. Not to say these aren't worn, I don't know how else to compare it.
So I shimmed a flat washer between the pulley and the isolator, then tightened all 3 bolts. It still looked a bit cocked, almost exactly the same as the pics from the above link I posted. I removed the shims and it is still cocked, maybe worse.
This is the 3rd or 4th isolator replacement (I just bought this F935 from a friend, and he did previous isolator replacements). So is a bit of a wave/wiggle appearance in the isolator normal?
For torque, closest thing i could find was JD general specs indicating M8 10.9 bolt should be 30 ft lbs. I think "10.9" is a grade 8 bolt. the bolt does have that marked on it. so I torqued all 6 of these to 30 ft lbs, and also used blue loctite. Is that correct..? too tight maybe cuz of the rubber?
the driveshaft looks pretty straight but it's hard to tell how perfect it is. when islator goes, driveshaft whips around and takes out rad, and it is expensive. i'd like to make sure this is done right.
THANKS! :thumbsup: