NH TC 40D starter issue

[Rafter8]

Started and died after running about 5 seconds three times. 4th time I tried to start it just clicked rapidly. Cleaned battery posts new ends on cables. When starter is attached to tractor cables the bendix engages but won't spin. Had starter checked professionally and it's good. Starter shop said its low current. Where to go next? I have put battery charger on battery and no change

 

[jinman]

Use a hot wire from the big terminal on the starter to the small lead going to the solenoid. If the starter engages and turns over the engine, then there is nothing wrong with your battery terminals. If it does not turn the engine, then you have a problem with your cables (maybe internally) or the battery negative ground lead connection where it attaches to the frame.

If the engine turns over when hot-wired, you have a problem with the key switch or start relay. They are not delivering enough current to the starter solenoid to make it fully engage. Be sure to also check your fuses. Fuse #2 is a common culprit on this model tractor. If it is blown, you will see the PTO light on the dash panel even though the PTO is off.

BTW: You should probably remove the black cowling under the steering wheel (both sides) and inspect for wire damage. Many folks have had rodents set up housekeeping in their tractors and chew wires. Also, remove your instrument panel (two screws) to get to the fuse assembly. Your tractor starting and dying sounds like a bad electrical connection or bad key switch that opened with vibration. That would cause the fuel solenoid to drop out and shut off the engine. Also a bad seat switch will cause the solenoid to drop out. You can easily bypass the seat switch by removing the connector and putting a wire between the two sockets in the connector. That will eliminate the seat switch as a culprit.

 

[Rafter8]

I must have battery ground issue. I did jump across the starter with wire and had same result as when using the key. I will check the ground at frame tomorrow. There can't be a partially open safety switch can there? I would think it would crank and not fire or do nothing, correct?

 

[jinman]

There is no switch or safety in the line when you do that hot wire jumper. Is it possible your starter is binding since you put it back into the tractor? You might remove it and check it without being in the tractor. Another thing you might try is to use a set of jumper cables. Attach the negative terminal to a good ground and the positive terminal to the big lug on the starter. Then try the starter hot wire again. If it does not work, monitor the voltage while trying the start to make sure your battery is not faulty. If you have the right voltage and the starter won't work, then you have to suspect that the starter shop was wrong and you need a new or rebuilt starter. You can buy a new starter for your tractor online for around $125 with no trade-in required. Amazon carries them.

What you have is either a faulty battery, faulty battery leads/connections, or a faulty starter. BTW: at least one person here has found corroded/broken wire inside the insulation. It's rare, but can happen. Using jumper cables should bypass that issue.

Here is your starter on Amazon. It's cheaper than I thought.

 

[Rafter8]

You the man Jim, local case parts pimp wanted to sell me a started and relay. I cleaned all connections AGAIN and put the charger on it and she lit! Still not sure about the battery. How do I cut down on corrosion at the terminals?

 

[jinman]

I don't think there is any cheap solution to corrosion. I bought a battery box and modified my battery shelf to hold it. I then purchased an Optima Red Top battery and have not had a single corrosion or acid leak issue in over 7 years. The Optima is expensive and the similar Odyssey battery even more expensive, but you can say goodbye to most problems. It won't make your starting relay or key switch work any better, but it makes corrosion and acid problems a thing of the past. BTW, there was not room for the top of my battery box, so I use a pice of thick rubber over the box to deflect rain coming through the hood.

 

[Rafter8]

My glow plug light cycles on and off constantly, even while running. Is that the timer on the left hand side of steering wheel under the cover where the relays are? And if so how much does one of those run?. It's not really a problem just annoying

 

[jinman]

Yep, the timer going bad is exactly what causes that. New Holland is charging over $100 for that timer. I suspect they are having a huge price passed on by Shibaura. At any rate, it is highway robbery. Here is a link to Kubota timers on eBay, S81NL, that will work perfectly in your tractor. I keep two of these in my spares.

 

[Qapla]

... It's not really a problem just annoying

Actually, it is a problem. If it continues to "cycle on and off" it will burn the glow plugs and you will find yourself having to also replace them.

 

[Rafter8]

New issue, I changed the timer and when I went to start it, it just clicked like before. I've been using it the past couple of weeks and only once did it act up. I wiggled the terminals and it started. I noticed that once I hit the key and it clicked the dash lights were dim intel I wiggled the key. Sometimes when I turn the key the liters are dim until I wiggle it. Still wont turn over. Can the switch be bad and not sent enough current to start? Frustrated