The splines are a one time deal and serve for alinement only. There is no movement of the shaft in or out. You have a double roller chain that connects to geared sprockets on each of the rodded pieces. Your splined piece comes off the front crank of the engine. Drill and pin it if there is enough room. If not stuff your coupler full of the loctite and bolt everything together-including hooking up the double chain coupler. Any small amount of wear will be to the chain coupler. Length of the overall piece is critical. This is factory on the early 245dt,s. Later ones use something similar to a constant velocity joint instead of the chain and gears.
Need a solution for a worn pto splined shaft/female coupler for KUTBOTA L24DT
- Thread starter NoTractorExpert
- Start date
The splines are a one time deal and serve for alinement only. There is no movement of the shaft in or out. You have a double roller chain that connects to geared sprockets on each of the rodded pieces. Your splined piece comes off the front crank of the engine. Drill and pin it if there is enough room. If not stuff your coupler full of the loctite and bolt everything together-including hooking up the double chain coupler. Any small amount of wear will be to the chain coupler. Length of the overall piece is critical. This is factory on the early 245dt,s. Later ones use something similar to a constant velocity joint instead of the chain and gears.
Soundguy
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i still think the pin will hold.. unless the coupler is very, very thin and has NO teeth engagement left.
I also bet you could shrink it with some weld beads along the od of the coupler too.
I also bet you could shrink it with some weld beads along the od of the coupler too.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Maybe I can suggest a cheap 'n easy idea.
Short length of double braided hydraulic hose with suitable ID, press fit and add clamps to 'lock' the hose on the splines.
(maybe even single braided is sufficient)
I have seen this done by some folks around here and while not pretty it works.
Short length of double braided hydraulic hose with suitable ID, press fit and add clamps to 'lock' the hose on the splines.
(maybe even single braided is sufficient)
I have seen this done by some folks around here and while not pretty it works.
Soundguy
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funny. I have a cone spreader with no gearbox. the 'pto shaft' is just that. a piec eof hyd hose that hooks to the spreader fan and the pto shaft. pto shaft side has a uni round coupler onthe end with a set screw... 
in a hyd pump drive application I'd be woried about the hp needed / clamping force..
in a hyd pump drive application I'd be woried about the hp needed / clamping force..
Tractor Seabee
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A few ideas come to mind: (1) I believe the current mid PTO on Kubota's have an 18 spline output shaft, did you check on that with your dealer to match the size and splines and get the female side coupling W/shaft. The other end can be machined to match the pump end connection. (2) can the PTO output shaft and gear be removed from the housing via a exterior bolted housing, if so it should be easy to get that piece out and into a drill press to drill for pin or to machine it for a standard shaft. (3) how ever you fix it I would use a flex shaft coupling of some sort to connect at the pump end. (4) research 18 spline shafts and couplings on the internet, I found a bunch of stuff, see link below from Grainger. May be a way to find universal parts. I believe 18 spline is actually an industry standard.
Lots of luck on this. It can be frustrating to fix things that are not parts supported anymore. Did you try Messicks one of the TBN support vendors, they seem to be very helpful. My dealer as good as they are the Parts guys are not mechanics so I have to get them to consult with the shop manager as they get stumped a lot.
HUB CITY Precision Splined Hub,.984,Splines 18 - Spline Shafts and Couplings - 15V681|0332-00085 - Grainger Industrial Supply
Ron
Lots of luck on this. It can be frustrating to fix things that are not parts supported anymore. Did you try Messicks one of the TBN support vendors, they seem to be very helpful. My dealer as good as they are the Parts guys are not mechanics so I have to get them to consult with the shop manager as they get stumped a lot.
HUB CITY Precision Splined Hub,.984,Splines 18 - Spline Shafts and Couplings - 15V681|0332-00085 - Grainger Industrial Supply
Ron
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Here's what I would do. First I would try to drill and tap the end of the shaft with the worn splines on it. If you can do that great. (The end of the shaft might be hard from the hardening but the inside should still be soft) Then cut off the coupler at the end of the internal splines and weld a sprocket onto it. Slide the coupler onto the worn out splines as far as it can go and hold it in with a bolt in the hole (3/8 should do the trick) you just drilled and tapped. If the splined shaft sticks out of the coupler just mark it and cut it off. You might have to wait until this point to drill and tap the hole in the shaft. I would cut the splined shaft off with a zip cut wheel in a small angle grinder. When you bolt the coupler on for the last time I would use some JB weld on the worn splines. Next I would fasten a same size sprocket onto the shaft, install a piece of double chain and you should be good to go. There's lots here that I haven't said so if you have any questions let me know and I'll try and help some more.
pmsmechanic
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Looking at your pictures again there might not be room for what I suggested. Is there room for a Lovejoy coupler. http://www.lovejoy-inc.com/ You might even be able to find one with internal splines. Good luck.
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Piloon,
I like that idea. Is there a specific kind of clamp that's proven to work best?
OP
NoTractorExpert
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Haroldy, does that product permanently fasten the shaft to the coupling? It appears similar to locktite or JB Weld...
Thanks for all the suggestions, I'm taking them all into consideration. One thing i did not realize is that I can advance the female coupler forward 1/8 of an inch or so further down the splined PTO Shaft by loosening those allen screws (see photo). That might be enough to grab hold of those good splines. I still haven't gotten my repaired loader mount back yet, so I cannot put it all back together and try anything until that repair is complete. The mount goes on first before the hydraulic pump gets mounted to the frame.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I'm taking them all into consideration. One thing i did not realize is that I can advance the female coupler forward 1/8 of an inch or so further down the splined PTO Shaft by loosening those allen screws (see photo). That might be enough to grab hold of those good splines. I still haven't gotten my repaired loader mount back yet, so I cannot put it all back together and try anything until that repair is complete. The mount goes on first before the hydraulic pump gets mounted to the frame.