Need a solution for a worn pto splined shaft/female coupler for KUTBOTA L24DT

[PILOON]

Piloon,
I like that idea. Is there a specific kind of clamp that's proven to work best?

In less stressed applications a usual screw type works but for driving a pump I'd suggest looking for the type of clamp that uses 2 bolts to tighten 2 half rounds with 'ears'.
If not mistaken some hydraulic hose re-usable fittings use such a clamp system.
I suggested double braided hyd hose for its additional strength but perhaps single braid could do as well.

Taking the technique further, lighter applications such as the crank that rotates a snow blower chute could use a simple tight wire wrap approach.

 

[NoTractorExpert]

Can you post a photo or a link to a photo for the type of clamp you are talking about? I don't think I've ever seen one and am having a tough time envisioning what you are talking about.

 

[spruce Deere]

I would try a piece of four or six braid hydraulic hose with a smaller I.D than the shafts diameter in place of the coupler and hope I would have to beat it on shafts gently with a hammer for a nice interference fit.

Then after I got the shafts all back where they belong, double clamp each end of the hose to shafts with large heavy duty hose screw type clamps or exhaust type clamps, room providing.

A piece of tight fitting hose in that application serves couple different purposes, Helps alleviate bad angles, absorbs vibrations and the best part it is a cheap fix.

At work, we use hydraulic hoses or parts and pieces of for a number of things not just 'hydraulic hoses'. Grab handles, edging, vibration insulation, bump stops and on occasion drive shafts also.

 

[Billy2]

Since shaft is 'worn out' and was not slipping, put it back together, tack weld in couple places to hold in place. Simple solution and if it doesn't work you are no worse off cause it was worn out anyway.

 

[NoTractorExpert]

I understand the directions about fastening the hydraulic hose to the worn shaft, but what about the connection to the others side? Right now I have the female coupler fastened to a round shaft with allen screws. See photos I posted earlier in this thread. I like this idea though, just need to figure out how to fasten to the shaft that powers the pump.

I would try a piece of four or six braid hydraulic hose with a smaller I.D than the shafts diameter in place of the coupler and hope I would have to beat it on shafts gently with a hammer for a nice interference fit.

Then after I got the shafts all back where they belong, double clamp each end of the hose to shafts with large heavy duty hose screw type clamps or exhaust type clamps, room providing.

A piece of tight fitting hose in that application serves couple different purposes, Helps alleviate bad angles, absorbs vibrations and the best part it is a cheap fix.

At work, we use hydraulic hoses or parts and pieces of for a number of things not just 'hydraulic hoses'. Grab handles, edging, vibration insulation, bump stops and on occasion drive shafts also.

 

[NoTractorExpert]

I understand the directions about fastening the hydraulic hose to the worn shaft, but what about the connection to the others side? Right now I have the female coupler fastened to a round shaft with allen screws (and a keyed out cutout to the shaft.). See photos I posted earlier in this thread. I like this idea though, just need to figure out how to fasten to the shaft that powers the pump.

 

[PILOON]

I have seen more than a couple of times the following solution;

Short piece of pipe (2") or tubing with same I.D. as the hose O.D. cut in half lengthwise followed by drilling a 1/4" hole to clamp the hose real tight. Naturally that calls for drilling the shaft.
It works!
Saw that used on crudely constructed log splitter so it proves that hydraulic pumps can be driven that way.

Also if the key way is long enough (say 2") good clamping might just be enough. (not screw driven 'Jubilee' hose clamps)

Good luck!

 

[PILOON]

Since shaft is 'worn out' and was not slipping, put it back together, tack weld in couple places to hold in place. Simple solution and if it doesn't work you are no worse off cause it was worn out anyway.

Welding could destroy the pump seals.
Better bet IMHO would be drill a 3/16" hole thru the sleeve and shaft and use grade 8 bolt/lock nut.
I'd fill the gaps with epoxy B4 fastening the bolt.

 

[stuckmotor]

In less stressed applications a usual screw type works but for driving a pump I'd suggest looking for the type of clamp that uses 2 bolts to tighten 2 half rounds with 'ears'.
If not mistaken some hydraulic hose re-usable fittings use such a clamp system.
I suggested double braided hyd hose for its additional strength but perhaps single braid could do as well.

Taking the technique further, lighter applications such as the crank that rotates a snow blower chute could use a simple tight wire wrap approach.

Thanks, Pyloon!

 

[NoTractorExpert]

All great ideas, especially the hydraulic hose ones - but do you see the first post to this thread and the second of the three photos therein? The PTO shaft is much thicker (even in its worn state) than the smaller shaft that gets connected to the other end of the female coupler i have. The hydraulic hose idea with clamps should solve the problem of the worn shaft, but I am left with the problem of connecting the hydraulic hose to that keyed shaft.

I like the idea of drilling a hole through shaft, but as I mentioned, I don't think I have enough room to get a tool in there with the shaft attached to the tractor. It would likely require that I remove the shaft (which would require almost complete disessembly of the engine). At that point I might as well replace the shaft! Also, I can drill a hole through the fitting, but have been told I can't tap it because the metal is too hard. Could that be true?