tire leaking, no valve? confused.....

[canucklehead]

I have a 1962 IHB414. I think my tires are 13.5-28. The rear tire seemed low so I removed valve cap and it started leaking calcium water. I tried to add air, but it seemed like there was no valve core. I tried to remove valve core but couldn't feel anything at all. I tried to thread in a new valve core but it didn't want to thread in, almost like it was blocked from going in.

I'm wondering if maybe the valve core is pushed in or broken, and just enough that I can't remove it, and the air chuck won't reach it?? Pretty sure these are tubed tires.

Sorry, I know little to nothing about how they valve tubed tires on a tractor. It seems a lot different than other smaller tubed tires that have a valve and core as part of the tube. Hoping I don't have to spend another $300 to get this fixed, like I did the last tire.

thanks for any advice or education.

 

[boggen]

rotate tire, so valve is in 12' oclock position. jack up rear end of tractor, so tire doesn't begin flatting out on at the ground. that should stop calc (salt water basicly) from leak out the valve when ya open it up.

some of the tubes i have...
cap -> valve core -> extension ->larger pipe that actually connects to tube.

you might be able to undo the extension. and just get a replacement for cap-> valve core -> extension.

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normally you can DIY a small pump to remove fluid and then put fluid back into rear tractor tires.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Is the valve positioned at the top of the tire? If not you want reposition and try again. That's all I can think of at the moment.

 

[canucklehead]

It got worse and then better. I had the tractor jacked up overnight and what I thought was the good, repaired tire was also flat this AM. So I was looking at 2 flats. Then it got better. The calcium had rotted away the valve (the valve part that the valve removal tool removes) on that tire so a simple valve threaded out and then replaced, and that tire was good.

The other tire I had to remove the full half valve assembly (the piece that threads on, is about an inch long, and has an o-ring on the end). And when I removed that one, the entire internal valve had eroded to almost nothing. For the moment....Both seem to be holding air.

Great advice on 12 o'clock and getting pressure off tire to stop the fluid spewing out.

This tractor sits WAY more than it gets used. Having observed what the calcium does to metal (salt water is another great description), I will ALWAYS try to make sure I leave the valves set at 12 o'clock when I park the tractor. And all 4 wheels are positioned to have the valves at 12 o'clock at the same time. Hopefully it saves this from happening again, or at least delays it.

 

[DT86]

Having all four valve stems in unison now won't mean jack after you use the tractor a while.

 

[bcp]

Unless you are jacking up the tractor and rotating the wheels when you leave it for a long time, they won't be in the same place as each other after you drive the tractor a bit.

Bruce

 

[canucklehead]

I have a backhoe attachment so not too difficult to lift and rotate tires. I could see what you mean with a bit of skid steer etc..

 

[DT86]

Two weeks ago I had to put a plug in one of my rear tires due to a very small leak. It still leaks but only when the plug is near the ground due to side wall deflection.

The problem is not getting the plug to where it doesn't leak while parked, the problem is REMEMBERING to put the plug to the top where it doesn't leak while parked.

 

[canucklehead]

It must not be tubed if you were able to plug it?

 

[mikehaugen]

Even if you park it with the valve up, the stem will still be full of liquid. You would have to give it a shot of air to get the liquid out after it is in the 12 o'clock position. Seems like a lot of hassle to me.