Can I test a solenoid successfully with a multimeter? procedure?

[broken111]

The solenoid valve for my PTO is blowing the 10A fuses as quick as I can put them in.
I ran new jumper wires to the solenoid and put in a 10A fuseable link, and the fuse still

burns out with a "pop". Is there a way to check the solenoid with a multimeter? Here is an
image of what the solenoid looks like.
https://www.leetransport.net/Parts/detail.asp?prod=3351
I cannot paste the pic, the pic is at the link. Thank you for any help.

 

[RickB]

Check resistance between the two pins or sockets in the connector. Anything approaching zero ohms means a dead short and blown fuses. Without knowing the spec of that particular solenoid, I'd expect a good one to have a resistance value of 15-30 ohms.

 

[Texasmark]

+1...............

 

[J_J]

A 12v solenoid with 4 A draw, will have a resistance of 3 ohms.

If you are blowing a 10 A fuse, then the ohms will be 1.2 ohms or less.

You could test a similar solenoid to compare.

You also have an inrush amps and holding amps.

Inrush amps could be 4 to 10 times the holding current.

12v Dc Hydraulic Solenoid Valves | Products & Suppliers on GlobalSpec

 

[Xfaxman]

The wire at the switch may be shorted to ground, where did you hook the new jumper wires?

 

[PILOON]

Dis connect the solenoid. Using jumpers from a 12V source make temporary contacts and you should hear click clack if the unit is OK.
Most will use frame ground for the negative so merely connecting pos to the coil will 'make 'r go'.
Solenoids being spring loaded always 'click clack' when OK.

 

[Topher265]

Good suggestions and questions so far. Below is a bit of a "walkthrough" on how to test it.

The solenoid is basically an electromagnet that when powered through the two wires going to it (one power, one ground) moves a shaft.

Here's how I would test it:

1. Run a new ground wire to it
2. Run a new power wire to a 10A fuse holder
3. Run a new wire from the fuse holder to the power for the solenoid. (you can also install a switch in this wire if desired)

If you run these wires and it's still blowing the fuse, then the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced. In that case, the wires inside the solenoid that make the magnetic field ("coil wires") have shorted and they aren't creating enough resistance (or enough magnetic field).

If the fuse doesn't blow, then test the power supply and the ground path circuits independently using your known good wires. Hook the stock power supply wires to the solenoid, but keep your new good ground wire connected. Now, if the fuse blows the problem is between the power source and the solenoid. If it doesn't blow, then the power supply side is fine and the ground path is bad. To confirm, just test the other side which should remain functional.

 

[broken111]

Xfaxman, I ran totally new wires to the solenoid from the battery, hot and ground, without a fuse it kicked the PTO in, I started worrying about an overload and burnt
tractor so I tested the same wires after putting in a fuse, fuse blows quickly. After all of the excellent help here, I am convinced it is the solenoid. I am going to ohm it out
around lunch time. I'll post results

Thank you all very much for the great responses, and help.

 

[broken111]

JJ, I Tested with the ohm meter set at "200" the reading was .7
I am no electrician, and i do not play one on TV.

So it looks like the solenoid is bad after all. What are the chances the "pigtail" is causint the problem?

Thank you guys!

 

[RickB]

So it looks like the solenoid is bad after all. What are the chances the "pigtail" is causint the problem?

Thank you guys!

Between slim and none.