Tz22da New Holland Rear 4x4 PTO Replacement, what did I do wrong?

[grtractor]

Tz22da New Holland Rear 4x4 PTO Seal Replacement, what did I do wrong?

Have a 2006 TZ22DA New Holland Tractor. Purchased used with 300 Hours. When purchased noticed the 4X4 Hydraulic Rear PTO(that drives the 4x4 shaft to front wheels) was leaking at seal. So after I done a hydraulic/hydrostat change when first purchased leak didn't go away. Have about 315 on it now and thought I would try to change the Rear PTO Seal. Drained about a gallon of fluid from lower HST bolt and took off old seal. Put new seal in. Prior to putting seal on, placed extremely small amount of petroleum jelly on the outer and inner diameter of seal-as I read on forum its recommend. Put fluid back in and as soon as I placed at full mark, I noticed about a 6 inch puddle from the fluid flowing from seal I just replaced. Now leaking worst then before. What did I do wrong any Ideas? The tractor runs great, beside the leak. New to tractors, but somewhat mechanically inclined. Dealer wanted $300 to fix, so thought I would try to do self, part was $11 and time was free. I drained gallon of fluid out, so more fluid didn't drain out of the seal area.

Some ideas thought I may of done wrong:
1. Maybe should of put grease or petroleum Jelly everywhere inside/inner outside of seal seal. Noticed that new seal has more of a cylindrical grove on outside then on seal before the seal rubber touches shaft on outside, maybe I can put grease there.
2. Area to get to seal in was hard to get to, stuff in the way. Got the seal in flush, but not easy. Couple very small dents outside on the middle on ring on seal, but dent not on rubber area. Not that bad.
3. Maybe I should have replaced the sleeve to, although looked really good.
4. Saw some forums say the seal could of got rolled, due to bad spring. Some forums mentioned since this new holland seal was single, should get an aftermarket 2 seal style.


Here are some pictures, the illustrations shows the seal I'm mentioning, no.2 (SBA050209122)

Thanks
View attachment SideBySide.pdf

 

[pmsmechanic]

A couple of things come to mind. I've had parts handed to me that were in the right box but the wrong size. Does the seal fit on the sleeve tight enough to seal the oil? IS the seal leaking or is the oil coming out between the sleeve and the shaft? Probably not but it's also a possibility. I noticed on the last picture bits of paint etc on the sleeve. This paint should all come off before you install a new seal as it can scar the sealing surface of the seal. This is most likely the reason your new seal is leaking. Just use a bit of emery cloth or sand paper to clean the sleeve off and install a new seal. The second time should go faster as you've had the practice of doing it once already.

 

[PsRumors]

I had the same seal go bad on my TZ25. I would get the dimensions off the stock seal which is a single lip seal and cross reference that to a double lip seal.

And like stated above, make sure everything is as clean and smooth as possible.

 

[RickB]

If you have dents in the new installed seal it is damaged and the seal surface won't be perpendicular to the shaft axis. That means it will leak. Buy another seal and learn to install it properly, squarely, and without damaging it.

 

[Coyote machine]

Once you've removed all paint and debris from the collar/sleeve area use compressed air and Brakleen to dry the area and remove any emory cloth grit, etc. Then put a light coat of grease at the shaft/sleeve interface and get the new seal centered and installed correctly. Maybe you can find a piece of pipe that is able to fit over the PTO shaft that can be used to tap the seal into place without damaging it?

 

[grtractor]

Thanks for the responses! I don't believe the area the seal sits on shaft sleeve had any paint on it, due to fluid removing thin coat of paint over time. I put extremely small amount of petrolem jelly on the inner hole opening, not even noticeable. Would putting a thick amount of grease in the grove you see were sleeve and seal meet stop the leak. Were seal and shaft meet is not in noticeable grove, but in that area but in the back/inner side of seal. Notice some videos were they put a huge amount of grease in back side of seal and I have none. The pictures show the original seal, seal out, new seal and new seal with leak.
Thanks!

 

[pmsmechanic]

Thanks for the responses! I don't believe the area the seal sits on shaft sleeve had any paint on it, due to fluid removing thin coat of paint over time. I put extremely small amount of petrolem jelly on the inner hole opening, not even noticeable. Would putting a thick amount of grease in the grove you see were sleeve and seal meet stop the leak. Were seal and shaft meet is not in noticeable grove, but in that area but in the back/inner side of seal. Notice some videos were they put a huge amount of grease in back side of seal and I have none. The pictures show the original seal, seal out, new seal and new seal with leak.
Thanks!

The point isn't that the seal sits on where the paint is. The point is that the seal has to slide over the paint on the sleeve to get to where it sits. That will damage the seal which is why you need to clean the whole sleeve off.

I had a good close look at the picture the second time and I believe the seal is the wrong one. If you look at the first picture and compare it with the last one you can see that the new seal isn't even touching the sleeve. That's why I asked you if the seal was a tight fit on the sleeve in my first post. Maybe there is an upgraded sleeve that is larger in size that needs to go along with this seal.

When I replace seals I always fill the groove in the seal up with grease. That way there is some initial lubrication there. Petroleum jelly works quite fine too.

I never worry about a few small dents in the metal part of the seal as long as the area that holds the rubber center doesn't get distorted. I've even drilled holes in the metal part of the seal to pull the seal out using a slide hammer. After reinstalling the seal I just close up the drilled holes with some automotive type silicone. Obviously a person prefers to install a seal without dents but sometimes in tight places that is just about impossible.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Thanks for the responses! I don't believe the area the seal sits on shaft sleeve had any paint on it, due to fluid removing thin coat of paint over time. I put extremely small amount of petrolem jelly on the inner hole opening, not even noticeable. Would putting a thick amount of grease in the grove you see were sleeve and seal meet stop the leak. Were seal and shaft meet is not in noticeable grove, but in that area but in the back/inner side of seal. Notice some videos were they put a huge amount of grease in back side of seal and I have none. The pictures show the original seal, seal out, new seal and new seal with leak.
Thanks!

The point isn't that the seal sits on where the paint is. The point is that the seal has to slide over the paint on the sleeve to get to where it sits. That will damage the seal which is why you need to clean the whole sleeve off.

I had a good close look at the picture the second time and I believe the seal is the wrong one. If you look at the first picture and compare it with the last one you can see that the new seal isn't even touching the sleeve. That's why I asked you if the seal was a tight fit on the sleeve in my first post. Maybe there is an upgraded sleeve that is larger in size that needs to go along with this seal.

When I replace seals I always fill the groove in the seal up with grease. That way there is some initial lubrication there. Petroleum jelly works quite fine too.

I never worry about a few small dents in the metal part of the seal as long as the area that holds the rubber center doesn't get distorted. I've even drilled holes in the metal part of the seal to pull the seal out using a slide hammer. After reinstalling the seal I just close up the drilled holes with some automotive type silicone. Obviously a person prefers to install a seal without dents but sometimes in tight places that is just about impossible.

 

[grtractor]

Thanks PMS Mechanic. I plan on calling the dealer tomorrow to see if there is a new sleeve size. It seems as if it went on tight enough. I did notice the bigger gap as well. Thought old one may be worn or got weak, filling gap. I found a picture that shows a cross section of one side of a similar seal. You can see why you see a gap as the seal connects within inside of housing. If I can get to it tomorrow, I plan wiping it all down and on put a bead of petroleum jelly or high temperature grease inside the noticeable gap. The easy part is putting the hydraulic fluid in. If it drains out in drains into a new plastic container I have siting underneath. I Think the true fix is to put a double lip seal on that PsRumors recommended. Can't believe there is only a single seal from the factory originally.

 

[Samuellm]

I slip them over the rough stuff using a small plastic bag as a "condom" for the shaft just make sure that when you pull it off get all of the bag.